crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
According to this link, the connector is indeed the difference.
40222 - bare wire
40223 - packard connector
Facet Duralift #40223
- Thread starter mikeboggess
- Start date
According to this link, the connector is indeed the difference.
40222 - bare wire
40223 - packard connector
mikeboggess
Full Access Member
OK, turned out AfterMark is not far from where I live and was able to pick up the fuel pump 40223 Facet Dura-lift. Thanks for the info.
idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
#40222 is in stock in SoCal -- another aviation source that I'll probably go with, when I eventually get mine. Just throwing it out there.
Agreeing with Gary: the pool of knowledge here is awesome!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/solidstatepump2.php
Agreeing with Gary: the pool of knowledge here is awesome!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/solidstatepump2.php
mikeboggess
Full Access Member
This site is indeed the most helpful and has the most knowledgeable helpful folks. Turned out that AfterMark is not far from where I live so I was able to go pick the pump up. Now I will get all the required accessories then (gulp) put that sucker on. I will try to save pics and thoughts as I go along. Thank you all again.
I thought the DB2 was specced for similar feed psi as a carb? The 40285 delivers 4-7 psi and 33 GPH. 4-7 psi falls in the acceptable range specced in the DB2 manual, 9-11.5 exceeds that. Why go with more psi? Is there an advantage? Can it harm anything? Will it affect the timing curve? Debating going electric if resealing my new returns doesn't work, as it seems to be bleeding down but I don't see any fuel leaks.
mikeboggess
Full Access Member
The question you are asking is way over my pay scale. I defer to someone else.
MTKirk
Full Access Member
Because in the real world you will not see those pressures. On my truck I have the duralift mounted in the engine compartment just forward of the stock 6.9L water separator. the pump sucks through the water separator, then pushes fuel through the fuel filter (also stock). I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted just before the Injection pump inlet and I typically see 6psi (I have checked this with a mechanical gauge & get the same numbers). If you went with the 40285 I would think you would get under 4psi the truck would run but you'd be risking other issues.
Our Injection pumps will work with low supply pressure, or even without a lift pump (at least for a while) but this is something you want to avoid; this means you don't have as much fuel going through the pump to lubricate or cool it. Far better to err on the side of too much fuel.
mikeboggess
Full Access Member
Would you send a picture of your setup, please?
MTKirk
Full Access Member
sure but give me a day or two
mikeboggess
Full Access Member
I am a professional PROcrastinator so take your time, I feel a bit of uncertainty doing this myself so I tend to put things off, then all of a sudden it becomes clear and I jump right in/on.
MTKirk
Full Access Member
OK, so here’s some pictures of my truck’s duralift pump.
I had to move the vacuum canister a tiny amount for clearance, but all the vacuum lines were unchanged.
The pump is mounted to the metal side inner fender, and the plastic inner fender. I made a “backer” out of a piece of ½” galv. pipe- it fit right in a groove in the underside of plastic inner fender and really stiffened things up (see pic). I made all of the mounting straps by modifying Simpson building ties from home depot. The only thing I might change about the mounting is to add some rubber for sound insulation where-ever the pump or mount touches metal. These are great pumps, but; They are not quiet.
The supply line comes from the old style 6.9 water separator (yes mine still functions, and does not leak). The pump outlet goes to the stock steel fuel line located just under the water separator (used to attach to the separator). All that needs to be done the is to remove the manual pump, replace with a block-off plate, & connect the lines to the pump with a short piece of fuel line.
This is a great way to convert the 6.9L with the old style water separator, as you don’t have to mess with the fittings on the fuel filter. I don’t think this approach will work with the 7.3’s. I had to use the drivers side for my pump, as the passenger side is filled with all the paraphernalia for a heated WVO system.
I had to move the vacuum canister a tiny amount for clearance, but all the vacuum lines were unchanged.
The pump is mounted to the metal side inner fender, and the plastic inner fender. I made a “backer” out of a piece of ½” galv. pipe- it fit right in a groove in the underside of plastic inner fender and really stiffened things up (see pic). I made all of the mounting straps by modifying Simpson building ties from home depot. The only thing I might change about the mounting is to add some rubber for sound insulation where-ever the pump or mount touches metal. These are great pumps, but; They are not quiet.
The supply line comes from the old style 6.9 water separator (yes mine still functions, and does not leak). The pump outlet goes to the stock steel fuel line located just under the water separator (used to attach to the separator). All that needs to be done the is to remove the manual pump, replace with a block-off plate, & connect the lines to the pump with a short piece of fuel line.
This is a great way to convert the 6.9L with the old style water separator, as you don’t have to mess with the fittings on the fuel filter. I don’t think this approach will work with the 7.3’s. I had to use the drivers side for my pump, as the passenger side is filled with all the paraphernalia for a heated WVO system.
Attachments
mikeboggess
Full Access Member
Thanks for the pics. I like your idea of where to mount the FP and your bracket looks easy enough to make. Where does your (black rubber) fuel line tie into the tank lines?
Not a bad mounting arrangement. Your pass side fender sure looks busy...
I was thinking if I go with an electric pump to mount it just inside the frame rail. I want to put two filters down there just ahead of the tank valve so could put the pump either before or after. Fairly easy access for servicing on a crew cab IMO and tucked out of the way.
I was thinking if I go with an electric pump to mount it just inside the frame rail. I want to put two filters down there just ahead of the tank valve so could put the pump either before or after. Fairly easy access for servicing on a crew cab IMO and tucked out of the way.
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40223 with the truck idling. The pressure is not a problem.
mikeboggess
Full Access Member
Thank you for your reply. This gives me more courage to undertake this endeavor. I have not even started on it yet. Total procrastination, can't blame the weather, got all the tools necessary, all I need is the fittings, circuit breaker, block off plate, a little wire. Feeling a little guilty now that all y'all have done everything but install the FP. I will take pics and detail the process.
