EGTs... maybe ill sensor?

[Matt_INW]

The Banks branded EGT sensor on my rig is from ~1992 when the Banks system was installed. As long as I've had the truck (just since September) the idle EGT is oh 150-200ish, well below 300. Driving around normally it might get up to 300 or a bit more. Putting my foot into it uphill I can get it up to 600, not sure I've ever gotten it past that, I rarely get it on the freeway for long distances. My 1,000 trip starting tomorrow should confirm.

I have read that the positioning of the sensor for Banks isn't optimal (behind the turbo and not on the manifold), so maybe that mostly explains it? That said, today when I got the truck from the shop the EGT was hardly working, showing 100 and barely moving to 150 even going up a steep hill at 45. This is the 2nd time it's done that after getting from the shop, otherwise behavior is consistent as described in 1st paragraph. I did return to the shop, nothing is loose, and wiggling both near the sensor and near the gauge didn't change the behavior.

So I left again, and like last time ( a few months ago) after 20 miles or so the EGT is about back to it's normal range. Wierd huh? I supposed I need to add "replace EGT probe) to my to do list.

 

[blacksmoke94]

It sounds like you are absolutely getting false readings from either the gauge or the probe. Not sure how you can test either one. You should be pushing several times what you're reading (hitting 1k or higher on a hill is normal from my experience with a heavy throttle). I've always understood that the optimal placement of the probe is on the back of the driver side exhaust manifold or as close as you can get it there on the crossover pipe. That's where mine is.

 

[Clb]

Call banks the tech dept can dial ya into testing the probe with a multimeter!
IF I recall ohms should sweep up slowly when ya hit it with a torch( the probe) sounds like ya got trouble!
Both of mine were both toast banks gauge and thermocouple.

 

[icanfixall]

There is nothing wrong with the placement of the probe. Its actually the best location because it sees the blended temps from each cylinder bank. Find the electrical connection to the special wire leading to the dash gauge. Open them and clean them well. Then see what happens. They really need a clean connection to transmit the signal. Its a very small signal too. Also make sure the wire color is connected correctly.

 

[Matt_INW]

The wire from the probe is only a few inches long where it connects to another wire. I assume that wire is one long piece that goes to the gauge, though I suppose I should confirm that's the case. Anyways that connection is still shrink sealed. So I'd need to cut it open to check the connections.

 

[OLDBULL8]

You test a thermocouple with a Millivolt meter, as the temp rises, the more Mv is generated. Testing with an Ohm meter only tells you that the type K, Chromel, Alumel wires have a solid junction. IIRC, the yellow wire is Positive, red wire is Negative. You can take a propane torch and heat the thermo and see if the gauge rises in temp indicated. No need to have any battery voltage like turning the key ON. Do not heat until the thermocouple turns RED.

 

[OLDBULL8]

There will be a difference of 100*F to 200*F from the location of the thermocouple, Lower temp at the turbo as opposed to a higher temp at the #8 cyl exhaust port.

 

[Spun4Fun]

I had the run around with my thermocouple , I done few tests based on help from here and talking to Banks Tech support . As it turned out the connection under the hod going to the thermocouple needed to be cleaned real good ( real good ) then secured real good with the locking nut never had any issues since .

I done Ohm test on the guage and saw the needle sweep across ( you do that by setting your neter to ohms and disconnect the lead at the back of the gauge , Connect the positive to the red and touch the other side with the black you should see the needle sweep , If it does not switch the meter leads , if no action the gauge is bad ) , I also done resistance test on the thermocouple it self and you should read about .6 ohma across the red and yellow off course after you remove them from the big long black cable .

You can check continuity between tip of the red lead to the tip of the red lead connecting to the back of the gauge and same for the yellow , Switch your meter to ohms and test the same way but read resistance at the yellow you should have between .6-.9 ohms and at the red you should get 1.4 ohms - 1.6 ohms


If there no ohm reading at the thermocouple after you remove it from the long 10' lead or you get open its bad and need to be replaced