E4OD shift kit

[LCAM-01XA]

I'm thinking of installing a shift kit in my transmission. I'm looking at OPT's site, and I find three kits that should fit my needs:

SUPERIOR E4OD SHIFT CORRECTION PACKAGE 1989-1998

TRANSGO FORD E4OD / 4R100 1989-ON SHIFT KIT

TRANSGO FORD E4OD / 4R100 1989-ON HIGH PERFORMANCE SHIFT KIT

The Superior kit can be had with a boost valve for the pump as well, but since I'm not planning on pulling the trans off the truck that cannot be used. So I'm thinking, what makes the $55 TransGo kit better than the $40 Superior kit, and is the $75 TransGo kit really that great? I don't haul no more, and I have an electronic pressure riser now that makes for some nice quick shifts... Opinions please?

 

[david85]

First opinion is to take that line pressure riser and give it to some one you hate . Higher line pressure is one of the worst ways to get more crisp shifting and I've seen a few guys shorten the life of their E4ODs after installing them.

If you had a later model E4OD with loads of upgrades like stronger seals and pistons and maybe a few steel valves, then it might not matter as much, but all a line pressure riser does is place more strain on the secondary parts of the transmission.

The valves, seals, and some pistons are all more likely to fail earlier because of the added stress of higher line pressure during even mild operation (meaning that on average, there is higher operating pressure on those parts).

Valves normally are subject to side loading and can jamb or snag if too much pressure is applied on older parts. The converter clutch piston is notorious for cracking from higher fluid pressure and your line pressure riser could make this worse, I've seen it happen to a guy in FTE and it cost him a new torque converter.

About the shift kits, I haven't really used any of them (though I think I might have bought the $40 kit for that pump valve), but generally the more expensive ones have extras like steel valves to replace some of the more wear prone aluminum valves on the factory build. My kit also had things like an overdrive snap ring (which I didn't use), and other more involving internal parts. I seem to remember an updated reverse clutch piston seal as well.

Bottom line is as long as they come with instructions, go with the one that has some springs and some custom sized drill bits. Unless you are rebuilding the transmission, the more expensive kits are likely to have more goodies that you can't use right now anyway.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well, the thing with the line pressure riser, it's nothing brutal - I played with several different resistors, and installed the smallest one that makes a difference in the way the trans shifts - I figured by now the trans pump is probably worn some, and so are the clutches, they could probably use a bit extra clamping force on them. And that's mainly why I put the thing in there, not so much for the crisp shifts, so it's not setting the EPC to "kill" mode. And yah, I know about the converter, or shall I say now I know, back then when I put the resistor in I didn't

But yeah, that thing is coming off when the shift kit goes in, that's for sure. As for the steel valves, yes, I remember the kit I put in my AOD had some of those, so I'd imagine the $58 TransGo kit will have some of those as well... I think I'll go with that one, as that whole hold any gear to any rpm thing don't matter much to me as my top engine speed is a bit over 3500 to begin with, which is nothing compared to the demands of a high-perf gasser engine.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

Ivan all you need is a $50 trans-go kit in the valve body. You remember riding in my truck how smooth & fast it shifted. (when it wasn't throwing TC slip codes DOH)

Trans Go shift kit from RacerX for $45-$50 I believe & you are good to go.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Gare, cool man, I'll get that one then. Did you put the kit in yourself? How much of a pain was it, I remember the kit for my AOD didn't have the best instructions so it took a bit of brain exercise to understand them...

 

[Cat_Rebel]

Gare, cool man, I'll get that one then. Did you put the kit in yourself? How much of a pain was it, I remember the kit for my AOD didn't have the best instructions so it took a bit of brain exercise to understand them...

Not that hard, I've 2 of them so far. Drop tranny pan, pull off valve body, get soaked in tranny fluid , then follow instructions provided. They are actually laid out very nice.

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[trackspeeder]

The kit in Cat's post is half of the Tugger kit. If you decide to pull the tranny at a later date order the pump parts and complete it. The VB mods are nice. The pump mods will mke the VB mods worth it.

Another kit to look at if your just tinkering with the VB. Sonnax Sure Cure. This kit uses springs and shims to adjust the VB. No drilling like the Trans Go kit.

What ever kit you use will be better than stock.

Oh as been said. Get rid of the electronic pressure thingy. You don't need it. Your tranny dose not want it.

 

[Optikalillushun]

the HD2 is for a street truck, performance minded. the Tugger is for well, towing. pick ur poison.

i did a full performance rebuild on the E4OD in my 93 F-150 and used the HD2 kit along with a .500 modulator valve and it shifts great.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I don't think the trans will come out any time soon, so it will be just VB mods for now. So the way I understand the different shift kits is that the basic kit stiffens and quickens the shifts, the HD2 kit adds the feature of you adjusting the firmness of the shifts to where you like it along with being able to use any gear at any time, and the Tugger kit is like the HD2 but with the pump mods. Is that correct? Also, the .500 modulator valve Optikalillushun mentioned, where does that one go, in the VB or the pump? And by the way .500 is not recommended for diesel applications, but the smaller .427 is, anyone have an idea why that is? Say can I mix a basic transgo kit with a .427 valve in my never-opened never-modded E4OD, and would that be better than a HD2 kit alone?

And Gare, in your instructions, for step #5, that hole through the partition wall under the small "x" mark, is that supposed to be horizontal so it connects the chambers that are on both sides of the wall?

 

[Cat_Rebel]

I don't think the trans will come out any time soon, so it will be just VB mods for now. So the way I understand the different shift kits is that the basic kit stiffens and quickens the shifts, the HD2 kit adds the feature of you adjusting the firmness of the shifts to where you like it along with being able to use any gear at any time, and the Tugger kit is like the HD2 but with the pump mods. Is that correct? Also, the .500 modulator valve Optikalillushun mentioned, where does that one go, in the VB or the pump? And by the way .500 is not recommended for diesel applications, but the smaller .427 is, anyone have an idea why that is? Say can I mix a basic transgo kit with a .427 valve in my never-opened never-modded E4OD, and would that be better than a HD2 kit alone?

And Gare, in your instructions, for step #5, that hole through the partition wall under the small "x" mark, is that supposed to be horizontal so it connects the chambers that are on both sides of the wall?

I bought the tugger kit but never did the pump mod. Even when I had the trans out of the truck. I have known people who have done it & messed it up & had to drop the whole tranny again to fix it.

I helped a buddy put a SONNAX kit in his truck but it just shifted too harsh for my likings & the Trans Go kit is about the same price.

Ivan that part they say to drill was already cut out on my 93. When we did another guys 97 it wasn't but we ended up not drilling it & it still works perfect. So if you don't have that slot there drill it out, if you do just ignore it.

This is what you need right here- Trans go shift kit

I never replaced my VB gasket, works just fine.

 

[nevrknow]

Quick hint I wish someone wouldve told me , I put in the sonnax kit. In that valve body ? The instructions show needle nose pliers to remove the clip, uh huh, for 1-2 no problem. The other slots? get a dental pick to get the clips out (or something similar), i dont think they make needle nose pliers that thin.

Install was quick ( although a lil messy) problem was I only had my truck tools with me and nothing small enough to get those other clips out, SO, I spent another 15 minutes looking around my GF's house trying to find some doohicky to pull the other clips. Sure wish they would've told me that in the instructions. Oh well, I'm still a noob trying to learn. Good luck with that.

 

[Optikalillushun]

I don't think the trans will come out any time soon, so it will be just VB mods for now. So the way I understand the different shift kits is that the basic kit stiffens and quickens the shifts, the HD2 kit adds the feature of you adjusting the firmness of the shifts to where you like it along with being able to use any gear at any time, and the Tugger kit is like the HD2 but with the pump mods. Is that correct? Also, the .500 modulator valve Optikalillushun mentioned, where does that one go, in the VB or the pump? And by the way .500 is not recommended for diesel applications, but the smaller .427 is, anyone have an idea why that is? Say can I mix a basic transgo kit with a .427 valve in my never-opened never-modded E4OD, and would that be better than a HD2 kit alone?

And Gare, in your instructions, for step #5, that hole through the partition wall under the small "x" mark, is that supposed to be horizontal so it connects the chambers that are on both sides of the wall?

the .500 valve is for extreme performance so i say what they recommened is plenty sufficent. the valve goes into the acumulator valve body. see: http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/96948-05K-IN.pdf

it would give u more line pressure per shift. that along with the HD2 kit is gunna be real nice, long living and shifitng trans. do u have an external cooler? u may also want to add an external filter (think remote oil filter). the "filter" in the E4OD is mearly a screen. keep the E4ODs fluid cool and clean, along with the shift kit and it'll live a happy long life.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

OK, well since I don't really care for the holding a gear to any rpm thing, I think I'll get the kit Garrett recommended and also the .427 valve. Yes I do have a trans cooler, I actually have the factory cooler bypassed and all the fluid is going through what used to be my A/C condenser, additionally my engine fan clutch is locked so the fan is blowing on full all the time and even at idle I got some nice airflow through the radiators, so cooling will not be an issue at all. So to break it down I'll need:

- Transgo kit
- Sonnax valve
- new filter
- new ATF
- external filter

Mkay, that just got real scary in the financial department, lol

 

[Optikalillushun]

u know ur way around FSB, search the tech section for the filter.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Oh, I know the filter, I've installed one on a buddy's truck, and having just redone my own transmission cooling lines putting one in my truck woin't be hard at all.