E fuel pump question

[Duke57]

Just installed this on my F350 Flatbed cab and chassi. Right where the tank switching valve was. opened up my tank, put a new shower head on and pulled a spare ceramic resistor from an old spare sending unit, and soldered it in and gauge works again. Also had to solder a small hole in the brass float, was full of fuel.
Now I am fully aware of how this engine drinks fuel, even as a NA.

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[gfemling]

[QUOTE="The_Josh_B...

Speaking of fuel headers, the OEM ones will leak air from the filter heater element. Eventually they will leak fuel but will let air in first as the fuel drains back to the tank. They will also leak at the two-piece fuel filter, if you haven't switched to the wix/Napa style one-piece ...[/QUOTE]

Interested in this- someone have a number for the NAPA/Wix one piece fuel filter?

 

[Clb]

I bet it's in the tech section \stickies...

 

[gandalf]

[/QUOTE]

Interested in this- someone have a number for the NAPA/Wix one piece fuel filter?[/QUOTE]


I have a WIX 33617 on my NA engine. It is a one piece fuel filter.

 

[catbird7]

I've had a Holley red on my truck for more than 10 years, no issues with the pump. If you locate the pump on the frame near the tank, any leaks between the pump and engine will immediately show up as a fuel leak because you're pushing fuel. If the pump is located underhood, any leaks between tank and pump will result in air intrusion because you're sucking both fuel and air.

 

[Joseph Davis]

on Mine went with Carter diesel Electric pump with a resistor switch and works great!

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

on Mine went with Carter diesel Electric pump with a resistor switch and works great!

What is a resistor switch?

 

[Greenie]

Why would anyone delete the stock lift pump? I replaced the pump once in the 27 years I've owned the truck. It provides reliable and consistent service without the complication of adding 12 volts to the mix.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Why would anyone delete the stock lift pump?

I can think of a few reasons. The quality of replacement lift pumps has gone down in the last decade or so (a lot like the electric pump quality). Some people are afraid of the lift pump leaking fuel into the oil. That is a possibility, but it doesn't seem to happen all that often. Some people want more fuel than the stock pump can supply so they'll switch to an electric pump.
As for me, I feel the same way. Mine has been pretty problem free and I'm not going to switch to electric on my Blue Truck. The electric pump that I'll put on someday for a transfer pump from the rear tank to the front tank doesn't count. Now on my Ex Wife truck, I will put an electric pump on that when I get around to putting the built up engine in it. As long as I have the 6.9 in it though, I'll stick with the stock pump there too.

 

[Booyah45828]

Hey guys and merry Christmas!
So a couple weeks ago I took off my mech fuel pump and put a e pump on. I installed it in the engine bay and not back on the frame so it pulls instead of pushes. So here is my morning routine since install. 1. Pop hood 2. Grab half empty can of starting fluid 3. Turn switch on so the pump runs 4. Go to the fuel filter Schrader valve bleed air for a sec 5. Release and do it 2 more times until fuel squirts out 6. Spray start fluid 7. Floor the fuel and pray it starts 8. If it doesn’t start it will fire off for a split second and die 9. If #8 happens bleed fuel again 10. Most of the time batteries are tired and it’s not gonna happen. 11. Wake wife up give a choice to either drive me or be without a car for the whole day 12 if truck fires off and you get to work park the truck shut it off 13. Pop hood 14. Turn switch on so fuel pump runs 15. Bleed until fuel squirts out 16. Wonder why you replaced the mechanical pump cause this is worse than before.
The truck is a 1994 f250 7.3idi turbo. 281,000. The rear fuel tank leaks and I only use the front. It’s a project plus a daily driver any help would be appreciated

Like the prior posters said, you have air intrusion. Finding where it's at is the hard part.

If you're not interested in doing the diagnosis, your first stab in the dark should be to install a return line kit, new olives on the fuel lines, and replace the check valve on the filter head. Also install a new filter return check valve # F2TZ9K061A, or cap it off and eliminate that line.

If after all of that, you're problem persists, you'll have to use clear vinyl tubing from the hardware store and find out where your air is coming in from.

Did you have air intrusion issues before your pump swap?

 

[Joseph Davis]

Built into Relay, to drop amps down too 1 amp at switch. It will not over-heat key switch when turned on.

 

[Cubey]

I can think of a few reasons. The quality of replacement lift pumps has gone down in the last decade or so (a lot like the electric pump quality). Some people are afraid of the lift pump leaking fuel into the oil. That is a possibility, but it doesn't seem to happen all that often. Some people want more fuel than the stock pump can supply so they'll switch to an electric pump..

It's also harder on van chassis to get to it because the engine is a bit closer to the radiator than on pickups. It's not impossible but it's tighter. Getting the old mech pump out was easy enough but that's different from installing it. Plus I did it from the bottom which is very messy. I could have pulled the alternator and vac pump and done it from the top I guess, and maybe the bracket too if needed... but I was going to electric so I didn't bother. I bought fittings required to just put a piece of hose in place of the mech lift pump, so one could be put back some day no problem. I did that and the block cover over the hole.

The Holley pump I put is down on the frame rail, so it's very easy to service if needed. Tons of room under my RV to get at it. Being out on the road, I want something that's easier to fix in a parking lot (should it need it) without having to take off parts like alt and vac pump to change the pump, without taking a diesel shower by doing it from the bottom.