driveshaft shenanigans

[1mouse3]

I have spent a lot of free time over the past week gutting the rear and getting the replacement installed. I was mistaken that this was a open, it never tryed to engaige over the past 15k miles but there is 249k miles on the truck.

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This is the damaged long yoke that came on the truck and the short that came with the 3.55 gears. Also this is the crush sleeve and the spacer that replaces it, did flie a chanfer on it.

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Now on to trying to get the pinion races replaced...

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Found failer trying for the inner since it keep going in side way.

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So had to drive it back out and find another tool to try again to get in all the way. Used a curved object to sit on the edge to drive it in straight first tho.

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Now for torqueing down the pinion and setting the preload. The short one was loose tightened down all the way, so ran the long one on. It took a bit but it got there, using spec of the crush that came with the gears it came to be around 15in/lb. Going to have to find another yoke since this one is not in the best of shape.

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The carrier checked good using the shims that came out, so this is all rapped up. Now have the gears matching and have something more useable for highway runs.

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[1mouse3]

I believe Im thinking about this wrong of how these trac loks operate. These use flat groved disk over abbrasive ones, level steel floats on each other but sticks together.

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Between these two unit even tho there the same type disk, the one I pulled out look to been wearing at the making them shinny. So the fluid that was in the diff was inadequate to coat the disks and @CBRF3 is saying the amount of additive dictates operation capacity.

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By this photo I found of the disks, the ones keyed for the axles are spiral cut. So when these disks move at different rates, I think it causes some sort of hydraulic action to take place forcing the disk apart locking the pack. So this unit requires a specific fluid for it to opraite as intended, too thin will wash past the disks and too think wont pass. So will take the advice given and use the 75w-90 castrol synthetic gear oil to see if will have it working.

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[CBRF3]

I believe Im thinking about this wrong of how these trac loks operate. These use flat groved disk over abbrasive ones, level steel floats on each other but sticks together.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Between these two unit even tho there the same type disk, the one I pulled out look to been wearing at the making them shinny. So the fluid that was in the diff was inadequate to coat the disks and @CBRF3 is saying the amount of additive dictates operation capacity.

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By this photo I found of the disks, the ones keyed for the axles are spiral cut. So when these disks move at different rates, I think it causes some sort of hydraulic action to take place forcing the disk apart locking the pack. So this unit requires a specific fluid for it to opraite as intended, too thin will wash past the disks and too think wont pass. So will take the advice given and use the 75w-90 castrol synthetic gear oil to see if will have it working.

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looks like its coming along and yes the kits you see often online for clutch packs for these are the light duty crappy ones the one I sold you had the good set in it ( the HD aggressive set ) and I had tested it previously before removal to make sure it worked properly and was in good shape yes it was dirty from setting in the shop floor beside my tool box for almost a year but after a cleaning up and changing the bearings would be good to go.

PLZ use the 75w-90 castrol synthetic oil in this dif as its what has the best detergeant package and such I could find for these trak loks most of the friction modifiers and such sold are incorrect for these even ford / international try to sell you wrong stuff contact spicer and they will tell you the castrol synthetic 75w-90 is also the most appropriate easiest route to go I actually asked theyre facility manager over in Indiana about this question and he contacted me back saying yes i was correct the castrol 75w-90 was the most appropriate fluid.

The same guy told me they no longer sell the original friction additive for our difs and moved to a new one that is incorrect for our trak loks but appropriate for the newwer ones but not the older ones and that again the castrol 75w-90 synthetic has the closest to original additive package and is still what they use in modern difs from factory.

I also want to point out the fluid reaction you stated being how the friction is controlled is partially correct but also incorrect the main reason these trak loks work is due to the way theyre preloaded and torsion force the resistance to accelerate aka torgue load up adds a torsion load to the clutch pack essentially the center carrier slightly twists pulling the outer sides in adding more pressure to the packs making for more positive traction being added and if a tire slips well the pulse runs thru the carrier makes the disks slap / spin out clearing oil out of the grooves making for a harsher contact / engagement when you get it together lift one side off ground on a railroad tie or similar that way it can move forward sliding on said tie for 4-5 foot with only 1 side contacting ground you will see the pulse lockup I am talking about put it in 1st gear low lock with front dif unlocked so can get out and watch it crawl and how the locker engagement works and the lockup pulse I am talking about.

 

[1mouse3]

PLZ use the 75w-90 castrol synthetic oil in this dif as its what has the best detergeant package and such I could find for these trak loks most of the friction modifiers and such sold are incorrect for these even ford / international try to sell you wrong stuff contact spicer and they will tell you the castrol synthetic 75w-90 is also the most appropriate easiest route to go I actually asked theyre facility manager over in Indiana about this question and he contacted me back saying yes i was correct the castrol 75w-90 was the most appropriate fluid.

The same guy told me they no longer sell the original friction additive for our difs and moved to a new one that is incorrect for our trak loks but appropriate for the newwer ones but not the older ones and that again the castrol 75w-90 synthetic has the closest to original additive package and is still what they use in modern difs from factory.

Would there be another brand oil you would recomend, Im not seeming to find stock of the castrol oil? What about the red line brand since finding that come up searching the castrol? Looks like Im in the same boat as was with finding a 10-40w oil for the bmw with a high thermal shear, all I found there was a lucas brand oil. A high mile 10-40w with lucas stabilizer mixed in would get by for 1500-2000 miles before the oil got thin and started disappearing. The lucas 10-40w would get me to the 3500 mile mark before starting to vanish. Any thing else would not last long and 10-30w had lifter noise on first start cold.


Edit: I do see two different formulas for the 75w-90, syngear and syntrax. Also looking into what else castrol offers, and see a 80w-90 that says for Ford ESP-M2C154-A. These the pdfs for the three different formulas and there is availability of the 80w-90.

syntrax 75w-90
syngear 75w-90
axle 80w-90

 

[CBRF3]

Would there be another brand oil you would recomend, Im not seeming to find stock of the castrol oil? What about the red line brand since finding that come up searching the castrol? Looks like Im in the same boat as was with finding a 10-40w oil for the bmw with a high thermal shear, all I found there was a lucas brand oil. A high mile 10-40w with lucas stabilizer mixed in would get by for 1500-2000 miles before the oil got thin and started disappearing. The lucas 10-40w would get me to the 3500 mile mark before starting to vanish. Any thing else would not last long and 10-30w had lifter noise on first start cold.


Edit: I do see two different formulas for the 75w-90, syngear and syntrax. Also looking into what else castrol offers, and see a 80w-90 that says for Ford ESP-M2C154-A. These the pdfs for the three different formulas and there is availability of the 80w-90.

syntrax 75w-90
syngear 75w-90
axle 80w-90

https://www.amazon.com/CASTROL-GEAR-75W90-SYNTRAX-LONGLIFE/dp/B00C3JV2GC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=19SCOX7MOA3SF&keywords=castrol+75w140+limited+slip&qid=1661044940&sprefix=castrol+75w%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-5

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/syntrax/castrol-syntrax-synthetic-gear-oil-75w-90-1-quart/casp/syntrax7590?q=castrol+75w-90&pos=0

The syntrax is designed for limited slip

 

[1mouse3]

I am not buying anything from amazon, most what I got was a knock off and someone keep trying to hack the acount I had. Yes oreilly dose list the syntax but they cant seem to locate any when I tryed fryday, could call another and try again. What about the mobile 1 over castrol syntax, the viscosity looks about the same and closer than the redline?

mobile 1 75w-90
redline 75w--90

 

[CBRF3]

I am not buying anything from amazon, most what I got was a knock off and someone keep trying to hack the acount I had. Yes oreilly dose list the syntax but they cant seem to locate any when I tryed fryday, could call another and try again. What about the mobile 1 over castrol syntax, the viscosity looks about the same and closer than the redline?

mobile 1 75w-90
redline 75w--90

mobile looks good again I advise the castrol as even dana say that is the one needed the one ford used to sell they no longer sell for our differential trak loks DANA specified the castrol one was only one that supported warranty I am just giving advice I was told directly from DANA for our trak Lok differentials they said anything else was not supported and was found to not have the additives needed for it to work properly and not go to crap.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...quart/casp/syntrax7590?q=castrol+75w-90&pos=0

is only one they told me was supported and had the proper additive package for our trak loks to function properly and not destroy themselfs they said if use the wrong fluid you will permanently damage them and cause them to not work correctly aka not lockup the one I sold you only had this fluid used in it as was advised by DANA themselfs.

 

[1mouse3]

is only one they told me was supported and had the proper additive package for our trak loks to function properly and not destroy themselfs they said if use the wrong fluid you will permanently damage them and cause them to not work correctly aka not lockup the one I sold you only had this fluid used in it as was advised by DANA themselfs.

Good to know and am try to find some. Found only one with three and the location of the forth quart is unkown right now.

 

[u2slow]

is only one they told me was supported and had the proper additive package for our trak loks to function properly and not destroy themselfs they said if use the wrong fluid you will permanently damage them and cause them to not work correctly aka not lockup the one I sold you only had this fluid used in it as was advised by DANA themselfs.

I refuse the believe the trac-loks are that fussy.

I've run basic 80w90 in different units over about 20 years. No additives. Makes them grab as well as they're capable of (albeit poor with a heavy load.) No damage or weird handling. My 2 cents.

 

[CBRF3]

I refuse the believe the trac-loks are that fussy.

I've run basic 80w90 in different units over about 20 years. No additives. Makes them grab as well as they're capable of (albeit poor with a heavy load.) No damage or weird handling. My 2 cents.

argue that with DANA the manufacturer of said differentials they flat out told me anything but the castrol I linked or the original fluid ( no longer available by ford ) which was ford branded castrol would damage them and not allow them to work correctly ( UNLESS YOU BUY THE TRAK LOK ADDITIVE SEPERATELY ) and as you said your experience has been so so with these maybe its because you damaged yours by using wrong fluid they told me any other fluid would cause permanent damage that was only fixable via rebuild of the trac lok with OEM HD friction plates and such so again you just told on your self and then supported my argument and proved it.

 

[u2slow]

I don't need to argue with Dana. I've never owned one from new to have had custody over every diff oil change.

Imho, the oil spec is less important that having an adequate traction device from the get-go. Still have a trac-lok in a jeep (10 years) and it's fine for highway and some logging roads. A powr-lok or a real locker is a better choice for a truck that has to handle some payload on soft, slick, or loose surfaces.

 

[1mouse3]

I got around to unboxing the replacement yoke, its not a 100% match but will work.

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So the axle is done and see can move under her own power again.

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[bulletpruf]

so others may have their opinions, but I was not a fan whatsoever of the 35’s with 3.55’s. I think that on a 4 speed the only nice thing would be your top speed. It really sucked the power out of my truck. I think 4.10’s with 35’s is an absolute perfect match, that’s what @Dane Rickford had for a long time.

That's good to hear. I'm planning on 35's for my truck and it has 4.10's.