driveshaft shenanigans

1mouse3

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I get asked from time to time about my front driveshaft and curiosity has got to me. My axles right now are 4.56 rear and 3.55 front, thinking about switching from rwd to fwd to test other ratio with 35s. I was going through lengths of shafts to see what would fit vs what I have to work with, this is what I come up with. So unsure on a shaft with double cardan and thinking might need one made. This leaves me wondering about the new supers drive shaft and wheather the t-case output flange can be used on my bw1345?


EDIT: let me make this more manageable to understand, first is the distance at rest for my truck and the rest are compressed distance for ones I am seeing

F350 clone with f-super lift

~35 1/2


F250

AOD 33-1/4
E4OD ~39-1/2
ZF5 ~39-1/2 ?
C6/T1X 35-1/2


F350

AOD X
E4OD 38-3/16
ZF5/C6/T1X ~32-1/2



This is a zf5 f250 driveshaft set in place and compressed most the way, it could do for a test drive but is showing another issue. This shaft is almost touching the crossmember, making wonder if the f350 got a different one than what I have.


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Clb

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I got no idea what's up in all the data you posted.....
that said
a cv at t case will effectively push the shaft forward away from the cross member.
the compresed length is the critical #, as is full droop (pull out of splines) the 3:55 are gunna feel weaker and the truck will feel a bit off driving from the front axle.
 

1mouse3

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I got no idea what's up in all the data you posted.....
that said
a cv at t case will effectively push the shaft forward away from the cross member.
the compresed length is the critical #, as is full droop (pull out of splines) the 3:55 are gunna feel weaker and the truck will feel a bit off driving from the front axle.

The first number is my distance between the t-case and axle, the rest are compresed length of avalable drive shaft for given applications. The one for a f250 zf seems off since the same a e4od and not c6/t1x, so that one has a ? mark. I am more curious about trade offs that both the 4.56 and 3.55 will have, the trade off the 4.56 is running to the governor on the highway for nice short shifts. I am suspecting the 3.55 will be runing to higher rpm between shift do to the longer spread, that may be pushing me to the governor more to keep the rpm falling to low in the next gear. I am wanting to see if is bearable and if so will chage the rear to match, other wise there getting left how they are for the time being. Good to know a cv will give needed clearence but unsure if the shaft listed for a f350 at ~32-1/2 compersed will extended much past 35-1/2 that is my distance at rest. It would be a bit of a wast to buy a shaft that that is too short or too long just to have it resized, the new superdutys have a cv shft and had me wondering if one can be made to work. If anyone knows of other common cv shafts that can work, that would be helpfull?
 

Randy Bush

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Thats pretty much worthless as a 4x4 with to different gear ratios correct. Plans on changing them to match?
 

1mouse3

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Thats pretty much worthless as a 4x4 with to different gear ratios correct. Plans on changing them to match?

I would like them to match but unsure if sticking with underdrive or going to overdrive, that would determine the one I keep. I am not sure would like a zf5 and fuller 6 underdrive could be a option, a ranger under drive is another option I see of interest. So am more leaning to the 3.55 as the ratio to keep, just unsure if will be useable with the t19 as is. I am not going off roading in this till I get l ladder bars or traction bars, so there is no push at he moment to get it working in 4x4 yet. This truck started as a pile of parts and Im slowly getting all the loose ends sorted out.
 

Farmer Rock

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My 87' f250 4x4 has a t19 and 3:55s on stock tires and unless you are going to be towing really heavy, they are really nice IMO. The 3:55s with 35 inch tires will probably leave a good amount to be desired, so you could always step down to smaller tires. The way I look at the 4:56 gears is, even with a zf5 you will be redlining it on the highway and would probably need a double over drive tranny to make them worth it, but is all that really worth it? I'll say go for the 3:55s if you're just doing average towing. IIRC, @Laine D has 3:55s and 35s? Maybe he will chime in with his experiences



Rock
 

Laine D

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My 87' f250 4x4 has a t19 and 3:55s on stock tires and unless you are going to be towing really heavy, they are really nice IMO. The 3:55s with 35 inch tires will probably leave a good amount to be desired, so you could always step down to smaller tires. The way I look at the 4:56 gears is, even with a zf5 you will be redlining it on the highway and would probably need a double over drive tranny to make them worth it, but is all that really worth it? I'll say go for the 3:55s if you're just doing average towing. IIRC, @Laine D has 3:55s and 35s? Maybe he will chime in with his experiences



Rock

so others may have their opinions, but I was not a fan whatsoever of the 35’s with 3.55’s. I think that on a 4 speed the only nice thing would be your top speed. It really sucked the power out of my truck. I think 4.10’s with 35’s is an absolute perfect match, that’s what @Dane Rickford had for a long time.
 

Big Bart

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1Mouse3,

You may want to reach out to Tom Wood's Driveshafts. This guy is very popular in the Jeep world where lifted Jeep wranglers were very problematic to a stock driveshaft. (They are super short and could not handle the extreme angles on a lifted Jeep.) They were one of the leaders in double cardan drive shafts decades ago.

https://4xshaft.com/

He has a standard offering for Bronco's (Maybe Ford used the same length on F250's.) and does made to order driveshafts. They will tell you how to measure if you want one made.

Not suggesting you just call and buy one. Rather call and discuss your particulars and thoughts. Then perhaps if you like what you hear and what is being offered, perhaps you order one.

Let us know what you end up doing.
 

Black dawg

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are your angles ok for a 2 joint shaft?? Sure looks like the t case angle is drastically different than the front diff.
 

u2slow

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The factory-correct arrangement for the D60 is the double-cardan shaft, and it's unique companion yoke at the tcase.

Shortening the f250 shaft does work.... You have to decide for yourself about angles/vibrations. Hasn't been a problem for me, it's more frustrating to have a loose/knocking CV shaft IME.

I can't say if the superduty flange (nv271 case) fits the older BW cases.
 

Clb

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This is just the t case minus the 30" tranny in a 110" wb mini truck
The CV will help
Being it's a front , you may skate by without one.
Don't expect to rail 3rd gear tho...
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4:10_ 4:56 with 35"'s
 

1mouse3

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1Mouse3,

You may want to reach out to Tom Wood's Driveshafts. This guy is very popular in the Jeep world where lifted Jeep wranglers were very problematic to a stock driveshaft. (They are super short and could not handle the extreme angles on a lifted Jeep.) They were one of the leaders in double cardan drive shafts decades ago.

https://4xshaft.com/

He has a standard offering for Bronco's (Maybe Ford used the same length on F250's.) and does made to order driveshafts. They will tell you how to measure if you want one made.

Not suggesting you just call and buy one. Rather call and discuss your particulars and thoughts. Then perhaps if you like what you hear and what is being offered, perhaps you order one.

Let us know what you end up doing.


That is interesting, it was a bit over $300 so not a bad price. A shop near me was around $200 per just to resize, adding finding parts makes its comparable.


Going over saved links on options for ratios and think I like one, the spicer 5831 C or E brownie with 1.27 under with a overdrive would go good with the t19. A fuller would not be bad but is more things to hunt for, epecialy the np205 that would other stuff. So a brownie simple to mount post the t-case, the ranger would be easyer but dont like the 1.17 under drive. This would make the 3.55 usable and be the one I go for.



are your angles ok for a 2 joint shaft?? Sure looks like the t case angle is drastically different than the front diff.


Yes the angle at the t- case is not grate.


The factory-correct arrangement for the D60 is the double-cardan shaft, and it's unique companion yoke at the tcase.

That is a issue and ran acrosst a post that a Spicer 2-4-5341 could be made to work.


https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-2-4-5341.html



It really sucked the power out of my truck


How much power was to give?
 

Clb

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A doubler for the t case will be an under drive, brownies are tough to find, but a 3 speed would rock ,direct , under and over!
 
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