Dorman 904-226 oil cooler tube

[tbrumm]

After "de-rusting" and cleaning up both my original oil cooler tube, and the spare tube I purchased, I am less than enthusiastic about installing either one. The spare tube may still be okay, but the original tube seems really "thin" after the rust on the outside has been removed. Of course, the OEM cooler tubes are running around $400-$500 Has anyone had any experience with the Dorman replacement tubes? The reviews I have read online seem to be pretty good, but I am still reluctant to use something made in china for such a critical part. Thanks for any input!
http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=73589&SEName=904-226

 

[DaytonaBill]

$210/@360!!! What a wild price swing!

While I know Dorman does have a warranty, I have no experience with this product...

That said, I have cleaned up the best of two tubes that I had (one was from a van) and pushed a straight rod through each tube and assembled the end caps with new seals and lots of Vaseline...

When I assembled it, the thought came to me... "How do I test for leaks?" I found this article and decided it was too much work (stupid, I know)...

Basically, you fill the water jacket with water (make sure the flanges are facing up, put thick (1/2") Plexiglas squares on the mating surfaces with a set of new gaskets, bolt it down, drill an air fitting over the water intake port of the cap flange (mark it down first, drill, then bolt it on the cap flange), pressurize and check for leaks...

Don't drill over the oil port because then you would have to put an oil filter on it to seal it... It's easier to just pressurize the water jacket of the tube to see if the new seals are good... after all, it does require a little bit of "oomph" to get the caps back on... Some people have nicked the new o rings and had oil mixing with the water... Messy!

Oh yeah, mock up some sort of way to keep the end caps on the tube, you could even put it down on some plywood and screw blocks of wood against the caps to keep them from blowing off when you do the pressure test...

Jm2cw...

 

[OLDBULL8]

Todd, I think I have a real good tube bundle. Will have to check. Let ya know this afternoon. Can't remember if I sold it. Thinkin Towcat has it.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I have a complete one from an IDI turbo that had 168K, i also have new ford O-rings to go with it, I'll even rebuild it for you, $250 shipped. My truck was just totalled friday so the spare engine i had overhauled and everything i have for it will likely be sold.

 

[tbrumm]

Thanks for the replies, Gentlemen!
DaytonaBill - I have read about building a test fixture for the cooler and also thought it was a lot of messing around to go through. In all likelihood, I will probably just be very careful installing the new o-rings and end caps and hope for success. Maybe we need an "oil cooler testing fixture rental program" here at OB.

Bill - I think Towcat did buy your last oil cooler bundle, but thanks for thinking of that. I hope your ear is well on its way to being all healed up!

Shawn - I was sorry to read about your truck getting hit by the dump truck. I think many of us have more money into our trucks than we can get back out should the truck be totaled. Best of luck with the insurance company. I will keep your offer in mind regarding the oil cooler. I already have the o-rings and gaskets and was planning on rebuilding my cooler.

I am probably just being paranoid. The spare tube I have is probably okay, but has quite a bit of pitting on the ends and around the o-ring seats which is what concerns me. The original cooler looks like brand new inside, but was heavily rusted outside, so I am sure the outer shell is thin in places. It was not leaking when I recently removed it. After looking at the cost of new OEM coolers on line, the Dorman coolers seemed to be a good alternative, if they are well made. Since I am sure they are made in china, that is the BIG question - are they any good?

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

The rust on the outside isnt so much of a concern but i would be concerned about the rust around the o-ring surface, that needs to be perfect for o-rings. It might be rusty on the outside but ok on the inside. You can always try it, dont use vaseline use a good silicone o-ring lube. I use the Boss 820 lube every day at work. I use it on chemical shot feeder lids with excellent success. They are a 4" o-ring that seals again a pitted surface almost the consistency fo asphalt. I slap this on the o-rings and hand tightent the lids (most guys hammer them tight) and i've not gone back for a leak in 60psi+ systems. It's rated for 400F or so. I used it on my oil cooler and just pushed headers on with one hand.

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-02812CL...=UTF8&qid=1471175317&sr=8-1&keywords=boss+820

 

[riotwarrior]

Todd....have a few here...if u have a failure...u can have a tube bundle...

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I actually just got one and put it in yesterday in my 96 PSD. Its a solid nice looking piece, says made in China, the o-rings are good and the gaskets are good but they welded over one of the tubes when they put the ends on. So far no leaks and i dont forsee any but it sems like poor quality welding to me.

 

[DaveBen]

Some body is learning MIG...

 

[MTKirk]

I actually just got one and put it in yesterday in my 96 PSD. Its a solid nice looking piece, says made in China, the o-rings are good and the gaskets are good but they welded over one of the tubes when they put the ends on. So far no leaks and i dont forsee any but it sems like poor quality welding to me.

Thanks for posting the pic. That looks truly awful, I hope it works out form you!

 

[tbrumm]

I actually just got one and put it in yesterday in my 96 PSD. Its a solid nice looking piece, says made in China, the o-rings are good and the gaskets are good but they welded over one of the tubes when they put the ends on. So far no leaks and i dont forsee any but it sems like poor quality welding to me.

Shawn- thanks for posting that pic of the oil cooler up. I know it is for a PS but gives us some idea of the "quality control" Dorman is using. I would think they would have to be pressure testing these things before they go out the door. If it passes the pressure test, the cooler gets shipped even if it is a bit "ugly".

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I wish id taken a pic of the outside, the thing was solid and a super high quality piece. It's just a shame they welded over the tube sheet.

 

[tbrumm]

So the oil cooler saga continues. I cleaned up the headers and yeah, well, they didn't clean up as well as I had hoped. The cooler wasn't leaking, but I think the corrosion between the aluminum headers and the steel tube is what was keeping it sealed. The headers are pitted, and what is worrisome is that the pits are in the o-ring seat locations. Took some pics to see what y'all think.

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[riotwarrior]

I will grab one of mine and peek a boo at it...jjst scored a cabinet sandblaster so can media blas once thoroghly cleaned in solvent tank and preassure washer.....just media blast outside btw

 

[homelessduck]

I have an oil cooler that should be in good shape. It does not have any rust. I'll send it to ya for $50.