Help! I botched it! Oil overfill, coolant in oil after water pump r&r and oil cooler reseal.

[Jon Schwenke]

IIRC the water pump bolts have specific holes to go into. I think 3(?) bolts go into the block. They need to be rtv'd. It's been a long time since I did a water pump, but I know a few bolts go through.

Yes, that's right. There are two different length bolts, and the center four are the shorter length and do (as I did) get rtv'd. As someone pointed out though, that's unlikely the issue since the rtv on the threads AND the water pump gasket would have had to fail for that to be the problem.

 

[TNBrett]

100% that sliced O-ring is your culprit. The gaskets look like they did fine to me. There would have to have been a failure between the oil passage and the coolant passage, but I don’t see any signs of that in your pics. I would do the gaskets the same way is time. FWIW I meant no insult by asking about using all the O-rings. Sometimes what seems obvious to someone might not to someone else. As far as how to assemble the cooler, definitely put both O-rings on the core and lube them up. Then press the core into the end. If you look, you’ll notice a pretty decent beveled lead in to where the O-rings seat. Also, it’s easier to control everything if you only press one end on at a time.

 

[TNBrett]

IIRC the water pump bolts have specific holes to go into. I think 3(?) bolts go into the block. They need to be rtv'd. It's been a long time since I did a water pump, but I know a few bolts go through.

The 4 that need to have RTV actually thread into nuts that are welded on to the back of the front cover. The rest of the bolts pass through the timing cover and thread into blind holes in the block and need no RTV. The reason the length of the bolts is critical, is that if they are too long, they will contact the timing gears behind the cover.

 

[Big Bart]

Ditto, put the o-rings on the oil cooler tube. Press on one cap at a time. Use o-ring lube and good judgement and it will all work out.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't recommend it, but in a pinch, I've even used 80w/90 to lube those o-rings. It worked fine, but it's still not highly recommended.

 

[hacked89]

I'm hoping you're right! Thanks.

Saw your update. See..no worries.
I've seen the oil cooler ring slice happen multiple times.
If you hear a little 'pop' when pressing it together, that's the ring's breaking. It should go smooth with not alot of press pressure.

 

[Jon Schwenke]

Saw your update. See..no worries.
I've seen the oil cooler ring slice happen multiple times.
If you hear a little 'pop' when pressing it together, that's the ring's breaking. It should go smooth with not alot of press pressure.

Thanks for the tip. And no offense taken about using all 4 orings. I thought it was funny. But yeah, considering I put 18 gallons of oil in the truck.... fair game . I almost responded "You mean all five...right?"

 

[Jon Schwenke]

Oops. I responded before I read ALL of the comments. 10-4 on o-ringing the tube first. Thanks again everyone! Now to clean it all up and put it back together again tomorrow....fingers crossed.

 

[Jon Schwenke]

Update: Oil cooler is back on the engine. I had a ridiculous time trying to get it pressed together. I was going much easier on it this time so as not to recreate my cut o-ring problem. It would not go together. Vaseline, motor oil, bearing grease, nothing helped. So, I stuck the tube in the freezer for 30 min and heated the heads up with a heat gun. Went together waaaaay easier. I'd recommend that be part of the install instructions for these things. Jeez. Anyway, now I'm waiting on the permatex to set up enough to torque bolts down, then tomorrow, fluids. I'm thinking coolant first with the oil drain plug out.

 

[Big Bart]

Not sure how the oil cooler is plumbed so if it did not seal this time, it may not leak back to the drain pan with the engine off.

1) After adding oil, check your dip stick before starting. Make a note of the level. It should lower a little after starting it and once it fills the cooler and filter. But not rise up unless your coolant is leaking in again.
2) You will likely see some water/coolant in the oil after running it. Because you have some water likely still in the crankcase.
3) If your oil level raises again you still have a leak.
4) If not go for go for a short drive. Check the level and if you think it’s sealed, change your oil and filter. That will remove most of the water left in the crank case.
5) I would change the oil again in 100 miles to try to get most of the remaining moisture out.

 

[Old Goat]

I hope you fill your Oil Filter before screwing it on.
Use the FL 1995 Power Stroke Motorcraft filter. yes it will fit.
Hold 1 1/2 qt.
Walmart has them for $9.44. I buy one when Iam in there, I now have more on my shelf than they do.

When i did my cooler I uses Syl-Glyde for the "O" Ring lube

Robot or human?

NAPA also has it with their name on it, great stuff.

For the paper gasket, I had an old tube of Permatex Air Craft 1A sealant, Think that is what it is called. Had the tube for over 20 years. Cut the tube open and enough fresh goopy in the middle. Smeared it on the header and stuck on the gasket, and had the orange rubber seal part towards the Block.

Guess it worked, been driving it over 2 years.

EDIT: Robot or Human? Ain`t Walmart great? GO Wally World.

Goat

 

[Jon Schwenke]

I hope you fill your Oil Filter before screwing it on.
Use the FL 1995 Power Stroke Motorcraft filter. yes it will fit.
Hold 1 1/2 qt.
Walmart has them for $9.44. I buy one when Iam in there, I now have more on my shelf than they do.

When i did my cooler I uses Syl-Glyde for the "O" Ring lube

Robot or human?

NAPA also has it with their name on it, great stuff.

For the paper gasket, I had an old tube of Permatex Air Craft 1A sealant, Think that is what it is called. Had the tube for over 20 years. Cut the tube open and enough fresh goopy in the middle. Smeared it on the header and stuck on the gasket, and had the orange rubber seal part towards the Block.

Guess it worked, been driving it over 2 years.

EDIT: Robot or Human? Ain`t Walmart great? GO Wally World.

Goat

Hey Goat, thanks for the tips. I bought a case of AC Delco filters at a bargain a while back and am still working on those, but that seems like a pretty good deal for those Motorcraft filters! I think next time I'll try some silicone o-ring lube like has been suggested...hopefully there will not need to be a next time.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I try to pick up one of those filters every so often myself. Just to have on hand. I don't give a rip about the extra oil capacity. I run them for the better filtration that they have compared to the ones that are "supposed" to go onto our IDIs.

 

[Jon Schwenke]

Update: All is well. No leaks (so far) from the gaskets, and no coolant appears to be getting in my oil. I'll run it as is for 100 miles or so and change the oil and filter out just to be on the safe side. Thanks for the support fellas. Pic below for those who want to see my shop press.....

 

[Big Bart]

Update: All is well. No leaks (so far) from the gaskets, and no coolant appears to be getting in my oil. I'll run it as is for 100 miles or so and change the oil and filter out just to be on the safe side. Thanks for the support fellas. Pic below for those who want to see my shop press.....

Glad to hear it all worked out this time.

I like the Schwenke shop press too!