Door Open Chim

79jasper

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There's separate wires for the different functions.
I have a buzzer type from my 94. Same plug. Works. But only does the key buzz on my base model.
Make me an offer.

I saved the one from my 88 xlt lariet, I'm gonna try it to see if it's buzz or chime. I need to add the headlight feature, as I always drive with my parking lights on.
 

HammerDown

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There's separate wires for the different functions.
I have a buzzer type from my 94. Same plug. Works. But only does the key buzz on my base model.
Make me an offer.

I saved the one from my 88 xlt lariet, I'm gonna try it to see if it's buzz or chime. I need to add the headlight feature, as I always drive with my parking lights on.
On your box, is the part number > #E6AB-10D840-A2A ???
I might insult you with my offer, you know what you need to get...feel free to PM me.
Meanwhile, I'll call a couple salvage yards...even a blind Squirrel finds a nut.
 

79jasper

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On your box, is the part number > #E6AB-10D840-A2A ???
I might insult you with my offer, you know what you need to get...feel free to PM me.
Meanwhile, I'll call a couple salvage yards...even a blind Squirrel finds a nut.

Dang. That's exactly what the one from my 88 is.
I'll have to make sure it works, and what noise it makes.
But otherwise, seriously, make an offer + shipping.

See mine only has the key buzz (well seatbelt sometimes) and that function was disabled at the ignition, so it's not like one will do me much good, unless I wire up the other features.
 

91idi

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The one in my 91 is so faint i can't hear it unless I'm next to it but, the gf hates it bc she can hear it all the time.
 

Jake_IN

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The one in my 91 is so faint i can't hear it unless I'm next to it but, the gf hates it bc she can hear it all the time.

Mines the same way. If i stop and listen for it i can hear it faintly but otherwise i don't even notice it anymore.
 

HammerDown

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The one in my 91 is so faint i can't hear it unless I'm next to it but, the gf hates it bc she can hear it all the time.
Apparently over the years they weaken. I've noticed the heat of 'this' summer made mine worse and eventually so weak it's almost unnoticeable.
 

Agnem

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This thread made me remember that these trucks came with it! When I took delivery of the Moose Truck, when it was brand new with 11 miles on it in July of 1983, the door buzzer worked for about a week. It then failed, and I was overjoyed! In the 30 years since, on rare, RARE occasion, it rears its ugly voice in a garbled desperate cry from the grave. My eyebrow goes up like Spock's on Star Trek, and then it silences itself and I forget that it has one for another decade.
 

rlb245

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The circuits have an inherent. It's the electrolytic capacitors. They go bad over the years. they ether leak out or short internally. Most of the time you can't tell by looking at the if there good or bad. Some time you can see the bad ones! They will bulge out on the top or leak out. The only good way is to test them with an esr meter. If the sound is faint or none existent then more or likely the caps are not charging up to make the circuit work properly. Hope this sheds some light on the subject. There normally easy to replace. a 25 watt soldering iron and some reason core radeo solder and some replacement caps. Just right down there value(it's on the side of them and head to Radio Shack.
Important note: make sure to make a not of the polarity of the cap (where the + and - are in the circuit. Have fun
 

HammerDown

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The circuits have an inherent. It's the electrolytic capacitors. They go bad over the years. they ether leak out or short internally. Most of the time you can't tell by looking at the if there good or bad. Some time you can see the bad ones! They will bulge out on the top or leak out. The only good way is to test them with an esr meter. If the sound is faint or none existent then more or likely the caps are not charging up to make the circuit work properly. Hope this sheds some light on the subject. There normally easy to replace. a 25 watt soldering iron and some reason core radeo solder and some replacement caps. Just right down there value(it's on the side of them and head to Radio Shack.
Important note: make sure to make a not of the polarity of the cap (where the + and - are in the circuit. Have fun
Ya know, I replaced a .99 cent capacitor on an old 35" tube TV my local TV guy was going to burn me for $300!
Radio Shack didn't have this odd-ball capacitor, had to travel 10 miles to get it but I actually enjoyed fixing that old TV that still works GREAT to this day!

Think I'll give the insides of my "ding-ding" unit another look...and of course post a picture here!
 

rlb245

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There are only 7 caps in the circuit but only 3 are electrolytic. I would replacing the 2 black axial lead electrolytic caps near the black chime
device and the 1 barrel type just because there age. But before I did that I would check the resistors and the one diode then the caps. All you need is an VOM.
 

HammerDown

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Pic no worky...
Maybe now?
rlb245, I removed the 3 caps with a RED X
...big vertical cap rating 63v 47uf
...two horizontal cap ratings 50v 6.8uf
Should I also remove/replace the 'two' very small horizontal caps/diods with RED circles ?

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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