DIY glow plug harness

theguruat12

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So technically, fusible link wire is supposed to be two gauges smaller than the wire it protects, meaning if I were to run my own harness (I will be, soon), I would run a 10AWG to each plug, and a 14AWG fuse link (say, 4 inches) at the end to the spade connector? Does the factoury put them on the plug end? Strictly speaking, it's safer to put them on the end connecting to the relay, since then the wire is protected all the way too.
 

vandy7.3

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That makes good sense to me, I'll be sure to post pics later on when I get home and get to working on it. Might start a new thread once anyone else it thinking about building there own harness for sake of moving the gpc

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79jasper

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But the fusible link wire is made to not catch fire.
Couldn't someone use a slow blow fuse instead?


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theguruat12

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The issue with translating fuse links to fuses is ampacity. Fuses rate wires by ampacity, fusible links you just choose the one two gauges smaller.

If you wanted to do it correctly, you'd have to calculate the maximum current carrying capacity of the wire, which has to take into account the gauge, the voltage AND the length (and if you want to get super precise, the ambient temperature and wire temperature). That's the shortcoming of most internet 12v wiring charts. There are nine million of them, and all have a different opinion on what the proper ampere rating of a wire is.

The info that OldBull provided is the best way to set the system up. If the load current of a single plug is approximately 30 amperes, then you could fuse each bank separately, to avoid using 8 fuses. So, a 130 ampere ATM fuse would probably be fine. But that brings up another issue. If you do it that way, and run a #10 wire to each plug from the fuse, then those #10 wires are not properly protected. Are they protected well enough? Most likely. But, if one plug fails (open circuit, no current in that wire), and then let's say another fails shorted. That wire will be allowed to carry 60 amperes for a small period of time until the ATM fuse blows. Is it long enough to catch fire? I wouldn't bet on it. Still, the way that it's protected from the factoury is, IMHO, the best way to protect the plugs.

All of that being said, I will probably be adding two Mini-ANL fuses to mine, one for each bank, and keeping the fuse links. That way my main feed wires are protected, as well as each individual wire.

/electrical rant
 

Andertusa

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If you wanted to do it correctly, you'd have to calculate the maximum current carrying capacity of the wire, which has to take into account the gauge, the voltage AND the length (and if you want to get super precise, the ambient temperature and wire temperature). That's the shortcoming of most internet 12v wiring charts. There are nine million of them, and all have a different opinion on what the proper ampere rating of a wire is.


Technically, the TYPE of wire also would effect the wire's ability to handle current. Steel wire conducts differently than copper, or even aluminum.
 

theguruat12

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Technically, the TYPE of wire also would effect the wire's ability to handle current. Steel wire conducts differently than copper, or even aluminum.

Well yes, good point. I always assume all copper wire, unless it's in home service entrances, then I consider aluminum too. Steel wire isn't rated for electrical use unless I'm mistaken, seeing as it's extremely inefficient.
 

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