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Dana 50 TTB knuckles on Dana 50 SA center section - Possible?

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Macrobb, Aug 7, 2019.

  1. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    I'm curious here. Has anyone attempted to swap Dana 50 TTB knuckles(everything from the ball joints outward) onto a later-model Solid-axle Dana 50?
    I found(and passed up) one at a Pick & Pull for <$200, because I couldn't confirm it would work.

    Looks like the bottom Ball-joint is the same, top is not... Not sure if I'd just need a "conversion" ball joint of some sort, or it just plain wouldn't work.

    Axle shafts, I was thinking if I had to, just combine the two at the U-joint - SD shaft on the inside, IFS shaft on the outside.

    Ideas?
     
  2. Garbage_Mechan

    Garbage_Mechan Garbage Mechanic

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    Hmm would be cool if it worked then we could run the “undesirable “ SD Dana 50 with our wheels. It’s plenty good enough it just isn’t a 60 so price is lower...
     
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  3. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    Exactly. Anyone have any input or measurements for this?
     
  4. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
     
  5. Clb

    Clb Another old truck Supporting Member

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    Why???















    So you cannot make a u turn in a forty acre feild?!
    Ok then jump on it.
     
  6. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    Wouldn't it give the (better) turning radius of a solid axle? That's basically the only reason to do this. The TTB axles are limited in steering angle because of how the driveshaft angles come together; too much and you bind or break a U-joint.
    But the solid axle has it coming straight in, with the pivot point being right in the center of the knuckle pivot, so you get a bit steeper angle.

    Right?
     
  7. nj_m715

    nj_m715 government's finest Supporting Member

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    much of the d50 and d60 outter stuff is exactly the same. spindles are slightly different, less meat to carry the weight of the truck on the base of the spindle where it slips into the knuckle.
    junkyard / ebay dana 50 stuff makes for cheap d60 spare parts
     
  8. Clb

    Clb Another old truck Supporting Member

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    Drive shaft
    Or
    Axle shaft???
     
  9. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    In my last post? I guess I really mean axle shafts. They do 'drive' the wheel, but.....you know what I mean.
     
  10. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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    Warning!!!! Hijack in progress!!!!

    So let’s put a little different twist on it. What if someone wanted to go to coils and keep the outters. I know some of the later SD trucks ran coils. CP addict sells coil bucket kits. Wondering if it could be an easy 2wd conversion. Then you could put dually hubs or singles right on there. Might be able to lower the height some too. My big complaint with the solid axle is the height. I’m getting old and have always been short and fat.

    Hell I’ve been looking at full on IFS stuff. Not like I’m rock crawling. I need to rescue myself from wet grass from time to time but that’s about it.
     
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  11. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    I guess the way I look at it, if you’re going to all that trouble most people are going to swap the rear axle for a 10.5 to ditch the drums and just run the metric pattern on all corners.
     
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  12. snicklas

    snicklas 6.0 and Loving It!! Staff Member

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    I’ll have to see if I can find it again, but I saw a link on Facebook that someone was taking brand new SD hubs and redrilling them to 8x6.5...... That way you could use an sd axle and keep the old bolt pattern......

    But I agree with Wes, if I’m going to all that work, I’m gonna swap both axles to sad axles.
     
  13. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    My #1 reason for doing all this would be to *not* have the metric pattern. Standard pattern rims are dime-a-dozen around here, and I have tons of them. Metric ones are... much harder to find and get ahold of; fewer SD trucks in the JYs I have handy.

    Also, while the disc brake rear might be an upgrade, I've not seen it being needed. Drums work just fine.

    In addition, the SD outers use unit bearings. They seem a bit weak compared to the old dual-oversized-taper-roller-bearing configuration; I know a guy who snow plows with a SD truck and he has to replace them once a season like clockwork. Meanwhile, the old style bearings just keep on trucking until you get some water or rust in there. And are *cheap* to replace(4 bearings at <$15 each).
     
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  14. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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    See, out here it’s the exact opposite. SD wheels are a dime a dozen. Standard are tough to find unless you want 16.5. Lots of those for sale. LOL

    Fair point. Might as well swap both ends if you are going to do it. Maybe even go 3.73 gears while you were at it.
     
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  15. u2slow

    u2slow Plan B

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    As for mixing solid D50 inners with ttb50 stubs, I think you'd be hard up to find a 1350x1480 conversion joint. The stub is also shorter than the D60 variant.

    I would be looking at swapping to 94-99 dodge knuckles, or have about an inch milled off the face of the solid 50/60 Ford knuckles. Then its a matter of drilling the ttb 50 spindle to match. SD rotors fit 8x6.5" when you drill them to 3/4" IIRC. Not sure there's any good way around getting actual D60 stubs.
     

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