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Replacing ball joints on Dana 50 ttb

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by quickster, Jun 27, 2020.

  1. quickster

    quickster Full Access Member

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    How's it going all. I never did the ball joints on one of these ttb's before. After the hub is removed, what is the order of removal of the rest? And do the axles pull right out, or are they clipped in the punkin? Thanks. This is on my '87 F250 w/3.55's
     
  2. nj_m715

    nj_m715 government's finest Supporting Member

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    the outter will be the same as a D60 most of the parts are exactly the same
    D60 has no jesus clips, d50 shouldn't but I cant promise

    different year, but should be basically the same

     
  3. u2slow

    u2slow bilge rat

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    I'm pretty sure at least one side has a clip. I want to say its the passenger side, to force the slip-joint to work, instead of the yoke pulling out of the pumpkin. I can't recall its a detent/spring type clip, or it has to be removed to pull the shaft.
     
  4. adamsanders

    adamsanders Full Access Member

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    The drivers side axle will pull out no problem. On the passenger side you’ll need to remove the clips on the rubber boot where the stub shaft meets the axle shaft and then it should pull out. The stub shaft is internally retained on the passenger side. I don’t the same job last year with the U joints as well. Getting the old original u joints out was terrible. Bent the ears on the yoke on the first it was so seized. On the second one I used a torch and cut the center out before I even started trying to get it out. Other than that, getting the spindle loose from the knuckle can be a challenge. My drivers side gave me a real fight. Had to use heat and big hammers. Changing the actual ball joints wasn’t too hard. I’d like to say it made a huge difference but honestly unless your ball joint are just straight up failing I cant tell much difference. And I’ve had the same experience on several trucks.
     
  5. quickster

    quickster Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the info guys. Haven't been online in a few days so I'm just getting caught up. All kinds of different info online about disassembly. Ended up buying a 2 3/8" 4 prong spindle nut socket. It has an indexing washer-nut setup. I was waiting for the outer nut, spacer, inner nut. Loosened up the 8 nuts holding the spindle on and it came right off. Pulled the axle- I'm on the driver's side, and I'm done for tonight. Haven't gotten to the passenger side yet- that side is good. So I might have to make a call on doing that side.
     
  6. u2slow

    u2slow bilge rat

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    8 spindle nuts... I believe makes it the Dana 44ttb. The Dana 50ttb has 5 nuts, same as the Dana 60.

    Only pointing it out to help get the correct service parts. :)
     
  7. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Sounds kinda backwards though doesn't it LOL. I was surprised to find that there's only 5, 7/16 studs/nuts holding that whole spindle on a D60!
     
  8. u2slow

    u2slow bilge rat

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    It's does seem backwards. The bolt circle of the 5 is larger though.
     
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  9. quickster

    quickster Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the info. I'm learning about these front ends as I go. So here's a pic of where I'm at now. Does the top and bottom joint need to be taken out with a fork, or both pressed at the same time. Then once the knuckle is off, then the ball joints pressed out of the kn IMG_20200630_161446685.jpg uckle? Getting ready to search youtube.
     
  10. quickster

    quickster Full Access Member

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    Just watched part of a video. Guy beating the shit out the top ball joint, hammering it down. He got it out, but is there a proper way to do it, or is that it. LOL. Maybe a little heat would help:)
     
  11. DaveBen

    DaveBen Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I have removed the ball joint by hitting the part where the u-joint goes through the axle. This is 90 degrees from the centerline of the joint finger. It works.
     
  12. cozinsky

    cozinsky Full Access Member

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    I always try to remove the camber sleeve from the upper one first if possible, then a few whacks with a sledge hammer against the knuckle will usually pop them right out. I haven't used a fork in years. If the sleeve doesn't want to come out first, make sure you remove and clean the rust off of it once the knuckle is removed before putting everything back together. Your alignment guy will thank you.
     
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  13. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    The best part of having a D44 front end is that you can turn around in about 1/3 the distance that it takes a D50 truck to turn around in. At least it sure feels that way when you're driving one with a D50.
     
  14. nj_m715

    nj_m715 government's finest Supporting Member

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    I have used a pickle fork and I have used a small sledge on the top joint. if it's really stuck, I use both
    both ways work, I like to leave a nut on so it doesn't drop on your feet
     
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  15. quickster

    quickster Full Access Member

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    Going to give it a go tomorrow if I get a chance. Think I'm going to heat it a little just to open it up. For the passenger side, is the clip to disconnect the driveshaft under this boot? If so I'll attempt to replace the joints. What the hell, I bought uppers and lowers for both side before I knew what I was getting myself into. IMG_20200630_211501812.jpg
     

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