D60 KP HP Ford axle...THE CURE..steering PoP

[riotwarrior]

Have steering issues with yer Solid axle D60 going PoP

This is a product I tried...built for chev and jeep....not Ford sadly

TRE that goes PoP...no boot sure sticks out a ways.....

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This plastic part is designed for 1 Ton chev TRE as such it was a gamble to try it...clearly ..not quite right

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Now slid back....

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Now found this rubber spacer on my OLD worn out linkage it nestles nicely against the cure

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And nut tightened down...

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So now I tried to convince them to make Ford unitz...nope...

So that being said...the way it is right now much less...MUCH less slop n PoP of my steering.

I think one under each of the 4 TRE would make a huge difference. The TRE only work in 1 plane so why not?

JM7.3CW

 

[79jasper]

Al, did you try it with the factory boot?

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[riotwarrior]

Al, did you try it with the factory boot?

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Ahem...destroyed it getting TRE out...have sinc found replacement boots...while I clean and sort shop...of course.

 

[subway]

Nice job, I have never really noticed much popping but I wonder how much tighter my steering would be with this.

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[LCAM-01XA]

I think one under each of the 4 TRE would make a huge difference. The TRE only work in 1 plane so why not?

Bad idea:

1) what you did was alright, the joint between the center link and the drag link mostly rotates around the shaft of the TRE as the suspension cycles, there is some angular deflection but it's minimal so you're in the clear.

2) the end on the pitman arm must absolutely NOT get this setup, ever - it also turns around the TRE shaft however that is during steering action only, the moment the suspension starts cycling up and down you get some pretty large angular deflection, that is why good TREs for that location actually have 2-stage internals - the ball of the shank is wrapped with a hollow ball, and the hollow ball is then wrapped with the TRE body, this allows for more angular deflection without risking the shank ball pulling out of the TRE body.

3) the TREs at the knuckles mostly do rotate around their shanks as well during steering, and they do not care what the suspension is doing, so it does kinda look like a single-plane motion there... But it's not. There is angular deflection going on, it's caused by the caster and camber of the knuckles with respect to the plane the center link travels in - as you're steering the end of the knuckle steering arm moving outboard rises and the end of the inboard-moving knuckle arm lowers, thus your entire center link also rotates slightly in vertical plane as well. You're looking at a scenario similar to the pitman arm TRE only not quite so severe - still, fairly solid angular deflection limiters are not advisable for these TREs.

What you can do, and what helps immensely, is to first ditch your factory dust boots at the knuckle-end TREs and replace them with the polyurethane ones from Prothane (P/N 19-1714-BL for the black ones our IDI runs), then right on top of them you drop a single 5/8" washer (it's 11/16" ID but may need reaming up to 3/4" ID, do some test-fitting there). The idea is for the washer to preload the poly dust cup against the TRE body - the cups have pretty thick top wall and will act very much like that rubber spacer you added next to "The Cure", they will increase the load that's needed to cause angular deflection in these TREs effectively preventing the center link from twisting without restricting it from the motion it needs to be performing while steering goes from lock to lock. And with "The Cure" in place you actually need fairly little preload on the outer TREs to keep the center link from twisting, so don't go overboard on the washers, with MOOG-style TREs you shouldn't need more that two standard SAE (not USS) washers per side (we run one and it's plenty enough).

 

[riotwarrior]

Bad idea:

1) what you did was alright, the joint between the center link and the drag link mostly rotates around the shaft of the TRE as the suspension cycles, there is some angular deflection but it's minimal so you're in the clear.

2) the end on the pitman arm must absolutely NOT get this setup, ever - it also turns around the TRE shaft however that is during steering action only, the moment the suspension starts cycling up and down you get some pretty large angular deflection, that is why good TREs for that location actually have 2-stage internals - the ball of the shank is wrapped with a hollow ball, and the hollow ball is then wrapped with the TRE body, this allows for more angular deflection without risking the shank ball pulling out of the TRE body.

3) the TREs at the knuckles mostly do rotate around their shanks as well during steering, and they do not care what the suspension is doing, so it does kinda look like a single-plane motion there... But it's not. There is angular deflection going on, it's caused by the caster and camber of the knuckles with respect to the plane the center link travels in - as you're steering the end of the knuckle steering arm moving outboard rises and the end of the inboard-moving knuckle arm lowers, thus your entire center link also rotates slightly in vertical plane as well. You're looking at a scenario similar to the pitman arm TRE only not quite so severe - still, fairly solid angular deflection limiters are not advisable for these TREs.

What you can do, and what helps immensely, is to first ditch your factory dust boots at the knuckle-end TREs and replace them with the polyurethane ones from Prothane (P/N 19-1714-BL for the black ones our IDI runs), then right on top of them you drop a single 5/8" washer (it's 11/16" ID but may need reaming up to 3/4" ID, do some test-fitting there). The idea is for the washer to preload the poly dust cup against the TRE body - the cups have pretty thick top wall and will act very much like that rubber spacer you added next to "The Cure", they will increase the load that's needed to cause angular deflection in these TREs effectively preventing the center link from twisting without restricting it from the motion it needs to be performing while steering goes from lock to lock. And with "The Cure" in place you actually need fairly little preload on the outer TREs to keep the center link from twisting, so don't go overboard on the washers, with MOOG-style TREs you shouldn't need more that two standard SAE (not USS) washers per side (we run one and it's plenty enough).

Thank you!