Stick with it, don't let them throw you off. You are correct, the key is cranking the engine, so the famous actuator piece that breaks is not the problem.Look, I'm just trying to learn here. If you don't mind telling me, I do not understand what is "broken" here. How is that push button any different than what I already have? I have power to the FSS and I am causing the engine to reliably crank when I turn the key? In my mind the key is doing what it is supposed to do (provide power to the FSS and engage the starter). The only thing I can think is when I crank the engine with the key, it cuts power to the FSS for some reason - I haven't had the ability to check this as I need a second set of hands - one to turn the key to "start" and one to measure voltage on the FSS connector.
Are y'all hinting that the "slider" or "actuator" is cutting power to the FSS when I turn the key to start?
I appreciate you telling me that the push button is supposed to help with starting the truck but I do not understand "why", without that "why" I can't fix this.
If you want to try another experiment, get a jumper wire and hook one end to the battery +, and hook the other end to the IP fuel solenoid. As you mentioned before, it should click when you do this. Then get in the truck and crank it with the key and see if it starts. If it does, it's obvious the IP fuel solenoid is not getting power when the ignition switch is in the "start" position. As a good guess, I would replace the ignition switch, which is behind the dash mounted on top of the column. Take the bolts out of the column to the dash and let the steering wheel down and rest on the seat. Then you should be able to see the ignition switch easier.