Crank and piston color

[TurboDan]

Crank rod journals show heat discoloration and the pistons…how can they be that clean? Truck has around 250k on it, I don’t really know it’s history.

Thoughts? Factory or rebuilt at some point? Should the pistons have ford markings or IH markings on them I can identify?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I'm no engine builder but why not just pull a cap and see what it looks like? Those pistons are pretty...maybe you got an engine where the PO actually changed the oil on the regular!

 

[ifrythings]

The heat marks you see on the crank are from the hardening process they do, it’s completely normal.

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[TurboDan]

Ok, good to know. Thanks! Any idea what the crank weighs and what a bare block weighs? Wondering if I can get a bare block into my car without help.

 

[Randy Bush]

I would do that by myself. Crank is not to bad , but block is heavy.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I agree even though Randy forgot a word. Get help with the block. It's not worth the risk of hurting yourself trying to lift it without help.

 

[Randy Bush]

I meant would not. Long day and tired tonight.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I knew what you meant, but I still wanted to poke a little fun too.

 

[TurboDan]

The heads are pretty heavy. I’m not sure if the head on a 7.3 idi is heavier than an FE intake manifold. Both are heavy

 

[TurboDan]

I was shocked when I pulled the intake, I was prepared for cast iron but I got aluminum

 

[Big Bart]

Don't get me started on those FE steel manifolds, frigging boat anchors.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I was shocked when I pulled the intake, I was prepared for cast iron but I got aluminum

Years ago, I had the opposite experience. While I was working on these for a living, the boss bought a Chevy truck with a 350 that needed to have the heads replaced. I had worked on so many IDIs that I grabbed the 350 intake manifold out of the parts washer with one hand (out of habit) and almost dropped it on the floor. I just barely managed to grab it with the other hand before it fell. I NEVER made that mistake again. Now I always use both hands to pick up an intake manifold no matter what engine it came off of.

 

[snicklas]

Not sure on a bare block... but I remember a picture of a couple of cranks on a bathroom scale (I think it was in a possible difference between a 6.9/7.3/7.3T cranks) and I think the cranks were 80-90 lbs each.....

 

[Randy Bush]

Don't get me started on those FE steel manifolds, frigging boat anchors.

Most people didn't ,but when installing the manifold you did not tighten down the heads until after the manifold was tightened to the heads then the whole until was torqued.

 

[Big Bart]

Like IDI heads, many machine shops do not know how to surface a FE head (Avoid when possible/not needed.) and then match the FE manifold so it still aligns up.

Back in the 90's I took my brothers 390 heads to a machine shop. He blew the headgasket on the passenger side. The guy surfaced them, but he took off a bunch, and the manifold would not even seat due to the new lower V between the heads. Then I took the manifold back and said you need to shave it down. He did it on a belt sander holding it (I was not there to stop him.) and butchered my intake manifold because he did not know what he was doing. He said he tried to eyeball the angle.

I have never heard about doing the manifold to heads first, but that would make sense if they are not too out of alignment. Or at least get all the bolts started then tighten the heads down.

Now I suggest folks move to a aluminum intake from Eddlebrock or some other company. Cuts the weight down considerably and easier to machine if needed.