1993 7.3 IDI Naturally Aspirated CRANK no START after sitting 11 years.

chillman88

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If a lifter was indeed seized in the extended position, then the valve might not close. If that's the case you would have lower compression, but also if that's the case it's likely you may now have a bent valve because of the low clearance.

If a lifter was seized in the retracted position (no oil and fully compressed) then the valve would never open. I could see how that might give a lower reading due to a cylinder not being able to fill properly, but I really don't think it's very likely.

At this point I would do another leak down test to see if the valves are sealing correctly. As you're doing it I would watch the valves and make sure they're actually opening.

If the valves are working correctly and sealing correctly, I'd think it's time to pull the motor and re-ring it. I understand you're trying your best to avoid that, but if that's the issue then it'll need to be fixed.

Very important question you haven't yet answered yet is :
There was a couple cavitation spots in 2 cylinders but nothing serious

What did you mean by this??? If you have cavitation the block needs to be sleeved or replaced. If you meant rust pitting then that's fine.

I can smell and see the misty diesel fuel shooting out of the crankcase, oil fill hole

This lends itself to a piston ring problem. Some blowby is normal, but your compression numbers are far below normal.

I even got a new camshaft because old one was pitted

Odds are if your cam was in that shape the crank isn't much better, especially from having water in the oil. Even if you get it running, it may not last long. I'd want to inspect the crank bearings and journals and see what shape they're in. Hopefully you'll get lucky, but I'd hate to have all that work done and then spin a bearing.
 
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IDIBRONCO

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Here's another reason to replace the lifters that I didn't think of last night. Some of the lifters (maybe only two, but which ones?) sat for 11 years with pressure on them. That means that their internal springs are probably weakened to the point where they won't properly open the valves. The lifters depend on both their internal sparing and oil pressure to open the valves fully. Just compare the size of the valve springs to the size of the springs that could possibly fit inside the lifters if there's any doubt about that. Bigger springs means that they are stiffer and take more effort to collapse them.
 

SuperDave

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You guys all make good points about the lifters, they will stick an bend pushrods, break rockers and even bend valves because of bad lifters. Had a 6.9 in high school that kept bending pushrods and breaking rockers and I just kept replacing them because I had no idea why it was happening. Finally talked to an old diesel mechanic and he advised me change lifters and voila it fixed it. While my engine always ran I can see that this could also apply to the op's problem.
 

chillman88

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While my engine always ran I can see that this could also apply to the op's problem.

My fear is that there's no correlation between the two, but it's better to check now just in case. My money is on rings but who knows, maybe he'll get lucky.
 

SuperDave

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My fear is that there's no correlation between the two, but it's better to check now just in case. My money is on rings but who knows, maybe he'll get lucky.
I have no doubt in my mind after sitting for 11 years with milky oil that at least some of the rings are stuck so I definitely agree with you. That's why I originally told him penetrating oil and heat may get them unstuck. I definitely want to see this saga come to some sort of resolution.
 

Big Bart

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Many members suffer the effect of buying a IDI truck but have little to no history on it. So it can be tough to know where to start on a fuel issue or water in the oil. Even harder if parked and left for years.(Could have multiple issues From sitting.). But if you stay the course you will get them running with the help of all the members here.

I looked at a couple IDI’s before buying one. Two guys said it was xyz issue. I said can I try to start it? Both agreed to let me. One said injector pump, it had a rod knock, so that was a pass. The other said it was the starter, crank was locked up. So passed on it too. So it pays to confirm what they say is accurate.
 

SterlingCharles

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UPDATE:
THE TRUCK IS FINALLY UP AND RUNNING. What I would say that made this truck start was that I gotten rid of the marine commercial maybe “deep cycle batteries….they were big intimidating and useless. The only reason I was using that type of battery was because it what was in the truck when I bought it. So I thought I was going some hood by getting another used set. I also supplied fuel from jerry can instead of fuel tanks. I was able to get the truck to crank much faster with two normal top post batteries. I believe those batteries were the reason I would have limited cranking time before they would both die down.

After installing those batteries I also had the throttle half way vs full throttle like I’ve been doing. I’ve only cracked the injector lines once and instantly seen plenty fuel at all 8 lines. But it did take a minimum 30 seconds cranking time and a little ether and BOOM! She fired up!!! TONS OF BLACK & WHITE SMOKE (even got a little rats nest shot out of the exhaust pipe) Thanks to all you guys who gave your input in helping me get it running.
 
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SuperDave

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Well that's cool! I figured you would get it up and running again and I'm glad you updated and let us know you did!
 

SterlingCharles

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Well that's cool! I figured you would get it up and running again and I'm glad you updated and let us know you did!
Yes sir. You’re welcome and thank you. I had to make it my business to come and update because when I’m really in need and I’m reading other forums I hate when guys don’t come back and give reasons on how and why whatever their ending results were.
I really would love to upload a video so you guys can see it running but not sure why but all I’m allowed to do is photos here.

If you would like you can follow me on Instagram at: All N One Mechanics
And see several videos of it running.
 

DrCharles

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Glad to hear it after reading this whole thread :) ... Now, how well is it running? Adequate power? No coolant & oil mixing? Easy to start? Burning lots of oil? Strange noises? etc.
Would be interesting to see compression numbers now ;)
 

SterlingCharles

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Glad to hear it after reading this whole thread :) ... Now, how well is it running? Adequate power? No coolant & oil mixing? Easy to start? Burning lots of oil? Strange noises? etc.
Would be interesting to see compression numbers now ;)
Thank you! Well after running it for a while I was able to get it to run without ether but of course that’s with the jerry can. But it sounds like a beast. Very strong. I didn’t have any radiator or thermostat in so I didn’t run it too long but I can tell it was bleeding out any air from the jerry can.
 

SterlingCharles

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Okay so my next steps are to take the front cover back off to reseal it up because it was leaking once it started running. No problem because I’ve already done that about 6 times just to verify timing lol.

Then I have to get a brand new water pump, thermostat & power steering pump and paint it all up nice and good. Then I will get new upper & lower radiator hoses & ac compressors. After all that I’m thinking about replacing those lifter and pushrods now….because the rocker arms were pretty pitted and though I don’t wanna take all that stuff off AGAIN smh I might just drive the truck for a couple months then Replace the lifters and pushrods. I even already installed a brand new fuel return line kit. Ahhh bummer…But hey I gotta do what I gotta do if I want things don’t the right way.

After I get all the accessories and clean up the chassis I will just about halfway have a rebuilt engine minus new bearings and rings. I will be posting some pictures of the chassis once I finish painting and installing everything for you guys.
 

Old Goat

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You won`t have to replace the Fuel return Lines, IE buy a whole new kit. If you have to remove them or disturb them and they start to leak, you can just replace the "O" Rings.
Buy them in bags of 50.

On the left side of the page where it says "DASH NUMBER" type in 111 and they will come up.
$8.47 a bag.

Goat
 
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