Correct way to do rear main?

TahoeTom

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Did you remove the two bolts on the oil pan side? If it is loose it should come off easily. There will be lots of RTV holding it to the oil pan. You may need to run a knife in there to cut it loose.
 

Garbage_Mechan

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The one bit I can add to this is that over the years i have found a lot of leaks that seemed to be the rear main but werent. So now befor I tear anything apart I prove it. Pull the trans and flywheel. Put bolts back in holes in crakshaft flange. Rig up some fittings to put NO MORE THAN 5 psi (3 is good) air pressure in the crankcase (have to hook into the vent hose) . If you put too much the dipstick will fly out.... Now go over everything with soap solution. Last one I did I broke the "sleeve and seal must stay together" rule but installed it dry. The previous one had broken the seal beween the seal plate and pan / block from pounding in the seal. So I installed the seal in the plate and put the seal plate assy on with RTV. No leak now for a year or better. 3 psi in the crankcase will prove where it is.
 

jhenegh

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Used a butter tub this weekend to do mine, couldn't find any paper fast food cups! They're all foam now :mad: . Felpro seal with their sleeve. Just ever so lightly tapped the sleeve on with a small hammer and aviation form a gasket. I had to cut the heavy ring from the Ford/IH seal off that I had previously installed. Used a dremel tool very carefully and only barely nicked the crank flange in one spot.

Wish me luck. 3rd times a charm!
 

riotwarrior

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Used a butter tub this weekend to do mine, couldn't find any paper fast food cups! They're all foam now :mad: . Felpro seal with their sleeve. Just ever so lightly tapped the sleeve on with a small hammer and aviation form a gasket. I had to cut the heavy ring from the Ford/IH seal off that I had previously installed. Used a dremel tool very carefully and only barely nicked the crank flange in one spot.

Wish me luck. 3rd times a charm!

Good luck

Hope ya get it ok.
 

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