Cooling system question

[stumiister]

I have a 25 mile drive home when I got to about mile 20 the engine temp got on the hot side more than I think is normal, I pulled of the freeway and drove for a few blocks and noticed the engine temp went down to normal, then got back on the freeway to get home, I just checked the coolant level and it is full, could I have a bad thermostat or maybe a fan clutch or possibly both, is there maybe a bad head gasket, need some help please thanks. Also there is no water in the oil, or oil in the water and it does not smoke like its burning coolant or oil.

 

[Kevin 007]

Do you have an aftermarket gauge?? If not, get one. My factory gauge always reads hot, freaked me out when I got my truck. Don't trust em

 

[stumiister]

Thats funny you say that Kevin because my fuel guage doesnt work, the Ammeter guage is broken, the oil pressure reads 0 psi at idle and the coolant temp I have no idea how accurate that is.

 

[Wyreth]

Is this the stock gauge? If so, it's not really telling you much. You really really need an accurate one to know what's really going on.

Now Have you looked at the radiator for dirt or obstructions? It may be as simple as taking it to a carwash and powerwashing the AC condenser and radiator.

To test for a HG failure, they sell a kit that looks for combustion gasses in your coolant. Altho it really doesn't sound like that to me.

To test your thermostat, go get it nice and warm, then pull over and feel your radiator. If it's good and hot, then your thermostat is opening.

The fan is pretty simple, grab it and wiggle see if there is ANY play between the clutch and shaft. If there is, replace it! Then, with the winter temps, block up some of your rad (do be careful not to ACTUALLY overheat your truck doing this) Then go for a HARD drive, if you have a heavy trailer to tow you shouldn't need to block the rad. Long about 220* or so, a small hurricane should start under your hood. You will hear it! It's a good idea to clean off the spring on the front of your clutch periodically anyway. (I use either simple green or brake cleaner, depending on what's close) There's prolly better ways to test the fan, but that's what I generally do.

Personally it sounds to me like your rad may be starting to go. As that's EXACTLY what my truck did to me before I ended up having to replace the rad.

 

[stumiister]

Wyreth yes it is the stock guage, I replaced the radiator about 4 months ago with a 2 row instead of a 4 row which I am begining to regret, Ill pressure wash the condesor and the radiator tomorrow, the fan clutch bearing feels good but I wondering about the proper operation of the clutch itself, because when it gets hot I cant hear the engine fan turn at the engine speed im driving at.

 

[Wyreth]

wait wait wait, you're running a two row copper rad? That nowhere near enough cooling capacity for these trucks.

Clean the spring on the front of the fan clutch, if it gets dirty or oily it will cause the fan to engage at a much higher temp.

 

[riotwarrior]

........I replaced the radiator about 4 months ago with a 2 row instead of a 4 row.....

Please explain this..do you mean you replaced the rad with another 2 row copper rad? Or what are you saying?

Ill pressure wash the condenser and the radiator tomorrow

I don't recommend this with older condensers and rads, it can force material into cooling tubes or even blow them apart, be cautious of doing this if you choose to do this.....I've seen many a rad and a few condensers destroyed with good intention of cleaning as the OP blows it to bits!

the fan clutch bearing feels good but I wondering about the proper operation of the clutch itself, because when it gets hot I cant hear the engine fan turn at the engine speed im driving at.

YOU cannot tell what hot is until you have a decent aftermarket gauge on that truck, those fans start to kick in in the 190's IIRC someone will confirm....and if all your gauges are not functioning or are functioning poorly, then you have no basis to make a judgement as above.

Is your rad the Wide short one or the Tall narrow one....37" wide or about 31" wide?

Aluminum or Copper rad? Or aluminum and plastic?

 

[RLDSL]

if thats a 2 row copper, that would be the same as a factory rad that was 50% clogged and would describe your heat behaviour perfectly, if its a large 2 row aluminum , then thats another story

 

[Hydro-idi]

^^^A 2 row radiator will NOT be adequate for these engines. You will continue to have overheating issues if you keep that rad in your pickup. A 3 row aluminum rad, or a 4 row copper rad are the only options for these large engines.

 

[stumiister]

The radiator is a direct replacement of the OE 4 row copper radiator, the orginal radiator was in bad shape so I got a aftermarket radiator that is a 2 row, thisis what I installed, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_01386_1123928_2769&pt=01386&ppt=C0331

 

[Mulochico]

When you did your radiator did you do the thermostat? if so, did you replace it with a Motorcraft or one from O'Reilly? If it is one from O'Reilly and not a genuine Motorcraft (even if it looks like the Motorcraft) that could be contributing to the problem.

I did a replacement (3 bigger rows instead of 4 row) radiator and Motorcraft lookalike thermostat and had problems. Had the old radiator fixed, replace the thermostat with a Motorcraft, and (since I was having an ID(ten)t (IDIOT) moment and left the cowling off ) put the cowling back on... NO MORE PROBLEMS!!!!

My .02

 

[riotwarrior]

There are many different rads available for our trucks, Copper Brass, Aluminum Plastic, and Aluminum in configurations from a single core to dual core to triple core and quad or even five IIRC.

Most copper brass be the wide short or tall narrow are a 4 core IIRC maybe 5

Most all plastic aluminum from what I researched are HE (hi Efficiancy) and are two row core but quite a wide core width, 1" or there bouts.

There are quite a variety of all aluminum rads available too, Rodney Red (Premium) Champion nice stuff, and there are few others.

The one all aluminum I could get locally was a single core HE, and when I said I plan turbo, IC and AC and asked if it would suffice pulling 10K weight in 100 degree heat, they said ya! I burst out laughing on the phone litterally and just hung up....

I ended up with a Champion after reading many happy reports here.

I am not certain your rad is the issue for your cooling system.

Did you flush your system prior to installation of your new rad?

Have you retained the shrowd?

There are a few questions to ask, once you answer the ones already asked

Al

 

[stumiister]

The thermostat is the orginal one that came with the engine, I have a extra fan clutch that I will change out today to see if that helps.

 

[stumiister]

I have a funny feeling that the problem is the fan clutch because i cant hear the fan come on and off while driving

 

[idiabuse]

Squeeze your lower radiator hose by hand, if you can squeeze it shut, you can be sure it will suck closed at hwy speeds causing over heating and possible piston failure.


Javier