Cold start issue after new injectors

[slyhog022056]

Last week i put in new conestoga injectors and had to remove the entire ip with cover to attempt to seal the leaking cover. i scribed a mark so it went back in the same position. not so hard. ever since i changed injectors it wont start cold at all. it starts right up the dies as if it was out of fuel. I have 6 psi into the fuel filter. no amount of cranking will get it to fire up, hitting the glow plugs helps sometimes and ether is of no help at all.
Could it be that since i have new injectors the timing is too advanced?? I had it set about 1/8 inch with the line on the pump turned toward the passenger side before. I know when it runs now it runs and drives great. no more knocking but does have a diesel rattle all the time except under load. My mileage went from 10 to 16. even with 5 batteries i@ 1050CCA each in the truck it wont start.
HELP Also does anyone know anybody in the Dallas / FtWorth area with the ferret adapter and timing set to check it with? I have tried messaging the only one in the timing registry (Firehawk) but cnat get an answer.

 

[Thewespaul]

Timing. You’ve jumped a tooth or two, you’re gonna have to spin that pump around until you’ve found where it’ll start. I’m north of San Antonio so you’re welcome to bring the truck down and I’ll get a timing meter on it, I know @Trevtron has a meter now and he’s near Houston. I would try retarding it first and see if it starts

 

[slyhog022056]

When i removed the timing cover i scribed a mark where the dowel pin is with the 3 bolts on the edge of the cover. it went back in in the exact same place, well it did seem like it, will have to pull the cover again anyway, that damn thing is hell to keep from leaking oil. i go thru a quart every 150 to 200 miles and it is all from that damn cover. does anyone make a gasket for it? I thought i had seen a metal gasket for it somewhere but damned if i can find it again. I know regular gasket material wont work becaust it will be too thick and put a lot of slop in the gears meshing.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Ultra gray rtv on the IP tower. Sealed many without a leak.
I was able to take a paint pen and mark both gears. Using a flashlight, you can mesh the two gears together and see your paint marks to verify it’s correct. Works like a charm for me.

 

[Thewespaul]

You probably saw the valley pan gasket, that’s metal but it doesn’t seal the timing cover. Getting those gears back together can be tough, but even if you they went back together correctly your truck needs to be retimed since the injectors were replaced. Try taking off the plug for the cold advance solenoid and see if it will start, it will retard your cold start timing 2*

 

[slyhog022056]

My leak is definitly the tower cover, leaks on every side, i will try the ultra grey. Now then, may have a leak on the valley pan at the back or a valve cover gasket because i get blowby smoke from back there somewhere, not tearing off the intake to see if its the valley pan but i will change the valve cover gaskets. The heads had been milled at some point but they didnt mill the intake to fit correctly.
If i remember correct when i tore the top end down to do head gaskets i THINK it marked tdc on the cam gear, the y on the pump gear is the easy part. been sitting thinking i may have been off a tooth, i remember which way i need to turn it to go 1 tooth. i know there are lots of posts but where should the dowel pin be at tdc so i can see if i can tell when i pull the cover again... what a pain...again. my cold advance doesnt work, never has...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The dowel pin is about at the 4:00 position at TDC.