Hi gentlemen!, I have a 1990 F-350 5 Speed hydraulic clutch system. Clutch takes hold about an inch off of the floor. I have checked both master and slave cylinders, no fluid leakage in boots, no fluid loss in reservoir, no starting to creep when clutch is held down, bushing is good at clutch linkage under the dash, very very little flex at firewall. Any ideas? Any way to adjust anything to get more pedal? Clutch pedal comes all the way up to stop as it is supposed to when you take foot off of pedal... hard to get in gear, grinds usually going into reverse...
Clutch Help!
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
How about a little more info? Did you (or somebody else) do some clutch work? If so, what was done? Did it just start doing this? Was it suddenly or gradually?
My first thought is that there's some air in the clutch hydraulics. If there hasn't been any part replacements maybe that's not it.
My first thought is that there's some air in the clutch hydraulics. If there hasn't been any part replacements maybe that's not it.
Check the linkage on the pedal. On mine the first time I thought clutch was going, it was that linkage cracking slowly, so when I was pushing my pedal, it was not actually pushing in the rod into the slave cylinder entirely. Of course I ignored it, and it popped and I had to get towed. I got the replacement tip from a machinist in eBay that makes them so you don't have to remove the slave cylinder at all.
Also the firewalls crack, but you probably knew that one already
Also the firewalls crack, but you probably knew that one already
So did the tip of the rod on the slave cylinder crack and break? Or the master cylinder? I found an adjustment rod for the slave cylinder, havnt gotten it yet, not sure if slave cylinder has to be removed to install or if i can just pull clutch throwout lever back and install....
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The shaft above the pedals has bushings inside it. Those may be bad. You probably do have to remove the slave cylinder to install the new shaft.
Ive checked all the bushings , they seem ok, actually looks like a relatively new master cylinder. Why does a new slave cylinder come with a strap on the rod to kerp it in? Whats going to happen when i pull the slave rod out to see if i can put the adjustable one in?
aggiediesel01
Full Access Member
As I recall the straps across the nose of the slave cylinder are to aid in holding it compressed while installing it to the transmission housing and then to provide a bushing for the point of contact with the throw-out fork. Your throw-out fork pivot may also be worn or if the clutch has been serviced the fork may not have been reinstalled correctly on the pivot. There are a couple spring steel fingers that clip around the pivot and if only one is caught it can throw off clutch engagement. The most common issues with clutch engagement start at the bushings in the pedal cross over arm and then the snap in bushing to master cylinder rod, then air in the system, then cracks in the firewall, then issues mounting the slave cylinder and clutch fork.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
They are also very nice to have when pulling the engine out. You can put them back into the slots in the slave bracket and keep the arm from extending while there's no pressure on the pivot arm. If the slave arm is extended when you try to put the engine back in, you have to be careful or you can break the slave cylinder. Those plastic straps will also snap if you forget to unhook them and then step on the clutch pedal.
