Clutch and IP Questions

L.Wilkinson

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Mel, I'm pretty sure its going to take someone mentioning a B series Cummins to get the ball rolling. :yell:
I think I heard that IHC is going to use them in class 8 trucks soon, as they are so strong that you can haul a lot more weight than most people figure up the steep continuous grades here in B.C.:fight:
 

argve

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Remember the mark of a good running IDI is

was following behind a F-250 ext cab 4x4 with 6.9 power the person that owns the truck is building a house here and is from the states somewheres. Anyhow I was behind him today his truck belched so much black smoke out the tail pipe it was unbelievable. I know my truck doesn't do that it belches blue smoke like a diesel should.

Damn I guess I have never had a good running IDI or diesel for that matter because none of mine have ever bleched blue smoke... Not even my mighty 6bt does that... Which pulls like a vilotated primate.
 

L.Wilkinson

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Mel, the hills are extremely steep here, uphill both ways:popcorn
Back to the 5.9, I had 60psi manifold pressure on a test run last year :peelout , why not save your money and try one class 8?;Really

(pause for comments -Flame Thr )

I'm stopping now to check over my shoulder

(vilotated primate:music:
 

The Warden

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Originally posted by Agnem
Remember, BC is special, and a much harsher enviroment than anywhere else in the world, so don't hesitate to emphasize that. :rolleyes:
This didn't come from KW/Pacific himself...I don't remember who it was, but it was somewhere in General Diesel on TDS, and unfortunately, the thread got deleted.

Ahh, BC, the land of KW, where men are men and sheep are scared...
 

Pacific

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Nothing but a bunch of smart *** people with nothing better to-do but bash me this what I say to that :moon:

Anyhow I'am not even going to bother getting into battles about the B series Cummins I really don't give a **** anymore simple as that :)

As for wwrabbit's truck if it does have only 200,000kms chassis kms with a rebuilt engine he should get 100,000kms before the truck itself costing money.

The biggest problem is rust which is pretty hard to stop I don't imagine its hard to avoid the salt air on the Island.

The reason why I said if he gets another 100,000kms out of the truck is usually it will take 4-5 years of driving to put that on a truck.

I have had my truck for 2 and a bit years now and only put 16,000kms on it. Most of those kilometers was from a job I had during the summer it was a 72km (45 mile) commute a day. Burned about 386 litres (102 us gal) of fuel per month in the 5 months the old 7.3 consumed 1939 litres (510 us gal) diesel which cost me 1628 dollars roughly.

The truck wore out a set of Rough rider M/Ts (Big O X/T) in a short 13,000kms (8078 miles).

Would I buy a IDI again probably considering a gasser again with the price of diesel up to 98.9 cents per litre or 3.65 dollars CND for US gallon. The price for regular gas is 89.9 or 3.32 dollars per gallon.

When your truck only gets 10 mpg its slightly expensive on fuel especially with it up to 98.9 cents per litre. If I had my old 460 truck it would only cost 45 cents per hour more than my IDI the way the price of diesel is now.

Anybody that owns a diesel P/U is b*tching about the price of fuel.
 

wwwabbit

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:yell: I got the truck today!

Took it for a very short run down the street before I parked it... :peelout more power then I remember when I was looking at it

Anyway I am going to dig into it tomorrow and start changing fluids, and going over what needs to be done... maybe even wash it to get the green off it....
 

Pacific

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The first thing I would do is change the engine oil and filter the most important fluid in the engine. I have been using Petrocan Duron 15w40 I'am liking it better over the Delo 400 I was using.

A 5 gallon pail does about 2 oil changes it cost me around 56 dollars.

Make sure that truck is presentable the RCMP/DOT is out picking on people I know they are in this area. With the RCMP having DOT power they can pull you over and send you off for a inspection. Ohya they are trying to tell people you can't have any oil drips or leaks the underside of the vehical can't be greasy :rolleyes:

Good luck with the truck I hope the price of fuel on the Island isn't up to 98.9 cents like it is here talk about rip off.
 

L.Wilkinson

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Well, good luck with your truck.
I guess there's no need to continue to bring up the merits of the 5.9 engine then either, If you have acknowleged its superior pulling power there Pac (KW). I can vouch for the fact of several units @ 70,000lbs with them as power, nothing out there that can touch them. That's it though, not going to bring that up again.;Lick
 

Pacific

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The viberatory compactor I'am working with this week I'am pretty sure is a 4 cylinder Cummins its pegged to gov (2800rpm) all day.

Do I beleive in the 5.9s ratings no but thats my opinion I'am back to working with trucks with 855 Big cams those are real Cummins sobeit they are only 400hp. One of them smokes so bad you figure there is a fire it blows heavy blue hot or cold.
 

wwwabbit

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Well, here she be... I only got around to washing 1/2 of it today, that is why the cab looks much better then the box/canopy.

Oh ya, my mistake, it's a '90 not a '91.

Already had some guys stop and look at it.... they were looking for a truck, saw that it was diesel, un-insured, and looking like it had been sitting for a while... offered me more then I paid for it... I was tempted, but I knew it would be hard to find something like this again.... I had not even had it sitting in my yard for 24 hours... geesh.


Anyway, a few more questions,

Capacities....
How much engine oil does this thing hold?
How much trans fluid should the 5spd hold (and what is recomended to put in it?)
How much oil should the rear end take (regular 80w90 gear oil is OK for that?)
How much coolant does this thing hold? (I read some where on hear to get the Cat long life antifreeze as it has all the additives, is that correct?)

I got my axel code off the door as "35" so I know I have the 4.10 gears in it, any idea if they came with a limited slip or anything fancy like that?

Also, Springs "H3F" (that means what?)

Trans "C" (I am guessing the ZF 5spd from what I have found so far...)

Last question for now... The clutch, feels like it's not coming up all the way, the clutch disengages right at the floor, or very close to it, and when you let off the pedal, it comes up about 75% of the way on it's own, but if you reach down and give it a lift up it comes up to about level with the brake pedal. Is this normal? could it just need to be blead? He said pilot bearing, clutch, and flywheel all have about 20,000km on them, so that should all be good (I hope)

It came with all the owners manulas, except the diesel engine guide... is there anything in there that I should be aware of?

:thanks: for all the help!
 

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The Warden

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* How much engine oil does this thing hold?

10 quarts of oil, assuming you use the original oil filter. It is possible to use a filter from a Powerstroke in place of the original filter, without any modifications. It'll be a somewhat tight fit, but it'll go. This will give you an extra quart of capacity, and extra filter area.

*How much trans fluid should the 5spd hold (and what is recomended to put in it?)

I'm not sure on the capacity, but the ZF5 uses automatic transmission fluid. IIRC, gear oil will shorten its lifespan considerably.

*How much oil should the rear end take (regular 80w90 gear oil is OK for that?)

I'm not certain. You should have a Ford 10.25 axle, and all of my books only cover the Dana axles that were standard equipment before mid '85. The Dana 70 holds 6.6 pints of oil; I imagine that the Ford 10.25" will be similar.

*How much coolant does this thing hold? (I read some where on hear to get the Cat long life antifreeze as it has all the additives, is that correct?)

The 6.9l holds 29 quarts originally. I think it's a safe assumption that the 7.3l is the same. Re: Cat antifreeze, there are reports out there that it'll eat oil cooler O-rings unless the O-rings are fairly new. I did a top-end rebuild on my engine last summer, and also replaced the oil cooler O-rings...so I decided to switch to the Cat antifreeze, and I've been realyl happy with it thus far. BUT, based on the reports mentioned above, I'd be wary unless the O-rings are recent.

That said, whatever antifreeze you use, you should get a low-silicate antifreeze, and then get an additive known as SCA or DCA. Ford sells it; it's known there as FW-16 (or at least it was; that may have changed). This additive will help prevent cavitation.

*I got my axel code off the door as "35" so I know I have the 4.10 gears in it, any idea if they came with a limited slip or anything fancy like that?

Limited slip was an option, but it doesn't look like you have it. I'm not sure what Code 35 is (again, all my books are for Dana axles, and the Ford axles use different codes), but if it had limited slip from the factory, the first number would be a letter instead. For instance, the Dana 70 (with limited-slip) in my truck is Code G2. The code for the exact same axle, but without limited slip, is 72.

I don't think there's anything critical that you need to know in the diesel supplement, but someone else may be able to answer that better...I've been around diesels enough that, between the prior knowledge and what's on this site (and the site that pre-dated this one), there wasn't anything I needed out of the supplement that I didn't already know...even though I have it sitting here *lol*

Re: the clutch, not sure if '87-'91 trucks have the same problem that '80-'86 trucks did, but on an '80-'86 truck, that can be the indication of a cracked firewall. The firewall wasn't built as strongly as it should be, in the area where the clutch master cylinder is. When the firewall cracks because of too much pressure, the pedal will become harder to push down and you'll get symptoms as you described. Another possibility (actually, this one is supoprted by the pedal not wanting to come up all the way) is that either you're right and the clutch hydraulics need to be bled, or the master or slave cylinder's on its way out. Hopefully the hydraulic system's okay; bleeding it out is a cast-iron PITA!

The clutch master cylinder is just to the passenger's side of the brake master cylinder, and there should be a rubber diapharam covering the resevoir when you pull the cap (standard screw-on deal). The diapharam's deep enough that it'll look like you're looking at the bottom of the resevoir. Pull the diapharam out before you put brake fluid into the master cylinder; otherwise it'll sit in the diapharam, make it look like the system's full, but won't actually do anything.

Hope that helps...good luck! And the front end of the truck looks nice; I imagine that the bed and cap will clean up just as well...
 

Pacific

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For the transmission you drain the old ATF out and refill it till it pours out the fill hole same with the diff. The rad you should mix the coolant roughly 50-50 I forget how many litres it holds the most important part is get the coolant additive in the coolant to keep you becoming a cavitation victim.

Cambodian tire has good coolant for diesels its in a orange jug it says diesel on it I'am using it.

The engine will take 8 litres easy then check the level add more oil to top it up. Make sure you buy a good filter either factory Ford or a Wix stay away from the orange POS (Fram). Change the plug washer those nylon washers cause loose oil plugs I forget the size if you can get the copper ones even better.

The low clutch pedal might be air it is a real pain in the *** with mine we ended up bleeding it as best as we could then let the bubble work themselves out. Fords hydraulic slave is a poor design. Hows the fluid level in the Master cylinder for the clutch and does it look silvery if so that means aluminum shavings.

The old trucks pre hydraulic had return springs on the clutch pedal to push the pedal back were its supposed to be I can't remember if our trucks have them. I never did look close enough when I changed my slave cylinder.

The one thing you may curse is that rotten clutch safety switch which required you to push the clutch in before the truck starts. Mine is dangling under the dash I modified it so I don't need to push the clutch in to start.

When you get some extra cash get the rust spots sanded up and slap some white Endura on the truck it will look good.
 

argve

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On the 91MY trucks if the axle code was alpha numeric then it was limited slip if only numeric then it was an open diff. I would suppect that it's the case for the 90MY.

Get 6 gallons (US) for the cooling system (this is a mixed ready to use amount).

As Tim said make sure you either have DCA on hand to add or get it mixed in the coolant already - pre-charged coolant.
 

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