Clutch and IP Questions

[wwwabbit]

Originally posted by The Warden
[B*How much trans fluid should the 5spd hold (and what is recomended to put in it?)

I'm not sure on the capacity, but the ZF5 uses automatic transmission fluid. IIRC, gear oil will shorten its lifespan considerably.
[/B]

What kind of ATF, just the normal Dextron 2 or 3 or what ever it is?

Thanks for all the info! it's a big help. Now to get working on it... looks like real work is going to take up my week this week... on the weekend I hope to dive into finishing off the washing, and starting on the brakes. I filled up the brake fluid reservoir as it was VERY close to empty... pumped a few times and heard the squishing sound from behind the front tank... looks like I am doing all the brake lines as well

 

[towcat]

whichever flavor of the latest dexron, you'll do fine. important thing is that you remove the fill plug on the side of the trans and stay away from the allen bolts closest to where the case splits. I just got a call from a guy who played with those two bolts and he will now have to pull the trans. the reverse idler gear is held up by those bolts.

 

[Pacific]

I'am not surprised about the brake lines they don't last long especially with the salt air and road salt during the winter.

The common place for them to-go is behind the fuel tanks also while your on the while your at it list replace the rear brake hose you may want to check the rear brakes too.

As for washing the truck squirt some soap on it and let the heavy rains we are susposed to get wash the truck

You will have these little nit picky things to deal with but once done you will most likely have a fairy trouble free truck.

As for ATF any type will do you will have to figure out a way of pumping or squeezing the oil into the fill hole.

 

[wwwabbit]

Well, figured I would start at the front and work my way back....

Pulled the front end apart today, one caliper and one disk need replacing for sure, as well as the flex lines to the calipers, and new pads. Going to price them all out, as long as it does not hurt too badly, I might do both calipers and disks. Bearings and the surfaces looked good, but depending on their prices I might as well do them too.... Going to go shopping on Monday and see what I can get priced out.

I was looking at the clutch, and I can't see any cracks in the firewall, and everything seems solid. I am going to get a light and take a good look at the pedal assemby under the dash.... It does seem like the pedal has no preasure on the clutch, so it is fully coming up as far as that is concirned... it would be nice to have the clutch grab a little higher though, it is grabbing just off the floor. I don't know what to expect, but I hope to find some kind of adjustment or something of the sort....

But on that note, how do you blead the clutch?? I can't seem to see any kind of nice bleaders or anything... At least it's external slave and you can get your hands on it.

Next stage, drop the front tank and attack the rear brake lines (might be a nice excuse to get a good double flare kit )

 

[The Warden]

Originally posted by wwwabbit
Going to price them all out, as long as it does not hurt too badly, I might do both calipers and disks.

Umm...maybe I'm reading it wrong, but it sounds like you're thinking about only doing the calipers and disks on one wheel. I was told that you should always do brakes in pairs. If you're going to replace one disk, you should at least turn the other one...and I would definitely replace both calipers. Just my $.02

But on that note, how do you blead the clutch?? I can't seem to see any kind of nice bleaders or anything... At least it's external slave and you can get your hands on it.

There's an allen-head screw sunk in to the slave cylinder, just in front of the point where the line goes in. You'll have to loosen and tighten the screw and get drenched in brake fluid while a friend operates the pedal. Have I mentioned yet that it's a PITA? IIRC, you won't get it 100% of the way, and the last little bit will work its way up to the top...but it's been a while since I've done it...

 

[wwwabbit]

Originally posted by The Warden
Umm...maybe I'm reading it wrong, but it sounds like you're thinking about only doing the calipers and disks on one wheel. I was told that you should always do brakes in pairs. If you're going to replace one disk, you should at least turn the other one...and I would definitely replace both calipers. Just my $.02

Ya, I am definatly doing pads on both sides, but it's weird though, night and day between the two sides.... I think it's like this because one side was replaced and the other side was not... drivers side looks close to new, pistons have nice good soft dust seals on them, it all looks in good shape, disk has next to no wear on it. Passanger side, pfft whole other story, cracked and hard dust boots on the caliper, looks well rusted around where the boots are on the piston, looks like the caliper stuck and the inside pad is gone through about 1/2 of the metal backing plate the inside 1/2 of the disk is about 1/2 the thickness of the outside, the outside pad was down to the rivets and is all gouged up on the outside of the disk as well.

But ya I should look at doing both sides, at least then I know for sure that it's all new and good.

There's an allen-head screw sunk in to the slave cylinder, just in front of the point where the line goes in. You'll have to loosen and tighten the screw and get drenched in brake fluid while a friend operates the pedal. Have I mentioned yet that it's a PITA? IIRC, you won't get it 100% of the way, and the last little bit will work its way up to the top...but it's been a while since I've done it...

Ahhhh, so yes, it's really nasty to do... gotcha.

 

[Pacific]

Bleeding the slave is a real and you have to make sure the M/C doesn't go dry or you have to start over again more

As for the brakes you do want to-do things in pairs have the rotors checked for thickness. If you say one side looks good compare it to the new one if its close then use it. If the new one and the good one are not that close buy 2 new rotors they are cheap.

The on thing about replacing everything in pairs is everything should wear evenly. The front brakes on P/U trucks do 80% of the stopping power so you do a good job the first time around it will last you 2 years atleast for brake pads and prolly 3-4 for the rotors and reman calipers.

 

[wwwabbit]

Well... I did a little shopping today... thank god for VISA
Rotors x2, calipers x2, pads x4, bearings(in and out, both sides), seals x2, flex lines x2, belts x3, pins to hold the calipers in x4.... that should get be going on the front end, I hope the rear is not as bad!
My price $556 cdn after taxes, I did go with the more expensive rotors and pads, so that added some to it.... retail cost was just under $900 for it all, I am glad I get a deal at the parts shop!

 

[Agnem]

Curious if you looked at Motorcraft. I just bought new calipers from my Ford dealer and they came with pads, springs, and retainers. Forget what I paid though. For me, there is no substitute for OEM parts.

 

[wwwabbit]

No, I didn't look at the dealer. Last few times I was in there I had to bring the lube...
I get some really good prices at a local parts store, they know me, I know them, they always have some good advice, and they want to help me save a buck where it is not going to effect the life of the part.
For a while there was no one making a fuel filter for my B4000... Ford had it for $80 some odd, Mazda had it for $75 some odd (same filter, same box) When I got the call one day letting me know they tracked some down and were getting some in, the $30 price tag for the same filter (different box, same part inside) had me doing the happy dance

Anyway, it's not that one part was too expensive, it was just getting them all at once, and for both sides that was the killer, it just kept on adding up....

 

[Pacific]

Yup if you deal with the Ford dealers be prepared to bring the KY because they are going to reem you ******* the price and it not going to be pretty.

I buy my brake parts through the local parts store that carry nothing but rabestos products.

Front brake pads for my F-Superduty are around 180 dollars I think Ford was around 190

 

[Agnem]

So your many thousand dollar truck isn't worth $10 extra for the best part?

 

[towcat]

Originally posted by Agnem
So your many thousand dollar truck isn't worth $10 extra for the best part?

mel-
dealer OEM ain't what they used to be. Calipers are remans, pads, well, they don't hide the fact that they no longer make their own friction material. Even hoses are sourced out these days and Furd relabels just like everyone else. Now, specific hard parts is another story. But even Visteon is considered non-Furd too. I've been in parts sales since I was 13 and these days with all the consolidations going on, you won't know what part brand you will buy the next time you walk into your favorite parts house, let alone if the part in the box is going to be of the same quality like the brand you bought from before.

 

[Pacific]

The best brake pads so far is Raybestos since the local parts shop has carried nothing but people are happy with the Raybestos products.

I used to use Bendix then the quality went down the crapper and got progessivly worse. The parts shop got rid of Bendix products completely.

When I phoned Ford they said they didn't have OEM pads they were some aftermarket pads :***:

It would have cost me a easy 15 dollars in fuel to go down to the Fraud dealer. The only time I deal with them now is when I can't get aftermarket parts.

They charged me 24 dollars each for Beru GPs I was a tad

When it comes to brakes I'am fussy I don't get cheap but I don't like to spend a ton more money if I don't have to. I also don't even bother trying to rebuild wheel and Master cylinders or calipers myself its not worth it. You buy reman parts 99% of the time they are good and last you a long time.

You do have to watch out for the rotors and drums you buy some are really cheap. The price of rotors and brake drums now are reasonable enough that you can buy new instead of trying to turn or lathe a warped disk or egg shaped drum.

 

[Agnem]

Calvin, I know what your saying, but I still feel the Motorcraft parts that I've seen are better quality. The water pump job I did for Charlie recently was a good example. Yea, it's hard to mess up a brake caliper, but unless you buy both brand X and Motorcraft at the same time, it's hard to convince people they are worth a few extra bucks. I don't doubt that some Ford dealers prefer to carry 3rd party parts since they probably don't want to stock the older stuff, and order it on an as needed basis just like Joe Schmoe the mechanic down the street. I'm glad I have the Ford dealer I have.