CDR Replacement and Misc

[Hydro-idi]

I believe there is some kind of weep hole on the bottom of these db2 pumps. When I bought my truck, my IP had been recently replaced so I haven't really messed with it which is why my IP knowledge may be a bit limited. I generally know how they work and that's about it lol. If the weep hole is leaking diesel fuel, the pump is telling you that it is in need of a rebuild. Like I said in your other thread, 24 years is harder on rubber seals than 44k miles is.
I would recommend auto-rx to anybody. This is a great product that has helped many idi owners. Even though the product isn't cheap....especially for someone like myself who bought 4 bottles for 2 treatments.....it has been proven to work very well.

 

[ZWilson07]

I believe there is some kind of weep hole on the bottom of these db2 pumps. When I bought my truck, my IP had been recently replaced so I haven't really messed with it which is why my IP knowledge may be a bit limited. I generally know how they work and that's about it lol. If the weep hole is leaking diesel fuel, the pump is telling you that it is in need of a rebuild. Like I said in your other thread, 24 years is harder on rubber seals than 44k miles is.
I would recommend auto-rx to anybody. This is a great product that has helped many idi owners. Even though the product isn't cheap....especially for someone like myself who bought 4 bottles for 2 treatments.....it has been proven to work very well.

hmm ill look into it, its just hard for me to really tell because of all the dirt and crud mix you know.

I guess I will have to wait for DGR to write back on the cdr down tube holding into the valley pan info.

Thanks for all the help though. Seems like most of my questions aren't ones you can just easily search through the forum for and find out all the specifics. I tried looking through a couple forums but ended up just posting a thread when I didn't find much.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I believe that CDR downtube can be found at your local international or ford dealer but don't quote me on that.
In regards to all the dirt and mess, I went to car wash place and used their pressure washer to clean my engine. I made sure my engine was cool and air intake was wrapped so no water got in it. It washed all the grease and crap off very nicely. That is another option for you. This will allow you to clean that valley pan and IP so you can find the leak easier. It could be the IP, return lines or the rubber olive that is on the hardline that screws into the center of the IP from the fuel filter base (fuel supply line).

 

[ZWilson07]

I believe that CDR downtube can be found at your local international or ford dealer but don't quote me on that.
In regards to all the dirt and mess, I went to car wash place and used their pressure washer to clean my engine. I made sure my engine was cool and air intake was wrapped so no water got in it. It washed all the grease and crap off very nicely. That is another option for you. This will allow you to clean that valley pan and IP so you can find the leak easier. It could be the IP, return lines or the rubber olive that is on the hardline that screws into the center of the IP from the fuel filter base (fuel supply line).

Howd you go about wrapping it to not get water in to anything?

I might look into that, atleast if anything might make it a little cleaner in there; id just be worried about getting it into the intake or down the cdr down tube or where the tube meets the valley pan.

Also do you know how the down tube seals to the valley pan? I dont see how anyone would even replace that with the intake still on, there literally is just hardly any room to see, have light, and work with tools to put a new one in and seal so thats why im wondering.

 

[Hydro-idi]

You will need to get that CDR and downtube fixed before doing so. I just got a ziplock bag and used a rubber band to put over air filter box inlet to keep the water out. I sprayed everything down with engine degreaser before using pressure washer and it worked well.

 

[ZWilson07]

You will need to get that CDR and downtube fixed before doing so. I just got a ziplock bag and used a rubber band to put over air filter box inlet to keep the water out. I sprayed everything down with engine degreaser before using pressure washer and it worked well.

I guess you didn't see my other post earlier but I have already put the original cdr back in. I never took the downtube out, the cdr just popped right off and I was able to press the cdr back down into the tube.

I was just curious how the downtube fits and all that so when I finally do put a new cdr back on im going to go ahead and replace that downtube just for added insruance, thats why im so curious.

 

[ZWilson07]

Also on the air filter note, is this piece supposed to be connected to anything or what is this for?

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I noticed this tonight when putting it all back together and there is obviously a small hole there now but I have no idea if thats supposed to be connected to anything, or have a hole, or why its angeled like that or anything.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I am not sure what the heck that is. My air filter is the same but it doesn't have that tube thing on it. Mine has been removed but still has hole on bottom of air filter bowl but the air filter covers it up so I haven't been concerned with it. I am thinking it was some sort of emission tube. You can remove it if you please.

 

[bbjordan]

That tube is simply a drain in case you get any water in the intake filter housing.

 

[Hydro-idi]

That tube is simply a drain in case you get any water in the intake filter housing.

Ohhhh learn something new everyday. Thanks for clarification.

 

[RLDSL]

I would go with a treatment of auto Rx for sure. Mileage isnt the issue here, but time. You can just about bet there is some varnish buildup in there from age, probably not much in the soot department or sludge, but it tekes very little varnish to gum things up., plus the auto rx will do wonders for the seals in that thing, it'll keep you from having to go into it for a long time.

 

[RLDSL]

Also you want to replace the rubber drain . That little fishmouth is supposed to stay closed and only let water drip out, you wind up sucking really hot air in the wrong direction if that is open like that

 

[Hydro-idi]

I would go with a treatment of auto Rx for sure. Mileage isnt the issue here, but time. You can just about bet there is some varnish buildup in there from age, probably not much in the soot department or sludge, but it tekes very little varnish to gum things up., plus the auto rx will do wonders for the seals in that thing, it'll keep you from having to go into it for a long time.

My thoughts exactly. I basicallly read every post you wrote in regards to auto-rx before I bought product so thanks RLDSL. I just wish there was another product similar to auto-rx that was cheaper so I could afford to run it in every oil change

 

[dgr]

Y your tube appears to be the one piece tube. If so, there is a grommet molded into the bottom of it. There is enough room togetback ththere if you get up in the engine. Don't be shy, she is a sturdy old gal.

If you stand on the driver side where you can see under the ip , you will see it dripping while running if the weep hole is weeping

 

[dgr]

Let me know if this picture works