Unless he(the Master) lives in the higher elevations, California has no cold temps....
can I prevent coking with WMO?
- Thread starter broncobilly_69
- Start date
Unless he(the Master) lives in the higher elevations, California has no cold temps....
The_Master
Registered User
Unless he(the Master) lives in the higher elevations, California has no cold temps....
Good one.
However I tend to classify winter as below freezing, and yes, where I live, The nights in the winter, and sometimes throughout the day do get below freezing. I am sure that some of you have run a lot colder than I do though, I had about a month where I was leaving for work in the morning with temps between 18-28degrees.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
I'm really curious if a twin tank system would help with coking in your case...
I'm in the process of plumbing my 2nd tank which will fuel my VE pumped 4bt with w80... However, I will be heating the fuel via flat plate heat exchanger... and I will only be running on oil when the engine is at temperature and out on the highway... not putting around town. I also have a water **** system which runs most of the time when on the highway which will help as well hopefully.
With all this in mind... I'm thinking that yes.. temperature has a direct effect on how the fuel burns... so if the engine isn't at operating temp, why feed it a fuel source that doesn't burn properly unless hot?
Heating the fuel, thinning it out and bringing it closer to its combustion temp should also help.
A bump in timing to help compensate for the slower burn rate of the oil.
I'm pretty bent on getting a clean burn on w80 from my 8 valve cummins... I've heard its possible on the 12 valve... some have great luck with it while others don't and I'm not sure why... but at least in my case, it only takes 20 minutes to pull/clean the injectors if all else fails.
Just some thoughts
-Chris
I'm in the process of plumbing my 2nd tank which will fuel my VE pumped 4bt with w80... However, I will be heating the fuel via flat plate heat exchanger... and I will only be running on oil when the engine is at temperature and out on the highway... not putting around town. I also have a water **** system which runs most of the time when on the highway which will help as well hopefully.
With all this in mind... I'm thinking that yes.. temperature has a direct effect on how the fuel burns... so if the engine isn't at operating temp, why feed it a fuel source that doesn't burn properly unless hot?
Heating the fuel, thinning it out and bringing it closer to its combustion temp should also help.
A bump in timing to help compensate for the slower burn rate of the oil.
I'm pretty bent on getting a clean burn on w80 from my 8 valve cummins... I've heard its possible on the 12 valve... some have great luck with it while others don't and I'm not sure why... but at least in my case, it only takes 20 minutes to pull/clean the injectors if all else fails.
Just some thoughts
-Chris
Blownoiler
Registered User
The twin tank idea certainly makes a lot of sense, getting a clean burn from a cold engine running waste oil is always going to be difficult (unless you live in the desert where the temps always over 100*F). I have considered designing a variable intake pipe, from the air cleaner to a heat source like the exhaust manifold to get warmer inlet air, along with a solenoid operated butterfly valve to shut off the pipe when the engine is sufficiently warmed up, a second pipe or teed-in pipe could then supply cool air to the airbox. There have been plenty of gasoline engines designed with this type of set-up over the years, I presume for emission purposes mostly.
The tuned intake I ran on my other car (a Toyota 2L.T. 2.4 litre) worked well with a 2 inch diameter pipe, which was around 5 feet long from the airbox to the atmosphere, and sucked air from the front of the vehicle, a small flare or bellmouth on the very end of the pipe can't do any harm either. This pipe length gave a noticeable gain at 3000 revs (cruise revs on the hyway), but each engine design is different so some experimentation is needed to find the ideal length.
The tuned intake I ran on my other car (a Toyota 2L.T. 2.4 litre) worked well with a 2 inch diameter pipe, which was around 5 feet long from the airbox to the atmosphere, and sucked air from the front of the vehicle, a small flare or bellmouth on the very end of the pipe can't do any harm either. This pipe length gave a noticeable gain at 3000 revs (cruise revs on the hyway), but each engine design is different so some experimentation is needed to find the ideal length.
Blownoiler
Registered User
That diesel kleen sounds like good gear, I wonder if it's available over here in Australia!
Sorry Master had to pull that one out, I think everyones location has its own problems.
I first read about the 2 tank system when reading about WVO, and how winter time operation is possible but little more tricky.
The 2 tank system depends how far you are driving, a 5 mile drive might not be enough.
I first read about the 2 tank system when reading about WVO, and how winter time operation is possible but little more tricky.
The 2 tank system depends how far you are driving, a 5 mile drive might not be enough.
The_Master
Registered User
2 Tank is probably the way to go. I just was hoping to get by with blending without too many mods to my truck.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Yes. Any diesel shop should have it.
Closest to you looks like Smits group Auckland or northern rivers diesel kleen in lismore. Neither seem that close.
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AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Most parts houses sell diesel kleen now... as does walmart, tractor supply, etc..etc.. its pretty easy to find really...
Silver or White bottle... silver is regular, white is winter... I think there is another... or you can buy it online cheaply enough.
-Chris
Silver or White bottle... silver is regular, white is winter... I think there is another... or you can buy it online cheaply enough.
-Chris
Blownoiler
Registered User
Thanks for looking that up , I'll check the local truck shops!
Blownoiler
Registered User
Ditto!!
Blownoiler
Registered User
I ran a two tank system on a couple of previous vehicles that were burning w.c.o., 2 kilometres of driving was when I could change over from diesel to veg, the veg system wasn't quite up to temp after this distance, but the engine usually was and ran well enough. 2 kilometres (approx. 1.6 miles) was also the purge distance when going back to diesel in preparation for the next mornings startup. I ran the fuel return line from the injector pump back into the main fuel line, so that the filter didn't have to flow a large rate of fuel through it, this helped a lot on very cold mornings when the veg oil didn't want to flow well. I forgot to switch back to diesel a few times, and had to start on cold thick u.c.o. a few times in freezing ambient temps, luckily I had a large battery installed and just had to crank the engine for around 1 minute to get the engine started which is not going to do the starter motor any good, but didn't kill it either. The fuel return loop works well if you install an air trap to catch the air bubbles which tend to accumulate fairly quickly.
EDIT: Here's a paper on injector coking if anyone is interested- http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:159595/FULLTEXT01.pdf
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Blownoiler
Registered User
While I'm passing on a few cheap but not nasty V.E. tips, (the tuned length aircleaner pipe with a bell mouth on the end situated in a high pressure area), there is another cheap mod that you guys might be interested in trying. The engine has to pump the exhaust gas through the turbo, and then out through the system into 14.7 pounds of ambient air pressure. If you can lower the ambient air pressure at the exhaust tip/end then the engine can breathe easier. This idea came from a performance book written by Smoky Yunich, the idea is to situate the tailpipe tip in a low pressure area. If you are familiar with the venturi effect, then you know that a pipe sticking out into the airstream will create a slight vacuum as the passing air flows around it, so a simple side exit pipe can create a small amount of vacuum when the vehicle is in motion. Cutting the side exit pipe on an angle creates a larger pressure drop (as does a larger diameter exhaust tip), or alternatively a manometer and length of hose can be used to find a suitable low pressure area. Some vehicle manufacturers already use one of the low pressure areas for this purpose, check out these pics-
http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201002/2009-triumph-sprint-st-5_600x0w.jpg
This mod is most effective at hyway cruise speeds, when there isn't a huge volume of exhaust gas to expel.
http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201002/2009-triumph-sprint-st-5_600x0w.jpg
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This mod is most effective at hyway cruise speeds, when there isn't a huge volume of exhaust gas to expel.
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