can I prevent coking with WMO?

[Brad S.]

Maybe someone has said this earlier in the thread, lessen the amount of wmo until the mixture doesn't coke up.
During the summer temps would help running a "stronger" mix...???
Not saying you'd have to run a 50/50 mix, but the cost of that is still better then $3.90/whatever a gallon.

 

[The_Master]

Odd that the water **** did nothing for it. What are EGTs running when the water **** is engaged? I'm curious if its cooling things down too much?

EGT's are lowered about 100-200DegF. So if I am running 1,000DegF I might see 850DegF with WI.
Right now we are above freezing so I have been running water only, no ****.

I am now trying my 50/50 mixture and the jury is still out. No smoke yet, and I am at 600miles.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Well... at least its easy to pull injectors. Lol

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[Armo]

Ill toss a few ideas out with the coking problem. I read a post about weaker injectors being more prone to coaking. Not just bad ones just injectors that pop at lower psi then usual or in one posters case just getting custom injectors with a higher pop pressure help a lot for him with alternative fuels
Also ive noted more carbon buildup even on regular diesel when not running enough injection timing in one of my tractors leading me to believe maybe you have slipped timing or maybe it needs bumped up.

 

[The FNG]

Ill toss a few ideas out with the coking problem. I read a post about weaker injectors being more prone to coaking. Not just bad ones just injectors that pop at lower psi then usual or in one posters case just getting custom injectors with a higher pop pressure help a lot for him with alternative fuels
Also ive noted more carbon buildup even on regular diesel when not running enough injection timing in one of my tractors leading me to believe maybe you have slipped timing or maybe it needs bumped up.

I agree that advanced timing helps and that a bad injector would coke up more. I just don't understand why a higher pop pressure would help. Seems more important to have an equal pop pressure all the way around.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Perhaps better atomization from the higher pressure?

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[Armo]

Perhaps better atomization from the higher pressure?

Thats the theory even if you are not running alternative fuels the higher pop pressure was improving mpg a little on pump fuel. If my injectors go south any time soon thats the route ill be going in the future.

 

[The FNG]

Got it! I'm pretty sure I've read that somewhere too. I think a lot of the veggi or svo guys run higher pressure injectors. I never really thought about why though.

 

[The_Master]

I saw an interesting trend the first time I pulled the injectors with the #2 being by far the worst, followed by #1 then the others...
The second time I pulled them, they were a lot more consistent with #2 actually being a tad cleaner than some of the others..

I was thinking that if one cylinder kept getting coked more than others, that may be due to less compression, or a wearing injector, but so far I have not seen any consistent results.

 

[The_Master]

One more question:
Coking on Injectors is one thing. You get smoke and it is nasty, no major harm done.

Has anyone in the WMO scene ever had major engine damage from WMO? Not injection system, but engine?
I am thinking coked rings, leading to cylinder scoring, injector coking leading to dripping fuel and melted pistons, etc...

Has anyone ever experienced (or heard of anyone who has) any permeant major engine damage from running WMO?

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I don't think you'll have to worry about the fuel dripping issue... as injectors don't coke shut. The carbon build up throws off the spray pattern which causes smoke, but the holes are always clear.. something about 3000+ psi injection pressure tends to keep the holes clean.

As far as rings go.. never heard of anything although many claim it can/will happen... but those are the same ones screaming that anything but d2 will kill your engine in short order. There are quite a few people on this forum with over 100k miles on alternative fuels... so without hard proof.. I typically don't put much into what those people say.

-Chris

 

[JPhauler87]

I have a Dodge ATF heat exhanger I was running as a fuel heater for a while. Haven't hooked it back up with the new motor but fully intend to. It seemed to run more smoothly and haze less at temp when using it. How's that for an uninformative post? Haha. I'll be sure to report back with the results when I get it hooked back up.

 

[Armo]

I saw an interesting trend the first time I pulled the injectors with the #2 being by far the worst, followed by #1 then the others...
The second time I pulled them, they were a lot more consistent with #2 actually being a tad cleaner than some of the others..

I was thinking that if one cylinder kept getting coked more than others, that may be due to less compression, or a wearing injector, but so far I have not seen any consistent results.

Im stunned no 2 was worse then the no 1 cylinder. Im assuming your doing this on the 12v listed in your signature. Reason being is the intake part of no 1 has a bit more obstruction giving it a bit less air. So it either tends to run hot or carbon up. No6 on mine ran hot the carbon was gray in that cylinder. Thats why some of these high powered 12v mill the cast in intake off and fabricate a custom intake or use an aftermarket head.

One more question:
Coking on Injectors is one thing. You get smoke and it is nasty, no major harm done.

Has anyone in the WMO scene ever had major engine damage from WMO? Not injection system, but engine?
I am thinking coked rings, leading to cylinder scoring, injector coking leading to dripping fuel and melted pistons, etc...

Has anyone ever experienced (or heard of anyone who has) any permeant major engine damage from running WMO?

Rings i have heard of nothing and i doubt we will considering the older diesels by design allowed more oil seepage and blow by vs the newer engines. (air cooled diesels are the exception but those coked up on regular no2 diesel if ran to cool)The blow by was used as a means to keep fresh motor oil at the rings at the time. The newer diesels still are built to allows some blow by to keep that function just no where near the extent of older generations of diesel engines. Some failures are also associated with mix in additives that can send egts dangerously high or dry out the fuel. Ive personally seen my motor oil darken more quickly running wmo mix at -30F temps so i could see that possibly causing wear from a number of oil related problems. I know you said no injection pumps but some people with a stanadyne injection pump have completely ruined the injection pump but that goes for any fluid that was thick they had a weak design and would shear components. The bosch vp44 pump can get starved of the lubricating fuel at thicker mixes cause of poor fuel delivery. Wmo isnt risk free its just a different set of risks. Imo stalling with a full load going down a steep hill is a major failure due to the danger.

 

[The_Master]

Just a thought on the heat exchanger topic.
Once the motor is up to operating temperature, normally the fuel in the lines is already warm from the pump, and since the injectors are mounted into the engine block and are protruding into the combustion chamber, they are essentially heated all the time. This should mean that the fuel that moves through the injector is heated (while cooling the injector), so that when the fuel is injected, it is as hot as it would be, even if you had a fuel heater...

Obviously, when the motor is cold, nothing is heated, but this is also true with a coolant heater.

 

[Blownoiler]

Just a thought on the heat exchanger topic.
Once the motor is up to operating temperature, normally the fuel in the lines is already warm from the pump, and since the injectors are mounted into the engine block and are protruding into the combustion chamber, they are essentially heated all the time. This should mean that the fuel that moves through the injector is heated (while cooling the injector), so that when the fuel is injected, it is as hot as it would be, even if you had a fuel heater...

Obviously, when the motor is cold, nothing is heated, but this is also true with a coolant heater.

It does take a while for the fuel system to absorb a decent amount of heat from the engine, so heating the fuel before the filter helps here, and also helps the thicker fuel to flow through the filter. If you guys want a cleaner burn you can wind down the amount of fuel injected for any particular boost pressure at the expense of a small drop in power. From what I have understood regarding how fuel burns in the chamber, the fuel droplet heats up and starts to evaporate and burn as it encounters oxygen, layer by layer....like an onion. The lighter fractions evaporate and burn first, leaving the heavier components of the fuel droplet floating around without evaporating, also If there is insufficient oxygen available then the droplet of fuel stops burning and goes out, creating soot. It is entirely possible to stop ignition from starting at all on the power stroke by injecting a large amount of nitrous oxide too, the compression of a super cool chamber full of air doesn't heat the air enough to support combustion, now consider that a gasoline engine can also have problems burning the fuel/air charge completely when using large amounts of nitrous and it becomes obvious that the engines inlet air temp should be kept within a certain temp. range in order to get a clean burn. Heavy oil fuels require more heat to burn completely! I think that most of you guys know that finer atomisation of a particular fuel will improve its combustability, so higher injector crack pressures can only help matters.