Atf and wmo mix

Daniel McCurdy

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Seems the biggest problem with running wmo is it possibly coaking everything up especially in cars like the mercedes and vw. So wouldnt keeping waste atf mixed with the wmo prevent that as the atf has all the detergents to keep everything clean. Has anybody been using a mix and still had coaking problems.
 

Jesus Freak

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I have a mix of who knows what. My understanding is that a IDI engine doesn't have coking issues, but the DI do. If you check out @ut99dot1 threads he's confronting the coking issue in different ways. I can't remember what he drives, I'm pretty sure it's a VW something or other. I haul hay once a month for 25miles on some pretty decent hills(for NW Florida) and really hammer down to burn out the cylinders. ATF would be great if you can send a consistent source of it.

Edit: I just looked and he rocks a 78 Mercedes 300D.
 

Jesus Freak

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The Cummins is supposed to coke, but I think some of the guys use different injectors that spray different to help overcome it a bit.
 

ut99dot1

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hey, pure ATF would be great but I don't think the detergents in it would "cancel out" all the filth from the WMO.

I'm driving a Golf mk2 with the natural aspirated 1.6D engine. The mix I got from the local scrapyard has everything in it; ATF, oil, probably even brakefluid & coolant reminants (has been de-watered though). It runs extremely filthy, every 3000miles the injector heatshields get completely plugged.


Got 3 "solutions for you";

1. Live with the coking (I've been doing that for the past years). 4 heatshields are easy to swap & cheap. There's a reduction in power, but I can live with that. As long as you don't go uphill it should be fine.

2. Get better WMO or filter better. I heard 0W30, or even 5W30 don't need anything and just burn very clean. For filtering I tried some stuff but it's not an option for me unfortunately;

3. More heat
Either pre-heat like the veggie people (which I tried but didn't improve coking as much as expected https://www.oilburners.net/threads/...ic-pre-heater-instead-of-2-tank-system.91654/)

Currently I'm adding a turbo to the NA engine, the extra heat during compression should help. I'll report back once it's installed
 

Jesus Freak

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hey, pure ATF would be great but I don't think the detergents in it would "cancel out" all the filth from the WMO.

I'm driving a Golf mk2 with the natural aspirated 1.6D engine. The mix I got from the local scrapyard has everything in it; ATF, oil, probably even brakefluid & coolant reminants (has been de-watered though). It runs extremely filthy, every 3000miles the injector heatshields get completely plugged.


Got 3 "solutions for you";

1. Live with the coking (I've been doing that for the past years). 4 heatshields are easy to swap & cheap. There's a reduction in power, but I can live with that. As long as you don't go uphill it should be fine.

2. Get better WMO or filter better. I heard 0W30, or even 5W30 don't need anything and just burn very clean. For filtering I tried some stuff but it's not an option for me unfortunately;

3. More heat
Either pre-heat like the veggie people (which I tried but didn't improve coking as much as expected https://www.oilburners.net/threads/...ic-pre-heater-instead-of-2-tank-system.91654/)

Currently I'm adding a turbo to the NA engine, the extra heat during compression should help. I'll report back once it's installed
Thanks for chiming in! That's great information.
 

nhwrench01

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see some of my other write ups about running atf.. i tried wmo for a while but, it didnt work so good for me,, using atf worked great... it will take me to long to recall my findings, but i did do some write ups on how and what i did, the 93 is now a plow,yard rig, due to rust and the e4od is giving me to much problems, ( all electronic, ) its just to much,,, but i bought a 86 idi 6.9 c6 and thats being built as of now,, so im not out of the idi game yet,,,and it will run on atf...
 

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