can I prevent coking with WMO?

idi traveler

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These pictures are not the best but they are all I have on my laptop. The picture with the turbo parts shows the heat exchanger before installation, the second shows it installed, and the third shows my Racor Voromax that I also use in my system. I hope this helps. If you have any questions lmk.

How much does the heat exchanger raise your fuel temp and where did you get it, or should I say who makes it.

Your setup looks really good by the way.
 

oregon101

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I bought the heat exchanger off Ebay. It is made by Packless Industries and the model number is a HXR-501. I have insulated the heater hoses with foam pipe insulation the whole length to keep the heat in and my fuel gets to about 165-200. The average is about 190. I actually have a total of three fuel filters on my truck. I have a universal filter base with a spin on oil filter, the Racor Vormax and then the stock location with a Racor filter. The first filter is 15 microns, the second 3 microns and then a Racor 2 micron in the stock location. The Racor Vormax has a restriction gauge and I have yet to replace the filter at the stock location. It seems to work well. I have run every type of fuel you can think of with this setup, diesel, atf, wmo, kerosene, hydraulic oil, wvo, gear oil etc. Three fuel filters might be overkill but better safe than sorry! Sorry this got a little long.:D
 

idi traveler

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No don't apologize, I want to hear everything I can about alternative fuels. I took my truck on trade for work I did on a guy's tractor. It was the very truck I was looking for to run waste oils. 93 7.3 IDI turbo. I studied everything I could find on Cumins, GM(Detroit) and the Ford(IH). Everything pointed to this combo and I want to do it right.

The fuel temps you are getting sound right to prevent coking from what I've read, does it work?

Also the temp you are getting, that is with the vormax and the heat exchanger. I was thinking of using the transmission radiator heat exchanger and was told that would not raise the temp very much. But with the HXR-501 in conjuction with the rad heat exchanger, that might work. Any thoughts. Or experience
 

cranknrods

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you asked how much water i run...well i would love to go out to the truck and see but im in masul, iraq right now. but i can tell you what my set up is. i got a 100psi pump pushin water to a single port NOS fogger. the fogger alows me to change out the jets. if i remember correctly i was usin a 0.020 pill. this set up is turned on by a pressure switch that i got off ebay. i have the switch set so that when it sees 15 pounds of boost it sends power to the electric pump. depending on my driving 1 gallon last about one tank of fuel.
i dont use alot of water but i think i would see better results if i bought a programable snow setup so that at big boost i could use more water and at say 5psi use a tinny bit. right now im just doin what i think is safe.
 

idi traveler

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you asked how much water i run...well i would love to go out to the truck and see but im in masul, iraq right now. but i can tell you what my set up is. i got a 100psi pump pushin water to a single port NOS fogger. the fogger alows me to change out the jets. if i remember correctly i was usin a 0.020 pill. this set up is turned on by a pressure switch that i got off ebay. i have the switch set so that when it sees 15 pounds of boost it sends power to the electric pump. depending on my driving 1 gallon last about one tank of fuel.
i dont use alot of water but i think i would see better results if i bought a programable snow setup so that at big boost i could use more water and at say 5psi use a tinny bit. right now im just doin what i think is safe.

Let me say right now that the thank you I sent is for your service as much as for the info.

Does the water help a lot in preventing coking?
 

cranknrods

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Let me say right now that the thank you I sent is for your service as much as for the info.

Does the water help a lot in preventing coking?

i wouldnt run wmo without it. before i had it i would run 1 tank of wmo (before i started to feel a loss of power) then the next would be #2Diesel. it usually didnt start acting right untill i had burned through 3/4 tank of #2D

but with the water injection it doesnt even seem like it gets weak untill the 2nd or 3rd tank of WMO the i put in #2D and it clears up real quick. im convinced that the water injection is keeping to coke from building.

one of the problems with WMO is that not all of it burns in the chamber-thus the deposites. propane injection for many years has been helping burn #2 more completly. my next step is to get a propane kit, set it on the low side to help burn the WMO. and i bet that propane and water injection would pretty much cure the problems with WMO. add that with some heated fuel lines and your good to go.

now remember, your running a different rig then i am. i cut my WMO with kero to thin it out. one of the things you have to worry about when running high percentages of WMO is how to get the thick WMO to the injection pump cause your little electric lift pump is not gonna like the task of pumpin something that is twice as thick as what it was designed for. i know of 2 ways to do this. one way is to get a oil pump from a chevy, ford whatever and hook it up to a 12volt motor and rig up some plumbing (requires brazing) and then use a regulator for control.
the best way is to use a power steering pump that is moded, JRED is who you need to talk to about this one. i for one would do the "jred pump" if i had a ford and could run straight WMO.
 

idi traveler

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I'M PLANNING ON RUNNING 20% #2D IN MY WMO AND I'M PLANNING ON ONLY USING AN ELECTRIC PUMP FOR PRIMING. i LIKE THE IDEA OF SIMPLE AND MECHANICAL. EARLY ON IN MY PLANNING I THOUGHT ABOUT PROPANE. LIKE THE WATER, WOULD YOU INJECT IT AFTER THE TURBO?
 

cranknrods

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as far as seting up the propane system...i dont have any hands on experience with it. ive been reading some articles about it and have decided that the best way for me to install it is to buy the bullydog kit and go by the instructions, not cause im scared but more because it would be so much easier to have them supply everything and know that what im putting on wont scatter my motor all over the road.
dont get me wrong though, you can still pop a motor with the bolt on kit, however i dont have to worry cause im gonna set mine up to just trickle propane into the motor. its hard for me to refill bottles back home and not only that but this truck is not a race truck nor is it an experiment. i just want something to drive to work that cost very little to fill up and i dont want the thing to coke up every other tank.
and i think the best way to do that is by
1. blending the fuel, with kero not #2- thins it alot better plus it helps it burn cleaner, dont worry about the lubricity of kero, remember the other part of the blend is oil. the naysayers say that #2 has better lubricity then WMO but if you look at the charts they provide real close you can see that the wmo in small amounts actually raises the lubricity of the fuel.
2. then filtering with a centrifuge until blue in the face
3. get the water out, i belive boiling is the only way to get water out of oil that was engineered to keep water suspended inorder to keep the engines oil pump from pumping straight water if the water was to settle out of the oil.
i can explain this more if you would like
4. water injection to clean combustion chambers
5. if i was pumpin a real thick mix of WMO i would do the JRED pump

done all of those but to make the system perfect i think i should add
1. propane to help complete the burn of the stuborn WMO(bullydog kit)
2. heat fuel lines
3.im not gonna do it but i would recomend a second tank for starting on D#2
and switching over when engine is warm

understand that most injection pumps that fail from wmo is not because of the wmo but because the lift pump can keep up with the demand of the IP thus the IP runs out of fuel and fuel is what lubes the IP.
and after that the IP and injectors fail because the user was doin somthin silly by filtering with a t-shirtcookoo this takes longer to kill the system but not supplyin the IP with required amount of fuel will have you on the side of the road pretty soon. a 80%wmo20%#2 is a pretty thick mixture for an electric lift pump. however if you used kero instead of #2 that would help.;Really
 

armstrongfordt

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When you talk about cooking with wmo, I have a question. I am new to the diesel trucks. I am running 50/50 wmo/diesel. I have torn down many gas engines, I have always noticed that my spark plug color on the tip always matched my heads and exhaust when I removed the heads for rebuild. This meant usually no carbon build up when they were grayish/tan in color. When you remove the heads or injectors from a diesel does this hold true ? The reason I ask is because my tail pipe has gone from black(using 100% diesel) to tanish color using 50/50.
Can anyone help me out here? I don't want to have problems with my engine.
It is a 1997 F-350 PSD 4X4

Thanks
 

cranknrods

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When you talk about cooking with wmo, I have a question. I am new to the diesel trucks. I am running 50/50 wmo/diesel. I have torn down many gas engines, I have always noticed that my spark plug color on the tip always matched my heads and exhaust when I removed the heads for rebuild. This meant usually no carbon build up when they were grayish/tan in color. When you remove the heads or injectors from a diesel does this hold true ? The reason I ask is because my tail pipe has gone from black(using 100% diesel) to tanish color using 50/50.
Can anyone help me out here? I don't want to have problems with my engine.
It is a 1997 F-350 PSD 4X4

Thanks

the biggest reason you end up with cocking is cause of an incomplete burn in the chamber. wmo has more BTU's then D#2 however it is pretty hard to get the nozzles that were designed for the thinner #2 to spray a good pattern with the thicker wmo. thus you end up with unburned fuel that turns into coke on the injectors.
by using water injection you are steam cleaning this coke of the cylinders.

i dont know about this brown exhaust thing though. my pipe stays pretty black.
i dont really know that much about the PS motors but i like using kero as a thinner for my wmo instead of #2. i find it burns better and thins the mix better. think about it like this, when mixing #2 with a thicker substance it doesnt matter how much #2 you put into the mix it will never be as thin as straight #2. im not to worried about the lubricity of kero either, after all, im mixing it with oil. just to be safe though i add a pint of 2stroke to each tank but i doubt its necessary. when i get home im gonna see about sending off a sample of my fuel and seeing if it matches up to #2Diesel.
 

idi traveler

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the biggest reason you end up with cocking is cause of an incomplete burn in the chamber. wmo has more BTU's then D#2 however it is pretty hard to get the nozzles that were designed for the thinner #2 to spray a good pattern with the thicker wmo. thus you end up with unburned fuel that turns into coke on the injectors.
by using water injection you are steam cleaning this coke of the cylinders.

i dont know about this brown exhaust thing though. my pipe stays pretty black.
i dont really know that much about the PS motors but i like using kero as a thinner for my wmo instead of #2. i find it burns better and thins the mix better. think about it like this, when mixing #2 with a thicker substance it doesnt matter how much #2 you put into the mix it will never be as thin as straight #2. im not to worried about the lubricity of kero either, after all, im mixing it with oil. just to be safe though i add a pint of 2stroke to each tank but i doubt its necessary. when i get home im gonna see about sending off a sample of my fuel and seeing if it matches up to #2Diesel.

WHEN YOU GET THE RESULTS WOULD YOU MIND SHARING THEN WITH US?
 

armstrongfordt

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Thanks, cranknrods
I will thin my next batch with kero to see if it any thinner.
I have read where some are using gas to thin with, what is your opinion on this ? would this lower the flash point closer to diesel.
 

cranknrods

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iditraveler--as soon as i get the results for my fuel you can bet your butt this will be the first place i post.

armstrong--i dont know about the gas thing-i only tried it once and was to scared to put more then 1/2 gallon into my tank with 36 gallons of wmo/#2 mix. i do think it helped but not enough to risk it.
i think the reason guys use it, is not so much for a thinner but to help the wmo fireoff. wmo is harder to get burning then #2 thus the RUG probably helps with this. IMHO propane injection is a better choice, however i cant prove this until i get home and install a propane kit.(set on the lowest setting)im not looking for HP with propane just lookin to help the wmo burn cleaner,this in itself will give even more MPG. with water injection, straight pipe, K&N filter and wmo my truck already gets better MPG then when it was new.

unlocking the rest of the power from the unburned wmo with propane should help alot more. i think

but as far as using gas, i dont know about that one, im not gonna do it...

just use kero and water injection, youll be fine with that
 

hot2go4x4

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i heard water injection can clean up the cylinders real nice
Wait a minute, what do you mean water injection. I don't understand???
I am running 70/30 WMO/diesel ratio.
Just smogged for the second year and clean on inspection.

My cleaning process includes,pour WMO thru 1 micron bag into 55 gal tank #1, heating WMO to 120, suction thru magnetics to gearrotor pump, pumped thru WET2400 coil to centrifudge @ 90 psi for 7000 rpm, dumped into tank #2, a 55 gal drum.
Close off tank #1, open bypass on tank #2 and recirculate back thru WET2400 & centrifudge to tank #2. The WET2400 is programed to break hydrocarbon chain of WMO for better cleaning and I found inproves atomization for a cleaner burn.
 

hot2go4x4

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iditraveler--as soon as i get the results for my fuel you can bet your butt this will be the first place i post.

armstrong--i dont know about the gas thing-i only tried it once and was to scared to put more then 1/2 gallon into my tank with 36 gallons of wmo/#2 mix. i do think it helped but not enough to risk it.
i think the reason guys use it, is not so much for a thinner but to help the wmo fireoff. wmo is harder to get burning then #2 thus the RUG probably helps with this. IMHO propane injection is a better choice, however i cant prove this until i get home and install a propane kit.(set on the lowest setting)im not looking for HP with propane just lookin to help the wmo burn cleaner,this in itself will give even more MPG. with water injection, straight pipe, K&N filter and wmo my truck already gets better MPG then when it was new.

unlocking the rest of the power from the unburned wmo with propane should help alot more. i think

but as far as using gas, i dont know about that one, im not gonna do it...

just use kero and water injection, youll be fine with that
CRANKNRODS is right, do not mix or you will find yourself on the side of the road.
The filter and tank siphon will get clogged. Injection pump will fail if this is repeated over and over.
What I am tring to say is this gets expensive real fast.
 
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