towcat i have a question for you. i have a digital snap-on timing meter that uses a lumi probe to time, if i bring the motor back to o* tdc which way would i have to rotate the ip to bring it to 1.5-2.0*atdc at 1400rpm's and a 20*offset? thats what i was told the timing has to be set at for using lumi probe.
camper disapointment
- Thread starter jtate
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the direction it needs to be turned is dependent on where the timing is now. If it's too far retarded, turn it to the passenger side, if too far advanced, turn it to the drivers side.
well thats the reason i said if i bring it back to 0*tdc on the meter and go from there. i dont know if its to far either way, because i dont know how to read the meter. ive been asking for a answer for several years and havent got one yet. when you look at the meter you can turn the ip to the pass or drivers side and make it read like +1.5* or -1.5* with 0*tdc being in the middle of the two. my question is which way do you turn it to make it read atdc, is it +1.5 or is it -1.5 to be atdc?
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
That's a good question jtate where does your meter say the timing is right now at 1400 rpm? I would think (not sure though) that since you're using the luminosity method the ignition event has already taken place therefore after TDC so +1.5 would be right, but I may be exactly backward. Probably this thing really needs to be a little more advanced than that with ULSD fuel. We figured maybe 0.3*ATDC at 1400? The closer you get to TDC the more advanced it will be. Honestly though I don't know enough to know for sure which +- it is. I will be learning right with you I guess cause I am in the process of acquiring the same meter. Do you have a manual for your 1480? If not snapon will send you one at no cost from what I hear...it seems like that should tell you but maybe it doesn't. And yes I have Sle 215's 3.55 gearset, they are fine for me but my truck is a DD and is never heavy. A cord of firewood or my 20' boat is as heavy as it gets. With the turbo it's just fine, NA it was a little sluggish but not too bad with the C6 my truck used to have.
Gotcha, If you have it at 0 then retarding it ( toward the drivers side )would place the timing after top dead center and advancing it( toward the passenger side) would place it before top dead center. And you are going to want to use the spec JD mentioned to compensate for the new fuel or the thing will be gutless and get lousy mileage
diesel jd i have a manual that came with the meter and it says nothing about it. ive read through it several times with no luck. as far as the timing ive been searching for the correct answer to my question going on 2 years now.
to answer your question about where the timing is at now, its at +2.0*.
crashnzuk
Full Access Member
I know how you feel. I took a ****** trip pulling my Jeep with my old mans truck, and I wasn't impressed. It reminded me of a small block gasser to be completely honest
and it has a turbo! Through info gained from here, I told him to have it timed and see if that picks it up. Hope you figure yours out and it becomes pleasing to drive.Travis..
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
These engines are not mean't to lug -they are mean't to scream like a "screamin' Jimmy"...Put your foot in it and let it howl...It will pull ok.
Michael Fowler
Registered User
I went to a seminar on MGs a few years ago, ( The car; not machine guns).
The guy running the seminar promised a 10 HP increase at no cost. He asked--by a show of hands-- at what RPM were people shifting. Most people were shifting at 3500 or lower. he then showed the RPM/HP curve, and there was at least 10 HP above that RPM that was not being used. His point, at least for MGs, was to run it right up to the redline when shifting. A second or two at that speed for every shift would have no measureable effect on engine life.
The guy running the seminar promised a 10 HP increase at no cost. He asked--by a show of hands-- at what RPM were people shifting. Most people were shifting at 3500 or lower. he then showed the RPM/HP curve, and there was at least 10 HP above that RPM that was not being used. His point, at least for MGs, was to run it right up to the redline when shifting. A second or two at that speed for every shift would have no measureable effect on engine life.
Get a new IP and injectors if You haven't already, time it right and sooner or later You'll have to put a turbo there. You can make the engine drive high on rpms which is fine but the turbo will get the power You are looking for.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
It's true and I usually find that all the noise and smoke get's you more room in traffic too.
jeffgordon24
91 f250 kingcab 4*4
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my old 91 would have the same problem slow down alot on hills now my 94 zf5 with 410 s is much better i can slow down in 5th gear to 30 mph and accelerate back up decently with my 5th wheel trailor at 7500lbs . If you got an n/a you need the gears for pulling otherwise put the hazards on and get ready to get passed by granny with her walker. dont worry about the rpms and mileage
