Caliper moving when suspension cycles?

[crash-harris]

Found the source of a suspension squeak that I've been chasing for a good while. Turns out it's actually the passenger side caliper squeaking when the suspension cycles. WTH is up with that? I'm kind of thinking the spindle nut has loosened up and it's bearing play or something? Final torque for 2wd wheel bearings is only 18 in/lbs with no castle nut/cotter pin, but I did go through the pre-load torque step when I replaced them. It's had to been at least a year since I did them, but the driver's side is seeing more load with the bad upper balljoint.

Or is this normal and I've just never noticed it and need to re-lube the slide pins?

 

[Macrobb]

When you jack each wheel off the ground and push/pull on the top, does it move? If so, what's moving? Any movement in or out when pushing on the top of the tire meams you have a problem.

 

[crash-harris]

Haven't been able to get it off the ground to test that yet, but when rocking the suspension (pushing up on running board), there was only the slightest amount of wiggle. Maybe 1/2" max. I first noticed it while looking at the inside bead of the wheel in relation to the knuckle. That's when I narrowed the squeak down to the caliper area. Grabbing the caliper itself altered the sound.

 

[Macrobb]

Jack it up now. You probably have a bad or loose wheel bearing, or ball joint.

 

[crash-harris]

Planning on doing it tomorrow. It's definitely not balljoints on that side as there is zero play between the knuckle and beam.

 

[crash-harris]

Yup, wheel bearings on both sides loose. I'm not really sure how they've loosened up or if I followed some BS instructions online when I torqued them. Re-torqued them per the Haynes instructions and left them just a touch tight since they've been slopping around for awhile. Hopefully this helps with some of my vibrations as well then

 

[riotwarrior]

*** no cotter and or castle nut???has to be

 

[nostrokes]

IIRC, my 88 2wd had cotters and castle nuts think it had caps on the nuts too but my memory is bad and that was 18 years ago.

1/2" of play is quite a bit on a high speed bearing it starts wobbling around and it will trash itself fast. Doesn't take long to build heat too. Double check that final torque too think it's more than 18 in/lb.. Don't have my book handy right now so I can't look.

 

[Macrobb]

The torque is in inch-lbs of drag(preload) on the bearing, not how tight the nut is.
What I do is just crank the nut as tight as I can with a breaker bar while spinning the tire a bit to make sure it seats, then back it off until the tire spins freely, with little drag. Install the spacer plate and second nut, and crank it down tight.

If you find any play in the bearing when pushing on the tire, it's too loose. If you drive it and find the bearing getting hot, it's too tight.

Drive, check and you won't have any problems.

 

[chillman88]

Wish I'd taken pictures for ya on Monday when I repacked mine. My 91 has a nut, a 12 point "castle" cap that goes over the nut and a cotter pin.

When I did mine I tightened it, put the wheel back on and got it to where there was JUST no play in it, put the castle cap thing and the cotter pin back and capped it off.

EDIT: Just exactly like this...
https://goo.gl/images/SbGViu

 

[crash-harris]

Yeah, castle cap thing and cotter pin on it. Not sure how I forgot about that. Haynes says 22-25 ft/lbs, spin hub forward, insure torque is still within spec, then loosen 1/8 of a turn and tighten hand tight. I basically just left it at 25 ft/lbs and backed it off maybe 1/16 of a turn. Not enough to take any pressure off it.

Like I said, I must've found and followed some BS online instead of my red Haynes bible.