c6 to t-19 questions

Austin86250

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Oh well went to go pickup the trucks and cooked that c6 good I mean billowing clouds of smoke trans fluid on trailer chains slammed some hydraulic oil in it made it home
 

Austin86250

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Almost got everything pulled! Just need to buy a slave cylinder with that being said how in the world does the slave cylinder get removed from the line?
And I’m having issues getting the knob off it appears to be hermetically sealed on I thought it just pulls off correct?

Also what adhesive/ sealer should I use on the floor pan or can I just reuse it and call it mint?
 
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IDIBRONCO

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There is a small rolled pin that holds the line onto the slave cylinder. You need to drive that out before the line will separate. You'll need to reinstall it to hold the line on.
What knob are you talking about?
To reseal you floor pan/cover, You could probably use some silicone that you buy in a tube. I would think that you'd want to use some type of sealer since the factory did. If you haven't yet, you don't need to cut yours. You can probably use the cover from one of the donor trucks.
 

Austin86250

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There is a small rolled pin that holds the line onto the slave cylinder. You need to drive that out before the line will separate. You'll need to reinstall it to hold the line on.
What knob are you talking about?
To reseal you floor pan/cover, You could probably use some silicone that you buy in a tube. I would think that you'd want to use some type of sealer since the factory did. If you haven't yet, you don't need to cut yours. You can probably use the cover from one of the donor trucks.
Oh a pin interesting design, and the shift knob for the trans
 

franklin2

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I would leave the slave connected to the clutch master and keep it all one piece. You may be able to avoid bleeding the clutch system that way, which can be very difficult sometimes.

I would not worry about the clutch switch wiring. Without it, that is less to go wrong. I did a zf swap and never messed with it. Sure it will crank while in gear and the clutch is not pressed, but I do not need my truck to be idiot proof. Same with the cruise. If you have the cruise on and press on the clutch while you are driving down the highway, you deserve what you get. Your cruise should already be wired to the brake switch, which should suffice in all situations of emergency when the cruise needs to drop out.
 

captain720

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I agree although once when I was much younger I reached through the window to start my truck after an engine replacement and it was in gear and drove itself straight into my other truck………. I learned some things that day
 

Jesus Freak

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I would leave the slave connected to the clutch master and keep it all one piece. You may be able to avoid bleeding the clutch system that way, which can be very difficult sometimes.

I would not worry about the clutch switch wiring. Without it, that is less to go wrong. I did a zf swap and never messed with it. Sure it will crank while in gear and the clutch is not pressed, but I do not need my truck to be idiot proof. Same with the cruise. If you have the cruise on and press on the clutch while you are driving down the highway, you deserve what you get. Your cruise should already be wired to the brake switch, which should suffice in all situations of emergency when the cruise needs to drop out.
I work on lawn mowers so much that I'm programed to be sitting on the seat pushing the clutch to crank anything. And since I drive for FedEx and have worked for UPS I'm like a robot when I get into a vehicle.

That being said; I don't have the clutch switch in either of my trucks, and the steering lock is detached in I tow truck but I always press the clutch and reach under my steering wheel.

And yeah, keep the master and cylinder together. You can buy them together as one piece already bled.
 

Austin86250

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I work on lawn mowers so much that I'm programed to be sitting on the seat pushing the clutch to crank anything. And since I drive for FedEx and have worked for UPS I'm like a robot when I get into a vehicle.

That being said; I don't have the clutch switch in either of my trucks, and the steering lock is detached in I tow truck but I always press the clutch and reach under my steering wheel.

And yeah, keep the master and cylinder together. You can buy them together as one piece already bled.
Where / how I was unable to get off as a whole?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Don't take this as gospel, but I think that all of the bellhousing bolts are the same no matter what transmission you have.
 

Austin86250

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Don't take this as gospel, but I think that all of the bellhousing bolts are the same no matter what transmission you have.
I think I worded that a little off, I’m taking about the bolts that attach the t-19 to the bellhousing there’s 4 not the 6 that attach the bell housing to the block/ adapter plate
 

Austin86250

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Got everything off my list checked off!! Starting tomorrow
 

Jesus Freak

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Where / how I was unable to get off as a whole?
On rockauto it's listed as clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assembly.
Don't take this as gospel, but I think that all of the bellhousing bolts are the same no matter what transmission you have.
Should all be the same. The only one I haven't had in my truck is the E4OD, but the other 3 are the same.
 

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