C6 question

Michael Fowler

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If I am committing to fix the truck, I think I need to look at the tranny, too. It shifts fine. But I have severely overheated it a few times. ( It always seems to be on the way to an IDI rally!?) I always change the fluid after getting it hot.
Is it likely that I have damaged the friction linings?
Should I pull the tranny (C6) with the engine--or is it better to pull the engine separately?
Is a C6 something an amateur can go thru, or does it require special tools?

What should I expect to pay for having someone rebuild it, if I have it out of the truck for them?
Does it make good sense to replace the converter while I an there? What do they cost? Is there anything special to look for? Are there choices?
I tow a 7000 lb or so 5th wheel.
 

sassyrel

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you didnt hurt the frictions--unless you absolutely cooked the o rings--which would make them slip---does it slip now???? if not--ok--------if you change the oil right away--that helps--but buy a qt of trans-x ranny fluid--it helps soften the seals back up--less they are tooooo far gone---and leave it in!!! the only thing you can do to the conv--is to have a custom rebuilder tighten up the fins---which lowers the stall--but also lowers the amount of internal slip----and yes--you can rebuild it yourself------but you need to watch clearances, and final end play--i rebuild this trans with only one thrust washer--the rest are torrington needle bearings---so lots of ways to go about it--------
 

icanfixall

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You need to remove the front clip to pull the motor and trans. Don't even try it. The weight is really too much for a person to handle. It can be rebuilt easy too. Just as posted here. Think it over and make the decision that works for you.
 

Agnem

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Michael, I did mine. It's not too hard, and not too many tools are needed. But as was stated, if it's fine you don't need to do anything to it! You can replace the 2nd gear band without pulling the trans if you wanted to. Really though, just keeping the fluid clean and cool is the key. That extra cooler you have is the right idea, but you need to put an electric fan on it, and turn it sideways to keep the dirt out of it.
 

Diesel JD

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If its 2wd I have one that worked when pulled from my truck. Worst case scenario it could use seals, but it would work just as it is. I'm looking to let it go for next to nothing. Give me a PM if interested. I imagine the shipping would be high but the price would be low.
 

Michael Fowler

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OK,
Thanks for the replies.
I am not looking to do "extra" work. I was just thinking "while I'm in there this far....."
It shifts absolutely fine right now.
I think I will add a can of the additive mentioned above, and leave it well enough alone.
(That might just free up enough$$$ for a turbo.....)
 

Diesel JD

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OK it should work out for you these C6s will stand up under a lot of serious abuse, they just chew up a lot of power is all. You can probably do better if you just make sure the VRV is good and adjusted correctly rather than throwing a lot of money at it. Also I have a shift kit for the C6 if you're interested, not trying to sell you on it, cause it scared me off. Just feed it clean fluid and keep that VRV in perfect adjustment and you'll be good and add another cooler if you're gonna tow real heavy.
 

david85

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It takes a lot more than that to kill a C6. If you do have to rebuild it, just get the ATSG manual and do it yourself. Its not hard, just need to work with a clear head and clean shop.
 

Greg Pettit

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A C6 can stand a tremendous amount of abuse. I ran the C6 in my muscle car for a year with the temps ******* a 320 degree gauge. I figured the gauge was bad, but when it was freshen up time all the steels were BLUE! Frictions were OK. The trans never slipped once over all that time.

Forgot to mention that this trans is behind almost 900 HP in a 4300 lbs car.



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This is our previous combo, approx 700 HP.

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david85

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A C6 can stand a tremendous amount of abuse. I ran the C6 in my muscle car for a year with the temps ******* a 320 degree gauge. I figured the gauge was bad, but when it was freshen up time all the steels were BLUE! Frictions were OK. The trans never slipped once over all that time.

Forgot to mention that this trans is behind almost 900 HP in a 4300 lbs car.



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This is our previous combo, approx 700 HP.

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That looks like the direct clutch pack I pulled out of my E4OD (parts are very similar) when I went to rebuild it before retrofitting it to my truck. Was the apply piston melted at all? Mine was a little, had to replace it.
 

typ4

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IMHO If it isnt slipping dont use any additives. every trans that I have rebuilt that had it had gummy seals. I do about 60 c6's a year for our airport bag tugs.
Good cool fluid is what autos like.
 

HammerDown

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OK,
It shifts absolutely fine right now.
I think I will add a can of the additive...
Real quick...back in early 1990 I was pulling my inclosed 18' Haulmark trailer up from Florida. There was some strong head winds through SC and I must have worked the tranny hard a few miles. It pissed out some fluid from the vent.
When I got home I changed out the fluid and installed a really nice B&M tranny cooler behind the front grill and it's been fine ever since...never even considered getting into the tranny.
A local (respected) trany shop swears by the additive Lube-Guard. I use it in my truck and Vette. ;Sweet 20 years and 182,000 miles strong as a rock.
 
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Agnem

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One thing is probably true Michael, on your trip to the rally, that little add-on cooler you had under your feet was the only thing keeping your transmission cool. ;Really
 
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