I read through the thread again and didn't see an answer, so just to make sure... you need to pull the plug off the top and leave it disconnected.
Bypassing the Glow Plug Controller 6.9l IHC
- Thread starter mankypro
- Start date
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
I did pull the top off of that. Also, is that a water passage under the controller? If so, is that the best place to put the temp sensor?
SWS
SWS
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Can I get a brass plug to put in where the older 6.9 Controller goes? what size?
Clydesdale
Full Access Member
I am technically dense... so... don't berate me too hard.
To manually run my gpc, I leave the wait to start connector alone as it is irrelevant.(lil' blue mf'er that runs off and has a barrel connector)
I take the white terminal off the solenoid, and ground it. I take a "momentary switch", is like the frnch term for a high amp toggle? and I wire it into that terminal where the white wire was, and I ground the ohter side, so the switch runs off ground.
Everything else on the GP solenoid I leave alone, as it is irrelevant to cycling these plugs manually (please. please. keep this as simple as you can.. after I do this and it works, I wil get it, and be intelligent about it, but right now... clear as mud)
So recapping, green stays under "L" shaped metal bracket, little red that seems to be key hot stays to one side of solenoid, dual brown that goes to harness still stays under L Bracket, Yellow stays wherever the hell it is right now. and when I pull the momentary switch, high falutin' toggle, I ground the solenoid... and my truck breaks it ether addiction (WD-40 actually)
To manually run my gpc, I leave the wait to start connector alone as it is irrelevant.(lil' blue mf'er that runs off and has a barrel connector)
I take the white terminal off the solenoid, and ground it. I take a "momentary switch", is like the frnch term for a high amp toggle? and I wire it into that terminal where the white wire was, and I ground the ohter side, so the switch runs off ground.
Everything else on the GP solenoid I leave alone, as it is irrelevant to cycling these plugs manually (please. please. keep this as simple as you can.. after I do this and it works, I wil get it, and be intelligent about it, but right now... clear as mud)
So recapping, green stays under "L" shaped metal bracket, little red that seems to be key hot stays to one side of solenoid, dual brown that goes to harness still stays under L Bracket, Yellow stays wherever the hell it is right now. and when I pull the momentary switch, high falutin' toggle, I ground the solenoid... and my truck breaks it ether addiction (WD-40 actually)
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
well, do not directly ground the white terminal, put the switch in line with the ground, this way the relay/solenoid only works when you or the controller tell it to, you having more authority than the controller obviously.
Also, note that your red WTS light will not work if you're holding the switch manually (but will still work when the controller wants it to), to make it work with both the controller and the manual switch locate the blue wire coming off the base of the controller and cut it as close to the controller as possible, then add a ring-terminal to the end that's now just hanging from the main harness behind the engine and connect it to the relay terminal where the white wire and your manual ground go - the WTS works like the glowplugs relay/solenoid, it has key-on power and only lights up when the controller grounds it, well now with the rewire it will ground together with the relay/solenoid so it will work with both the controller and the switch, and it will also blink during the afterglow cycle (which I actually find pretty cool).
Also, note that your red WTS light will not work if you're holding the switch manually (but will still work when the controller wants it to), to make it work with both the controller and the manual switch locate the blue wire coming off the base of the controller and cut it as close to the controller as possible, then add a ring-terminal to the end that's now just hanging from the main harness behind the engine and connect it to the relay terminal where the white wire and your manual ground go - the WTS works like the glowplugs relay/solenoid, it has key-on power and only lights up when the controller grounds it, well now with the rewire it will ground together with the relay/solenoid so it will work with both the controller and the switch, and it will also blink during the afterglow cycle (which I actually find pretty cool).
unclewilson
Full Access Member
well couldnt i just run a wire from the wait to start light to the purple wire or am i a little confused ? or both!!
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Uncle Wilson, why would you run an extra wire from the WTS light, when you already have one in place and all you need to do is move it together with the glowplugs power wires from the old relay to the new one with the controller under it? If you're talking about this picture:
then the fat purple wire is the 12V battery power (will make the WTS light glow all 24/7 till your battery is dead), and the small purple wire is his key-on 12V power (will make the WTS light glow as long as truck is running). You want the WTS light wired to the same stud as the big wires leading from the relay to the glowplugs, as those are what powers the plugs and therefore they get energized only when plugs need to work.
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then the fat purple wire is the 12V battery power (will make the WTS light glow all 24/7 till your battery is dead), and the small purple wire is his key-on 12V power (will make the WTS light glow as long as truck is running). You want the WTS light wired to the same stud as the big wires leading from the relay to the glowplugs, as those are what powers the plugs and therefore they get energized only when plugs need to work.
unclewilson
Full Access Member
im confused the white wire is what pre heats the glow plugs before starting? the small purple is not needed, if u run a switch thru the white wire thats hot when accctivated ? or do i need to go back to page one and reread again! TKS
unclewilson
Full Access Member
i have a 91 7.3 glow plugs dont cycle unless i take off #1 plug wire but they do light the test light so thats why im wanting to go manual for glow plugs .and thought i could have glow plugs pre heat off pre heat light to save from having a switch?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Uncle Wislon, the small purple wire is the power feed of both the relay and the controller under it. When the controller decides the plugs need to glow it uses that white wire to ground the relay, thus closing its control circuit and triggering the relay itself. If you want to manually control the relay and bypass the controller entirely, all you need to do is remove the red wire running from the relay stud down to the controller (the other red wire, the one coming from the harness behind the engine, that needs to stay connected to the relay), then disconnect the white wire from the other stud and it its place run a wire through the firewall, to a switch, and then to a good ground - this way your controller never sees any power and stays off, and you're the one grounding the relay with that switch in the cab.
On your idea of the light powering the glowplugs - not feasible, light comes on when the controller grounds it (like the relay for the glowplugs), it's the controller that decides what needs to work when and you can't do nothing about it without running an extra wire and a switch.
On your idea of the light powering the glowplugs - not feasible, light comes on when the controller grounds it (like the relay for the glowplugs), it's the controller that decides what needs to work when and you can't do nothing about it without running an extra wire and a switch.
unclewilson
Full Access Member
thank you for the help .
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Not a problem. By the way, you said the glowplugs don't cycle, what exacly do they do? Mine come on, stay on for 15-20 seconds (depending on ambient temperature), and then just shut off, no afterglow cycling like many others have. Is it what you're experiencing?
Also, what happens if you pull a wire off a glowplug, does the relay start clicking on and off, then go quiet? Is that what you refer to having the plugs cycle? That's actually a failure mode, the controller thinks your plugs are dying and cycles them shorter to prevent total burnout. Correct operation is like described a bit above, on for about 15 seconds, then maybe several afterglow on-offs, then off for good.
Also, what happens if you pull a wire off a glowplug, does the relay start clicking on and off, then go quiet? Is that what you refer to having the plugs cycle? That's actually a failure mode, the controller thinks your plugs are dying and cycles them shorter to prevent total burnout. Correct operation is like described a bit above, on for about 15 seconds, then maybe several afterglow on-offs, then off for good.
unclewilson
Full Access Member
pull a wire otherwise no clicks thought i should hear it click thru the relay when working properly!no after glow clicks either have been having problems starting in cold changed to beru plugs helped some then to a overdrive starter spins faster got from dp here in tenn.. see i read a little !! just trying to have a better start ! am running 80% motor oil..figure id go manual on the glow plugs .. tks again
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Uncle Wilson, when you turn the ignition key on the relay clicks on immediately, that often coincides with the noise the key itself makes so it's pretty hard to hear - I know I barely even hear mine, and I usually pick up all sorts of sounds from the truck. I do believe your issue is elsewhere, though, namely in the fuel you're running - 80% WMO is nice to run when truck's all warmed up, but it's not easy to start on - that's why it's always recommended that you run WMO in one tank and clean diesel in the other, you start on diesel and then when the engine warms up you switch to WMO, then a few miles before your destination you switch back to diesel and shut the engine off on that.
