Bypassing the Glow Plug Controller 6.9l IHC

unclewilson

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well without the clicking thought my glow plugs werent working ! but its nice to know that the clicking indicates that a plug is not working on my truck . also read that half throttle when starting . been doing full throttle . cycled glow plugs twice this morning started right up .. dont know how cold but its snowing this camper is getting happy with the results and info im getting tks again
 

LCAM-01XA

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Uncle Wilson, half throttle is for moderately cold starts, many people give it wide-open when it gets below freezing. In both cases you should back off the moment the engine fires up, don't wanna be revving it with the oil still in molasses-stage ;) For me one glow cycle (I watch my light, can't really hear the relay) is usually enough to start it till about 15F, when it gets below that I'd double glow it. By the way, are we talking about that RV in your profile picture? I think see 3 axles, so it's gotta be pretty big - what is it, looks pretty cool.
 

unclewilson

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running on waste oil in r.v. its a barth regency 40 ft. traded a 2003 vette and some boot ..tks having to go batteries for it next there week just two axles were discussing 91 ford f350 tks .. mi michigan? if imll have to get you a bottle of my homemaid wine for yhe help tks. ur way wi
 

seawalkersee

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As far as running WMO, I only have one tank since it is in a Bronco. I do not know what percentage I am running of WMO, but it is better than 50%. I started it the other day when it was below freezing with no problems. That was after it had been sitting for a while. I am going to try to keep it at least 50% when it is still winter, and go 25ish% when it warms up. It cranks for a bit longer (it seems like 3-5 sec, but I did not actually time it) than I would like, but it fires right up.

SWS
 

unclewilson

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running 80 % starts good down to around 35 then its a little rough starting unless plugged in .. im gonna run 1 tank at 50% see if it does better
 

nuttruck

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Crumbled GPC

So in attempting to remove the failed GPC it cracked and crumbled and fell apart...crunching a knuckle in the process-cuss-:mad::cry:
Must the remaining piece be removed:confused: If so, how:dunno
My plan was to install the solid state unit but now I'm thinking the manual bypass. I see kits on Ebay but they all include a new relay which seems redundant unless theres a reason to replace what still works. All thoughts thoroughly appreciated, thanks in advance!
 

FarmerFrank

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I pulled that controller out to put a manual Gauge there. Mine stuck on and burnt out all 8 glow plugs then made the solenoid junk. I used a regular starter solenoid like the one on the fender and put a momentary toggle switch so they can't be left on again. Cheap and easy on a 6.9 and less to fail IMO


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Brandon1992

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Uncle Wilson, why would you run an extra wire from the WTS light, when you already have one in place and all you need to do is move it together with the glowplugs power wires from the old relay to the new one with the controller under it? If you're talking about this picture:
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then the fat purple wire is the 12V battery power (will make the WTS light glow all 24/7 till your battery is dead), and the small purple wire is his key-on 12V power (will make the WTS light glow as long as truck is running). You want the WTS light wired to the same stud as the big wires leading from the relay to the glowplugs, as those are what powers the plugs and therefore they get energized only when plugs need to work.
 

Brandon1992

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How would i make my glowplugs come on no matter what temp engine is?? Could i do that by simply unplugging gp controller on rear of engine??
 

rsaltaresjr

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They already come on no matter what the engine temperature is. The only thing that changes with temperature is the duration of the glow plugs receiving voltage. You can bypass the controller by jumping the relay with a heavy duty normally open push button type switch wired with heavy gauge wires, but I don't recommend it unless you know what you're doing. Even with the relay handling most of the voltage, the wires between the bypass switch and relay will get hot.
 

pelky350

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I'm not sure how I wired mine but the wait to start light is still timed with a manual switch the light will come one when I turn switch on, then will turn off like normal but glow plugs still have power till I turn my switch off. Sometimes it stays lit longer when cold just as it would if the controller was working still but I changed to manual switch cause the controller stopped cycling the plugs on and off a long while ago. 20 dollar relay and manual switch or 200 dollar controller I chose the switch lol
 

Sedro

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Hey guys, I have kind of a random question but hopefully someone might be able to help. I'm using a glow plug controller off of a 6.9 but I'm using it on a 6 cylinder 4.2. So my obvious issue is that I'm getting that constant clicking you were guys have been talking about due to me not having the 2 extra glow plugs. So my question is.... What can I do to make it think I have 8 glow plugs not 6? Would adding a resistor into the circuit help? I'm not 100% on how it works.

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

steelheadguy

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Yea you need more resistance to get the controller to function right.
But I would just put in a manual switch and bypass the controller.
 

Sedro

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Also what does the blue wire with the connector on it do? I thought it was the wts light but when i hooked it up it did nothing. Does anyone by chance know what resistance it's looking for to be happy? I'm guessing it's jusy the resistance of the glow plug cable that goes from the controller to the glow plugs then to ground. I know what mine is but no idea what it wants
 
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