Bypassing the Glow Plug Controller 6.9l IHC

[mcbg]

i have a wire that i think is the one that is being called the purple wire looks pink, its the one closest to the engine. is this the wire that needs to be connected to the positive on the battery through an intermittent switch?

Anybody know of a connection to get 12v when the key is in the aux. position that would work for this?

I dont have the diode(one way electric wire) should i wait on the disconnect to get this?

also the only fuse i have is 30a which from what i have read will not offer much protection. should i wait to get a 5-10a fuse?

I dont have anything to plug the controller with should i wait to get a plug before i disconnect it and drive it?

Where do i put the coolant gauge?


This is not a rush job but I have been told that if i dont do this my new glow plugs will get fried anytime.

Thanks

 

[69dieselfreak]

And one last time because I'm dense:

1. pull the purple wire from the gp relay.
2. run a wire from the battery pos (+) terminal or a ignition on accessory in the cab to the dash mounted momentary switch.
3. then run another cable from the other pole of the momentary switch to the post where the purple wire had been connected on the gp relay.

sounds right?

Reason I'm verifying is because I've had one individual say to run + and another to run a ground.

thats good manky thanks that makes that simple for me thanks again

 

[FordGuy100]

And one last time because I'm dense:

1. pull the purple wire from the gp relay.
2. run a wire from the battery pos (+) terminal or a ignition on accessory in the cab to the dash mounted momentary switch.
3. then run another cable from the other pole of the momentary switch to the post where the purple wire had been connected on the gp relay.

sounds right?

Reason I'm verifying is because I've had one individual say to run + and another to run a ground.

Sounds absolutly right . The only thing different in mine was that I added a in line fuse holder (got it at napa) and added a 10 amp fuse to it, which goes between the battery and the momentary on toggle switch. Also, my momentary on toggle switch is a two pole style, the middle is the off, and if you push or pull it it will activate it, so I had to take and split my one power wire and run 2 to my switch (with some sort of little plastic electrical thing I found in my dads work van, basically a plastic piece with metal inside and the wire slides into it and wont come out.). It was easy, took me a good hour to do it, but I was taking my time to do it right, and was testing things along the way.

 

[FordGuy100]

i have a wire that i think is the one that is being called the purple wire looks pink, its the one closest to the engine. is this the wire that needs to be connected to the positive on the battery through an intermittent switch?

Anybody know of a connection to get 12v when the key is in the aux. position that would work for this?

I dont have the diode(one way electric wire) should i wait on the disconnect to get this?

also the only fuse i have is 30a which from what i have read will not offer much protection. should i wait to get a 5-10a fuse?

I dont have anything to plug the controller with should i wait to get a plug before i disconnect it and drive it?

Where do i put the coolant gauge?


This is not a rush job but I have been told that if i dont do this my new glow plugs will get fried anytime.

Thanks

My purple wire was the one farthest from the engine.

You really dont need a diode for it, dont know what you would use it for anyways.

Go to a parts store and get a in-line fuse holder. Will have a black plastic fuse holder in it, and two wires coming in and out, you just put it in betweek the battery and the switch.

What do you mean plugging the controller?

I put my coolant sensor on top of the water pump wear that pipe plug is

They wont get fried anytime, its just if the glow plug controller fails they most likely will fry (but mine didnt when my glow plug controller failed, I'm just lucky I guess ). Could happen in a couple days, or a dozen years, you never know.

 

[NCheek]

I put my coolant sensor on top of the water pump wear that pipe plug is .

Don't mean to hijack, but didn't icanfixall say something recently about the "top of the waterpump location" wasn't a terribly reliable place to put the coolant temp sensor??? Just wondering, justin, cause no one would want to see you boil anything over...

 

[FordGuy100]

Don't mean to hijack, but didn't icanfixall say something recently about the "top of the waterpump location" wasn't a terribly reliable place to put the coolant temp sensor??? Just wondering, justin, cause no one would want to see you boil anything over...

Yeah....but its easy to get to and give you a good idea. Maybe one day I will switch out the sensors. Put my aftermarket one where the stocker is, and put my stocker in the top of the pump. It would probably explain why my temps seemed so cool compared to some guys (I've never seen above 200*).

 

[seawalkersee]

Why not just wire in the 7.3 GPC? I know I asked this on my other thread, but only got the "its not as easy" answer.

Chris

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Why not just wire in the 7.3 GPC? I know I asked this on my other thread, but only got the "its not as easy" answer.

Chris

It's easy as pie (eating, not making it) - if you bolt it in place of the old glowplugs relay you can reuse the main power wires, and you'll only need to run a small trigger wire from a key-on fuse in your fuse panel to the GPC, and also ground the GPC using its own ground wire. It's literally a one-wire install, would you like a schematics and pictures of how exactly to do this?

 

[Agnem]

I was going to say the same thing.... It probably works to some extent, but may not reflect changes quickly.

 

[69dieselfreak]

It's easy as pie (eating, not making it) - if you bolt it in place of the old glowplugs relay you can reuse the main power wires, and you'll only need to run a small trigger wire from a key-on fuse in your fuse panel to the GPC, and also ground the GPC using its own ground wire. It's literally a one-wire install, would you like a schematics and pictures of how exactly to do this?

yes i would please thanks man

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Thought so, here ya go:

You must be registered for see images attach

Basically you move ALL the wires from one post of the old relay to the corresponding post of the solid-state relay, then power and ground the solid-state controller, and then remove the old relay trigger wires in a manner of your liking. Your stock WTS light will still work, so you can leave the blue wire with the plastic connector on it just hanging there (tis the ground for the 7.3 WTS light, you don't use it), or you can clip it off if you so feel like. If you also want a manual override switch on top of that system, add a wire from the small post with the rubber cap to the switch inside the cab and from there to a good ground. Clear as mud?

 

[seawalkersee]

Okay, in Fords infinate wisdom, I keep running into snags. No wire colors and no relay guage codes or anything of any help. Do the relay and controller on the 7.3 do the same thing? I mean are they the same thing because aparently on the 6.9 they are different....

Chris

 

[seawalkersee]

So, now that I have the new one wired in, do I leave this connected or cut/spice the wiring together past this?

You must be registered for see images attach

Chris

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Chris, sorry about the delay, I didn't see you posted that question about the relays on Oct. 1st - the 6.9 uses "divorced" relay and controller (as you already know), whereas the 7.3 has them integrated, as in the relay is right on top of the controller - if you look at the 7.3 assembly the relay looks like a 6.9 relay, and that black box it's mounted on and wired to is the controller itself.

As to what to do with the old controller - honestly I don't remember what we did with Jake's truck, I'll have to ask him or stop by his place one of these days and look at it.

One more thing, where is your new controller installed? The thing is somewhat sensitive to engine temperature, it uses that to determine how long to keep the glowplugs on - if you install it on the fender it will likely assume your engine is cold all the time and keep the plugs on for as long as its cold-start cycle is, which on my truck happens to be over 15 seconds.

 

[seawalkersee]

I didnt think about the heat. I will put it close to the inside of the inner fender or right below the battery. I would think the 6.9 system will continue to work in conjunction with the 7.3 system unless it has failed in the "open" mode. It is a pain wiring this thing.

Chris