broke the return barb off my fuel tank selector valve...

[TwoTone IDI]

not sure how it happened but that was the cause of my fuel leak.

is there a way to plug the return line and the selector valve to run this thing temporarily WITHOUT a fuel return line, or is that totally out of the question?

i have quite a bit of lead time for a new valve, and i would like to see if this thing will see some fire this afternoon.

 

[towcat]

IH's logic is the more fuel flowing through the pump, the longer the pump lives. the fuel return line is very critical to be there or you will pressurize the system which will lead to all sorts of grief.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

At least ten-gallons goes through the return-line for every gallon that gets burned.

If you still have the plastic lines, I would clip about four-inches off the main return-line and the same from the return-line that feeds whichever tank I wanted to use.

5/16 rubber-line fits over the plastic-line like it was made for it.

Slide a length of rubber-line over the two return-lines that just got their ends clipped.

Put two clamps at each joint.

If you intend to still use the electric valve, don't lose the clip-on fittings that you just clipped off.

This effectively by-passes the selector valve.


Far better is to use TWO manual selectors and JIC fittings.

 

[TwoTone IDI]

thanks for the info towcat. makes sense in a way.

MIDNIGHT RIDER thanks for your tidbit as well. i kept all the clips. thankfully i actually have some extras for when things go wrong. let me tell you that valve was not easy to get to. i may try your idea (since my rear tank leaks anyway) if i cant source a new valve quickly.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

MIDNIGHT RIDER thanks for your tidbit as well. i kept all the clips. thankfully i actually have some extras for when things go wrong. let me tell you that valve was not easy to get to. i may try your idea (since my rear tank leaks anyway) if i cant source a new valve quickly.

You probably should also bypass the DRAW-line also and just leave the selector out of the system.

Use 3/8-hose on the plastic draw-line.


I would not waste money on another electric selector-valve; the manual valves are trouble-free.

 

[plywood]

They also make brass connectors for that Nylon fuel line.

You shove the nylon line in there and when you pull on it, it sort of does a chinese finger trap/crimp on the nylon line and then you could screw it together with a barb either 3/8 or 5/16 depending on supply or return.

Actually you could probably do two of them back to back and it would act like a line mender if your lines would reach together close enough.

For me I found a hydraulic line shop nearby that has every connector you can think of and many more.

Maybe there is such thing as one that would connect your two female quick disconnects and then you wouldn't have to cut your lines.

 

[k_williams1982]

I believe I have a fuel selector valve in my spare parts if you still need one. It came off of a '85, but it should still work on yours.

 

[Diesel JD]

I also have an Echelin selector valve that worked when removed and the electric adapter to plug it into the Ford harness. Yours free+ shipping costs if you want it. No guarantees that it will work and one of the mounting earls is busted off but it can still be mounted. I'm pretty sure new rubber hoses would make it leak free and work. Your choice.

 

[RLDSL]

For sure , ditch the electric and put in manual valves. You have to replace it anyway, now is a great time to eliminate that headache. I ran a set of these valves for about $71 for the pair ( got the 4 way in case I pop an extra tank on ) and some real nice 5/16 hose that works with push lock fittings and an assortment of JIC ends and JIC to pipe adapters all for about $112 to re-plumb the truck. I did the whole thing in 5/16 since the OD of the metal feed lines to the rear tank are 5/16 and the ID much smaller so a 5/16 id line is plenty big enough to handle both legs of the system

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

For sure , ditch the electric and put in manual valves. You have to replace it anyway, now is a great time to eliminate that headache. I ran a set of these valves for about $71 for the pair ( got the 4 way in case I pop an extra tank on ) and some real nice 5/16 hose that works with push lock fittings and an assortment of JIC ends and JIC to pipe adapters all for about $112 to re-plumb the truck. I did the whole thing in 5/16 since the OD of the metal feed lines to the rear tank are 5/16 and the ID much smaller so a 5/16 id line is plenty big enough to handle both legs of the system

Did you notice whether the little ball down inside the valve is plastic or stainless-steel ??

Weatherhead is the brand-name of the ones on my truck; they look identicle to those you have; in fact, no matter the name-stamp, everyone I ever seen is the same design and mounting-pattern.

My 20-plus-year-old Weatherhead valves have the stainless ball; whereas, the brand-new Weatherheads I recently got have a plastic ball.

 

[RLDSL]

Did you notice whether the little ball down inside the valve is plastic or stainless-steel ??

Weatherhead is the brand-name of the ones on my truck; they look identicle to those you have; in fact, no matter the name-stamp, everyone I ever seen is the same design and mounting-pattern.

My 20-plus-year-old Weatherhead valves have the stainless ball; whereas, the brand-new Weatherheads I recently got have a plastic ball.

The ones I got were all metal very high quality . It;s nice not having that pain in the neck electric piece of junk on there any more waiting to ruin my day.