brakes are fixed

Jeff Dodson

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I installed a Master Cylinder for a 93 F450. I have to drill out the holes a little but when I got the braked bled out, the pedal is hard as new truck and only travel about 2 inches to the floor and dont fade to the floor at all. I test drove the truck and all works great, braking smooth and even. The Master Cylinder fromthe F450 is considerably larger, in fact it held a whole large bottle of fluid and the part that contains the valves is about twice rthe size of the original. Anyway, works great
 

jauguston

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Hopefully you checked to see that the master cylinder was the same bore as the stock one. If the newer master cylinder is a bigger bore the effective pressure applied to the brake lining will be less. Not a good thing!

Jim
 

icanfixall

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Larger volume per stroke + more fluid being pushed to the brakes. That + better brakes no matter what some say. It just works...
 

Mr_Roboto

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It isn't just basic hydraulics. There is the power input and its limits (the power output being your right leg).

The F450 master cylinder is larger because the wheel cylinders and calipers are larger.

What worked for me is "better" brake linings that gave higher friction levels at the same line pressures. $20 big box store linings don't cut it for work trucks.
 

jauguston

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Roboto,

Would you expand on your comment about changing to a better brake lining? My '86 E-350 cutaway chassis has the original Ford brake lining and I have always thought there must be a more agressive lining out there somewhere but I didn't know how to find it. Long lining life is not a concern but I would sure like to find something that is more aggressive but doesn't have to be heated up to work. I am at 15,000 lbs all the time so any help would be good.

Jim
 

jauguston

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A simple way to understand why a larger bore master cylinder reduces applied pressure would be to compare your brake system to how a hydralic bottle jack works. The jack has a small piston attached to the handle and a large ram that does the lifting. If you increase the diameter of the lifting ram without increasing the diameter of the piston the jack will lift more weight with the same force applied to the handle. If you increase the diameter of the piston connected to the handle without increasing the diameter of the ram the jack will lift less weight for the same amount of force applied to the handle. A hydralic brake system is a force transmitting system and volume of fluid flow does not enter into the equation.

Jim
 

Mr_Roboto

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Roboto,

Would you expand on your comment about changing to a better brake lining? My '86 E-350 cutaway chassis has the original Ford brake lining and I have always thought there must be a more agressive lining out there somewhere but I didn't know how to find it. Long lining life is not a concern but I would sure like to find something that is more aggressive but doesn't have to be heated up to work. I am at 15,000 lbs all the time so any help would be good.

Jim

Unless you've been buying your pads and shoes from Ford, you DON'T have the original linings. The parts store stuff is made cheap. You get what you pay for at $20 per set.

My wrecker weighs in at 9,500# empty and I can run 12 - 14K loaded. Since the weight is overhung behind the rear axle, front traction and braking ability is severely limited. Contrast this to a conventional vehicle, where the front brakes do 70% of the work.

High performance front pads are easy to find. I went with Hawk brand in the "Super Duty" compound. http://www.hawkperformance.com/truck/superduty.php

Rear shoes I went with Wagner "Severe Duty" which is a semi-metallic compound. These can be sourced from www.rockauto.com You'll probably have to order shoes for an F350 dually, they don't seem to list the E350 dually. Make sure the shoe diameter and width matches.

After changing linings, I have a completely different truck. I have less pedal effort for the same braking, and stronger maximum braking. Also the rear brakes now do a higher precentage of the braking. I DO have an occasional brake sqeal from the more aggressive linings, but it's a small price to pay.
 

Jeff Dodson

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This didnt really have anything to do with stopping efficiency, it had to do with the pedal fading to the floor, almost as if the M/C was not big enough to handle the weight of the truck. I know the brakes work GREAT now, and it stops as well if not better than it did. When I would pull my boat before and had to stop quickly and the pedal would go to the floor, it would scar me enough to get suction on cloth seats if you known what I mean:eek:
 

jauguston

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Roboto,

Thanks, that is just the kind of information I needed.

My rig is a 27' class C motorhome so the weight distribution issues are probably similar. I have a lot of overhang behind the rear axle and my 4kw Honda EV-4010 generator is in the right rear corner.

I bought this thing from a friend and literally have been through every system in it, I,m a retired crane operator and HD mechanic with a well equipped home shop so working on it is recreation (-:

I actually do have Ford brake lining, the rig has 41,000 miles on it now (31,000 when I bought it two years ago) . I have been completely through the hydralic part of the brake system and it was a mess, brake fluid was ugly black and stuff like wheel cylinder pistons were stuck and the bottom of the master cylinder had a groove rusted in it. Too many years of sitting and not being used. All is good now, the brake lining was still 75% or more so I left it.

I will talk to my parts guy friend and see if he can come up with the stuff you recommend.

Jim
 

oldmisterbill

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WOW Guess we better rethink a few things. For those pulling a heavy trailer a bigger diamiater master cylinder will definatly reduce applied pressure to the brake linings.It is a simple matter of ratio.A smaller diamiater cylinder will move a lower volume of fluid per stroke ,effectivly creating a ratio where as a given stroke of the pedel moves the wheel cylinder a shorter distance per inch of pedal travel,with more force(A basic law of hydraulics).A larger bore will move the wheel cylinder further creating a higher pedal (but having less pressure applied to the wheel cylinder) for the same force applied to the pedal in either size cylinder.
Darn this seems complicated for such a simple theroy.
Lets see -what we are trying to accomplish is to apply the brake linings against the drum at a high pressure -with less foot pressure exerted.This requires a ratio of some sort either created by mechaincal advantage or by hydraulic advantage.If we hooked a lever to the brake shoses we would want to move the pedal a long distance and at the same time move the shoes a short but adaquate distance,creating more pressure on the shoes-with less pedal effort.(kinda like 1st gear VS 3rd gear)
If we moved a cup of liquid (the Master cylinder)with 6 inches of pedal travel,we would create a higher volume with less Pounds per square inch of pressure.If we move 1/2 cup of liquid with 6 inches of pedal travel we would have less volume but more pounds per square inch -provided we exerted the same amount of pressure on the pedal.The more weight we need to stop the more pressure we need on the brake shoes.If we make too much pressure we can create a spongy feel just because of the distortion in the mechanical part of the brakes.
Yes a bigger bore will create a higher pedal but it will decrease braking power.
Yes we have sensitive brakes in our trucks,often a faulty RABS valve emphasizes brake adjustment problems, or any other problems we may have.
I personally feel from my own experience(I suffered with lousy brakes for a while till I came to the conclusion I had a faulty rabs valve(great minds think slowly)cookoo. On the road with a heavy load one time I replaced 2 master cylinders in 1 day still no brakes for a quick fix I bypassed my rabs valve,using the origional bore I can stop my truck with a 9,000 lb load and a 6,000 pound trailer(15,000 lbs total) very comfortably if my trailer brakes are working as they should.(I have always disliked the power of my trailers electric brakes so my truck does more than its share.
My conclusion -keep the brakes prpoerly adjusted ,with a good rabs valve things will work fine.
By the way I still don't have a rabs valve but when I don't have a trailer on my brakes are way too much,I experience lockup in the rear at the drop of a hat.I hardly use the old truck much now and will have a new rabs valve soon for safty sake.
Jeff I think you too may be dealing with a faulty RABS valve also.Your symptions sounded so much like mine.Most of our trucks brake pedals will sink to the floor if we stop the truck and stand on the brake pedal,but in normal use they are fine(I even question if this may be a sign of early RABS valve failure.The larger bore will move more fluid ,helping mask the problem. Now with no RABS valve mine doin't sink at all.
Jim you are completly correct I hope I helped you further explain this.I feel it is a very important area to completly understand.
I hope I made sense. Please comment.
Thanks Mr Bill
 
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Mr_Roboto

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Mr. Bill, just what I was thinking, "masking the problem". A larger master cylinder will also "fix" the problem of rear brakes being adjusted too loose.

And of course if you have an internally leaking master cylinder, a "new" F450 (or any new master cylinder) will work better.

My wrecker's brake pedal used to almost go to the floor when stopping. The ONE thing I did to fix it was manually adjust the rear brakes (yes the automatic adjusters work, apparently not enough).
 

oldmisterbill

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Mr. Bill, just what I was thinking, "masking the problem". A larger master cylinder will also "fix" the problem of rear brakes being adjusted too loose.
Mr Roberto
Exactly and also increase risk of blowing a wheel cylinder apart by expanding it too much!!!!
 

jauguston

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Mr Bill,

Thanks for the confirmation. I have tried two or three times in the past here to get that point across and all the experts told me I was crazy. I even tried the bottle jack analogy before but no one seemed to get it. Basic hydralics is not that hard.

There can be, as someone said, other issues wrong with the system that could be masked with a larger bore master cylinder but at the expense of reducing the potential pressure available to the brake lining.

The best improvement I have found so far to increase the available braking is the switch to the larger 10 3/4" brake booster from the stock (for my '86) 8" booster. I am hoping the information from Roboto on more aggressive pads and shoes will improve braking even more.

It is important to know the basics of the brake system are in good repair before you start swapping non-standard parts into the system looking for improvement. You could have unintended negative consequences.

On this last day of the year I wish you all a great 2007!!

Jim
 
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