Braaakes yay!

[CaptainMorgan556]

So I am doing the hydroboost conversion very soon. I'll get a brand new Unit off rock auto, with the bigger MC too. I am though replacing pretty much everything in my brake system, including the front and rear rubber lines, front calipers, pads and rotors, rear shoes, wheel cylinders drums too. Now while I'm down there, is there anything else I have to replace while I do this? Specifically when I pull the rear drums? Because I see you pull a bunch of stuff off from inside the axle before you can even get to the drum.
Any info would be greatly appreciated!

 

[crash-harris]

Shouldn't need to pull anything to get the drums off other than the wheels. Replace the springs and hardware in the drums when you do the shoes and the axle shaft seal. Not a bad idea to have the drums turned if you don't just get new ones.

 

[mblaney]

If you are keeping the truck for a while I recommend a stainless brake line set from Inline Tube.

Note: If you buy a new or rebuilt hydroboost it probably does not come with the push rod that connects to your brake pedal. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...rove-your-stopping-power-Switch-to-Hydroboost!

 

[icanfixall]

As far as I can tell you. Just remove the wheel and pull the drum off the rears. Thats it. Now the brake shoes are held to the backing plates with a odd looking coil type spring. That spring requires a special tool to remove. Best to buy that and have it ready. Hopefully towcat or others might post a pic of said tool.

 

[OLDBULL8]

In-Line tubing and Classic Tubing price for a complete SS brake line assembly is $350. With the SS clad hose to drum/caliper is extra. They might ask for your old line set. I just bought a set for my 99 PSD.

 

[Greg5OH]

Or tryin copper nickel line. 25 spool is liek 35 bucks. Also no rust. Volvo has been using this one forever.

 

[CaptainMorgan556]

Shouldn't need to pull anything to get the drums off other than the wheels. Replace the springs and hardware in the drums when you do the shoes and the axle shaft seal. Not a bad idea to have the drums turned if you don't just get new ones.

I thought with these 1 ton axles you had to take off the "Hub" to get to the drum? If not that'll make this a bit easier on me

 

[Greg5OH]

nope, thats the dana 80 i think.

 

[CaptainMorgan556]

[

If you are keeping the truck for a while I recommend a stainless brake line set from Inline Tube.

Note: If you buy a new or rebuilt hydroboost it probably does not come with the push rod that connects to your brake pedal. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...rove-your-stopping-power-Switch-to-Hydroboost!

Where can I find the pushrod? Because my local junkyard is pretty bare of the old Super dutys

 

[CaptainMorgan556]

In-Line tubing and Classic Tubing price for a complete SS brake line assembly is $350. With the SS clad hose to drum/caliper is extra. They might ask for your old line set. I just bought a set for my 99 PSD.

That's really expensive, maybe I'll be able to save up a bit more. Might as well go all out. Sheesh this is already costing me big bucks.

 

[CaptainMorgan556]

Shouldn't need to pull anything to get the drums off other than the wheels. Replace the springs and hardware in the drums when you do the shoes and the axle shaft seal. Not a bad idea to have the drums turned if you don't just get new ones.

How does one replace an axle shaft seal? Lol

 

[hce]

I just installed this booster on mine. It comes with the pushrod, even though the picture does not show it. Talon hydraulics does sell the pushrod, spring and holder.

 

[crash-harris]

Unbolt the 8 bolts on the hub that hold the shaft in, remove shaft. It's between the flame on the axle shaft and the hub face. Could also replace the seal at the end of the axle tube, but you'll have to get the correct socket to get the locking spindle nut off. One is right hand threaded and the other is left of I remember correctly.

I second the copper nickel brake lines. More expensive than steel, less expensive than stainless, and no tubing bender necessary.

 

[snicklas]

I thought with these 1 ton axles you had to take off the "Hub" to get to the drum? If not that'll make this a bit easier on me

On the early IDI's (~83-84) and earlier even back into the 70's the trucks ran a Dana D-70 axle. On the D-70, you indeed have to remove the axle shaft, retaining nut, bearings and the hub/brake drum assembly as they are one cast unit. In the late Bullnose IDI's and on, they switched to the Sterling 10.25 axle. With this axle, the brake drum and hub are separate parts and the brake drum slides over the lugs, and the hub, bearings and axle shaft need not be removed.

I remember working on a D-70 in a 73 F-250.... the Sterlings are much nicer to work on the rear brakes as the hub/drum is a heavy ******!!!!

 

[crash-harris]

On the early IDI's (~83-84) and earlier even back into the 70's the trucks ran a Dana D-70 axle. On the D-70, you indeed have to remove the axle shaft, retaining nut, bearings and the hub/brake drum assembly as they are one cast unit. In the late Bullnose IDI's and on, they switched to the Sterling 10.25 axle. With this axle, the brake drum and hub are separate parts and the brake drum slides over the lugs, and the hub, bearings and axle shaft need not be removed.

I remember working on a D-70 in a 73 F-250.... the Sterlings are much nicer to work on the rear brakes as the hub/drum is a heavy ******!!!!

The 1 ton Sterling I put in Bruiser a few years back has to have the axle shaft and locking spindle nut removed to get the drum/hub off, but the crew cab dually pickup the drum slides right off. Bruiser's 10.25 was fron a C&C truck though. Not site if they are different that way or I just need lots of penetrating oil.