black or grey rtv? which is better for oil pans

[ah1988ford]

so which rtv is better for the oil pan, rear main and front timing cover there are to many mixed feelings. One has to be better than the other, the black stuff says maximum oil resistance and the grey say high torque. On permitex's website it states both can be used for oil pans? so a little help trying to finish my bottom end in my 6.9 in the next week or so. I don't want any leaks!!!!

 

[Macrobb]

Get Permatex "One Minute Gasket". The stuff usually comes in pressurized cans, or big caulking style tubes. It's more expensive than other stuff, but it's amazing. I use it for everything I can, and it hasn't let me down yet. Just make sure to clean both surfaces of oil, apply(I like to lay a bead, then use my finger to 'work' it along the surface and make sure it adheres to every point), and squish together. Bolt in place, wait a few minutes and done.

 

[genscripter]

I don't want any leaks!!!!

With an IDI, that's impossible. Well, not impossible, but definitely a very high bar. After my recent rebuild, I haven't had any leaks (knock on wood), but I kind of went into the project not expecting it to be perfectly fluid-tight.

As for me, I used the Red RTV. Higher temp rating and good for timing covers, oil pans, t-stats, and pretty much anything except obviously the HG's. Also, the Red RTV on amazon comes in a handy caulking tube so you can put it in a standard caulking gun and not have to deal the stupid toothpaste-style tube that inevitably fails. And the caulking tube is cheaper by weight.

 

[BrianX128]

With an IDI, that's impossible. Well, not impossible, but definitely a very high bar. After my recent rebuild, I haven't had any leaks (knock on wood), but I kind of went into the project not expecting it to be perfectly fluid-tight.

Yeah, my 7.3 always has to leave one drip here or there. If you clean up one area and try to fix the leak from that area you might think you fixed it and it will either leak from there again in a few days, or just leak in a different area it seems.

My 6.9 on the other hand hasn't leaked a drip of anything since I've bought it which is almost scarier than if it was. Sometimes you just look over at it like "are you ok over there" makes you feel like it has no more oil or something haha.

 

[ShadetreeV]

Black Permatex "right stuff". As my engine builder at work says, sticks like cat sh** to a blanket.. I've never seen one of his engines leak yet.

 

[hce]

I agree with the Permetex, rightstuff one minute gasket maker. Ford Motorcraft also sells good rtv.

 

[hesutton]

I like permatex ultra copper RTV. Have used it on my oil pans and a light coat on my oil cooler gaskets for years.

Heath

 

[homelessduck]

"The Right Stuff" is what I always use. No leaks.

 

[Runningaford]

Has anyone ever used 100% silicon out of a tube that you'd buy at the hardware store? I know a transmission guy, who will only use 100% silicon; he actually said all the rtv stuff wasn't as good; he uses it everywhere.

Before anyone 'smart' says the guy's an idiot, he's got his own shop, ASE certified, does a lot of business, carries a national warranty, and so far the turbo400 he helped me with 5 years ago, runs strong.

EDIT: The above sounds a little crass; it wasn't intended to do that; I'm just curious for honest answers on the use of regular 100% silicon; not the silicon cheap stuff, but 100%.

 

[Macrobb]

I've used tub and tile caulk for sealing a transfer case to transmission. It was still just fine a couple years later when I pulled it.

Here's the thing: Any silicone should be OK, as long as all the surfaces are perfectly clean, rough enough for it to get ahold of, plenty of cure time is given, and there isn't too much stress on it.
The specialty silicones just do the job better in one way or another. "one minute gasket" sets up much faster, and is much stronger than regular silicone. The amount of force needed to shear it off is a *ton* more than just regular silicone. I use it not because I couldn't use tub and tile, but because I want it done /now/, and don't want to wait 3-24 hours for regular silicone to cure.

Also, regular silicone gives off acetic acid when it cures. This will rust bare, clean steel nearby.

 

[Fozz]

I have an International (now Navistar) dealer local to me, I bought a tube of their silicone RTV last time I did one. That's what the engine originally came with. I wouldn't be afraid to use any good name brand RTV. Just clean the mating surfaces as good as you can first.