Biting the bullet: Converting to electric fuel pump

[Cubey]

This looks like it might be a good alternative, not much more expensive. @Thewespaul mentioned to me that he runs it. Mr Gasket seems to be owned/made by Holley, so yeah.

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Holley Blue is about $150 and has an even higher 110gph and comes with a regulator too. 105gph would be fine though.

I have a hft fuel pressure test gauge that i could temporarily install in place of the bleeder valve, to be sure the sure of what pressure the IP is getting, and adjust the regulator as needed.

 

[Cubey]

EDIT: Changed my mind again, to Holley Red.

Ok, the plan is back on... with the Mr Gasket 105p pump w/ adjustable regulator. I found one for $104 shipped on ebay. I missed out on the 5% in Ebay bucks but oh well. The $15 back still applies.

I also ordered the matching Mr Gasket glass strainer. It should work fine down on the frame rail, so I don't need the lifting power of Facet.

I plan to have it set up like this:

[Tank]-[strainer]-[pump]-[regulator]-[30 micron Racor W/S]-[Stock MC filter]-[IP]

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[Selahdoor]

Yup. I'm using the glass strainer as well. I'm convinced that the reason most cheap electric fuel pumps fail is because of that teensy all metal filter they give you to screw into the pump. I don't think it takes much to clog those up. And once clogged, you can't see that they are.

 

[Cubey]

Yup. I'm using the glass strainer as well. I'm convinced that the reason most cheap electric fuel pumps fail is because of that teensy all metal filter they give you to screw into the pump. I don't think it takes much to clog those up. And once clogged, you can't see that they are.

Yep the 12D pump on my F250 has a cheap plastic in line filter before the tiny metal strainer and its still going strong after 2 years. I had to replace the filter once when the element collapsed in.

 

[Cubey]

@Thewespaul - Does the 5/16 return line play nice with the regulator? The 105p's instructions say to use 3/8. I'm guessing it's fine to just stick in a tee to the stock return line and use that for the regulator's return?

I wont hardly be able to put the regulator super close to the stock filter/IP. The plan is to have it between the pump and the 30 micron Racor W/S, with the stock 6.9 Motorcraft filter after the Racor. The pump will be fairly close to the tank on the frame, so it will push like it's meant to.

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[chillman88]

I won't hardly be able to put the regulator super close to the stock filter/IP. The plan is to have it between the pump and the 30 micron Racor W/S, with the stock 6.9 Motorcraft filter after the Racor. The pump will be fairly close to the tank on the frame, so it will push like it's meant to

I don't think it should be a problem as long as your pressure is correct to the IP (set at the filter head). As long as the regulator is before the water seperator so you don't blow it apart haha

I seem to remember Wes said to return the regulator just before the pump inlet to avoid overwhelming the return line.

 

[Cubey]

I don't think it should be a problem as long as your pressure is correct to the IP (set at the filter head). As long as the regulator is before the water seperator so you don't blow it apart haha

I seem to remember Wes said to return the regulator just before the pump inlet to avoid overwhelming the return line.

Makes sense. I was figuring on putting the regulator return around there anyway. Why run more return line than needed to tie it in? The setup will be:

tank-strainer-pump-reg-ws-filter-ip

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Last time I discussed with Wes he suggested the regulator go after the secondary fuel filter just before pump inlet.

 

[Cubey]

Last time I discussed with Wes he suggested the regulator go after the secondary fuel filter just before pump inlet.

That's what the instructions say, as close to "carburetor" as possible. I'm guessing so filters won't mess with pressure as they get dirty? But how would you do it unless you change the hard line to a hose? From what I understand, it's a bad idea to have a hose between the filter and IP in case the hose lets loose bits. It would be possible to put it between the WS filter and stock filter, so it only has to overcome the stock filter.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Yes I agree that is probably the most practical way. Folks usually use a braided stainless Teflon lined hose if going that way.

 

[Cubey]

Yes I agree that is probably the most practical way. Folks usually use a braided stainless Teflon lined hose if going that way.

I will have to see there's a practical way to put a permanent fuel pressure gauge tied into the filter head. I'm pretty sure the 6.9 van filter head isn't the same as trucks. Owning one of each, the connections are positioned differently, so it seems. I think the bleeder valve is after the filter element? So that would be the easiest place to tee it in, so the bleeder is still usable. I already have a HFT test gauge for the initial setup at least, and any tests I need to do later. But its not something I can see while driving.

 

[Thewespaul]

Yep get the reg as close to the pump as possible so it can factor in as much restriction as possible. You can run the return into the factory return no problem, it won’t be much volume with the 105p. Getting to the high performance pumps like the GSL392 you have to have a dedicated return.

 

[Cubey]

Yep get the reg as close to the pump as possible so it can factor in as much restriction as possible. You can run the return into the factory return no problem, it won’t be much volume with the 105p. Getting to the high performance pumps like the GSL392 you have to have a dedicated return.

So, placed between the 30 micon Racor WS filter and MC FD811 filter (?? micron) should be fine? Not sure the 30 micron would even make much difference if the regulator is before it. It's just there for the WS function since the stock WS is long gone.

I won't be tuning the engine for extra high performance, so I think/hope the 105p will do what I need.

 

[Ilovelamp]

So I just moved my factory filter set up right down but the tank and I was going to put a facet 40185 directly behind that... This set up looks far more complicated than what I was doing, will this not be sufficient?

 

[Cubey]

So I just moved my factory filter set up right down but the tank and I was going to put a facet 40185 directly behind that... This set up looks far more complicated than what I was doing, will this not be sufficient?

I would have said yes but Wes is more knowledgeable than I, and he says no. But somewhere in an old post, he says the 12D pump on my F250 is way too small. Yet, it runs and drives fine. I drove it to Vancouver BC from Arkansas and back in 2017. The only time it ever had problems was at 10k feet in Colorado, but that was air problem, not fuel. Once I dropped to 8.5-9k, it was fine again.

A previous owner put that on it btw, not me. In 2018, I towed a travel trailer with it but I admit, the truck is pretty weak feeling. But I assumed it was the nature of an NA IDI with a 3.55 rear pulling a 27ft trailer.

For general driving, the truck is ok. Slower on hills/mountains but it's NA, so what can you expect? Maybe a mechanical or higher flow electric pump would help it? Who knows.

Will the 40128 run your truck? Probably. Will it be fuel starved without actually stalling? Possibly.

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