BILLET ALUMINUM INJECTOR CAP

[G.W BUFFALO]

So how much will a set cost..

 

[antiqueford]

So how much will a set cost..

At over 2.5 hours of machine time per engine, it ain't gonna be cheap. Plus, what he's doing now is "government work" if the boss asks. If he's actually gonna start making money off these, he will probably need a slightly different arrangement.

I don't know how things work at his shop, but just trying to give everyone a little perspective about using the bosses equipment on something that could potentially burn somebody's truck down (the company may have concerns about liability).

Also, I'm sure he would like to make sure they work before he agrees to take everyone's money!

That said, I'm in for a set as well! Hurry up and get them tested

 

[88 Ford]

Ok Mel... I understand deadheading from 7 to 1 but where do you find the "T" and do you install it between the number 1 & 3 injector return line. What you posted is kinda hard to follow and yes.. A drawn pic would sure help. My rig naver had the return off the filter but I'm attempting to install a 7.3 kit now. I bought a bleeder valve from oregon fuel injection but the friggen usp fool delievered it to someone else. Said he layed the package on the front dorr porch mat.... Cripes... I don't have a door mat so where the hell is my parts.... Nobody seems to know. Now if I order another where will it end up... Sucks to be me. Rant switched off for now but will return at the drop of a hat..

Where are you placing the bleeder at? After the filter? Also does it help bleed the injectors easier?

I did see this. That's kinda what got me thinking about this project. Anyone know how they are working out for him?

That is the guy I was talking about. They don't leak...

 

[ADV]

At over 2.5 hours of machine time per engine, it ain't gonna be cheap. Plus, what he's doing now is "government work" if the boss asks. If he's actually gonna start making money off these, he will probably need a slightly different arrangement.

I don't know how things work at his shop, but just trying to give everyone a little perspective about using the bosses equipment on something that could potentially burn somebody's truck down (the company may have concerns about liability).


Also, I'm sure he would like to make sure they work before he agrees to take everyone's money!

That said, I'm in for a set as well! Hurry up and get them tested

Yes what he said. I have not thought about selling them yet, If they work out good I would like to sell them but this is a time consuming job! I am required to work a minimum of 46 hours a week and I would have to make the caps after work so these would be made in small amounts.

I should have the caps on my truck some time in the upcoming week and I will get a full report.

 

[NO_SPRK]

those look great! one less item to replace! IH should of made these from the start.

reminds me of my MBZ 200D return lines...

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[GenLightening]

For those that haven't seen the ones on FTE, they are 3 pieces that get soldered together, so much more labor intensive (and possible leak/weak point) than letting a CNC make them.

ADV, nice work!

 

[Exekiel69]

That looks very good, it would be nice to do away with the plastic caps. Thanks for sharing.

 

[rhkcommander]

Since there is more waste in doing one solid piece, maybe consider multiple ieces and leave assembly for buyers to reduce cost, if you do sell.

Two barbs and the center cap. Might even be able to adapt cheaper things like pipe that could fit or be machined more open to fit on injectors, modify that to work..

Copper is real easy to solder, most here could solder i think.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

what about threading the nipples to screw on?

 

[ADV]

Since there is more waste in doing one solid piece, maybe consider multiple ieces and leave assembly for buyers to reduce cost, if you do sell.

Two barbs and the center cap. Might even be able to adapt cheaper things like pipe that could fit or be machined more open to fit on injectors, modify that to work..

Copper is real easy to solder, most here could solder i think.

What I was going for on this project was a nice cap with no joints to weld or solder so that way I should have no possible way of it leaking. As for the waste its really not all that much and the stock I am using will cost about $12.50 to make a full set of caps. The price would be the time to make the caps. They could be made on a CNC lathe but then you would also have to put the cap part in a vertical CNC to drill the holes so there would be really no time savings. The other option would be a CNC lathe with live tooling that is able to drill holes but I have not been trained on the new machines that they recently got. Then there would be final assembly and testing each cap to make sure it don't leak. I would not feel right sending caps out for others to assemble. The way I have made the caps is the fastest and most reliable way of making them in my own opinion.

 

[88beast]

could you set the machine to run overnight? one cap a night will be a set a week roughly
and im in for a set if ya sell too or if you cant sell give the plans on here to bring to the shop and have our own made
also an idea is to have them sold threaded for pipe fittings as stated or the use of your own nipples as a replaceable nipple would make the set a lifetime thing if a motor is ever out or the cap somehow breaks a nipple off itd be much easier to replace than get ahold of you 10 years down the road and who knows a better job could come along by then

 

[ADV]

could you set the machine to run overnight? one cap a night will be a set a week roughly
and im in for a set if ya sell too or if you cant sell give the plans on here to bring to the shop and have our own made
also an idea is to have them sold threaded for pipe fittings as stated or the use of your own nipples as a replaceable nipple would make the set a lifetime thing if a motor is ever out or the cap somehow breaks a nipple off itd be much easier to replace than get ahold of you 10 years down the road and who knows a better job could come along by then

I am not able to set up my machine to run over night I have to leave it clean for the day shift person. If they do go into production I will be making a setup fixture so I can just throw it on the table clamp it down and hit go then there would be almost no setup time.

 

[jlwoods99]

Pics?

Could you post pics of this, I'll be doing mine when I get a day off.

Jim

This is just me, but in my opionion, you only need two kinds of caps. Ones with two nipples, and ones with one. The routing of factory turbo returns sucks, and no matter what truck I am building, or re-working, I route all my hoses the same way. Start and #7 with a dead end cap, and work forward, T-in the filter header between #1 and #3, then from number 1, cross over the IP mounting flange to #2, then work back to #8 and go to the return manifold. The IP has a direct return to the manifold in the back. I never lay a hose on the valley pan, and I never put a hose or a clamp where I can't see it easily. Trust me on this. It's the way you want to go.

 

[dyoung14]

I Really like what you have done, seems like a great idea im interested in these caps as well

 

[yARIC008]

those look great! one less item to replace! IH should of made these from the start.

reminds me of my MBZ 200D return lines...

You must be registered for see images attach

Well if you think about it, it would make no sensr for IH to make these out of metal and have them never fail. Goes something like this...

Ok we can make one set for $100 and have it never fail, or we could make about 100 for 1 cent out of plastic, then sell for $30 everytime one fails... which is everytime someone touches them...

Anyways, these things are pretty awesome and I bet you could sell a set to every single user on this site and beyond.