G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
So how much will a set cost..
So how much will a set cost..
Ok Mel... I understand deadheading from 7 to 1 but where do you find the "T" and do you install it between the number 1 & 3 injector return line. What you posted is kinda hard to follow and yes.. A drawn pic would sure help. My rig naver had the return off the filter but I'm attempting to install a 7.3 kit now. I bought a bleeder valve from oregon fuel injection but the friggen usp fool delievered it to someone else. Said he layed the package on the front dorr porch mat.... Cripes... I don't have a door mat so where the hell is my parts.... Nobody seems to know. Now if I order another where will it end up... Sucks to be me. Rant switched off for now but will return at the drop of a hat..
I did see this. That's kinda what got me thinking about this project. Anyone know how they are working out for him?
At over 2.5 hours of machine time per engine, it ain't gonna be cheap. Plus, what he's doing now is "government work" if the boss asks. If he's actually gonna start making money off these, he will probably need a slightly different arrangement.
I don't know how things work at his shop, but just trying to give everyone a little perspective about using the bosses equipment on something that could potentially burn somebody's truck down (the company may have concerns about liability).
Also, I'm sure he would like to make sure they work before he agrees to take everyone's money!
That said, I'm in for a set as well! Hurry up and get them tested
Since there is more waste in doing one solid piece, maybe consider multiple ieces and leave assembly for buyers to reduce cost, if you do sell.
Two barbs and the center cap. Might even be able to adapt cheaper things like pipe that could fit or be machined more open to fit on injectors, modify that to work..
Copper is real easy to solder, most here could solder i think.
could you set the machine to run overnight? one cap a night will be a set a week roughly
and im in for a set if ya sell too or if you cant sell give the plans on here to bring to the shop and have our own made
also an idea is to have them sold threaded for pipe fittings as stated or the use of your own nipples as a replaceable nipple would make the set a lifetime thing if a motor is ever out or the cap somehow breaks a nipple off itd be much easier to replace than get ahold of you 10 years down the road and who knows a better job could come along by then
This is just me, but in my opionion, you only need two kinds of caps. Ones with two nipples, and ones with one. The routing of factory turbo returns sucks, and no matter what truck I am building, or re-working, I route all my hoses the same way. Start and #7 with a dead end cap, and work forward, T-in the filter header between #1 and #3, then from number 1, cross over the IP mounting flange to #2, then work back to #8 and go to the return manifold. The IP has a direct return to the manifold in the back. I never lay a hose on the valley pan, and I never put a hose or a clamp where I can't see it easily. Trust me on this. It's the way you want to go.
those look great! one less item to replace! IH should of made these from the start.
reminds me of my MBZ 200D return lines...
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