Best AC parts for a 7.3 idi

[Young Buck]

I have a 1983 f350 with a v-belt 7.3 idi That has already been converted to 134a but does not blow cold. Truck is in excellent shape and I am looking to have the coldest most relatable ac system possible. I would like to redo the entire system with a budget of $2,000. I’m ready to order parts however I’m having a hard time figuring out what parts will work best. There seems to be a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks for the help,
Jack

 

[riphip]

rockauto.com in the vendors area

 

[CDX825]

For that kind of money you could buy all new everything a couple times over but that's really not needed.

Need to figure out whats going on with what you have and go from there. My recommendation would be to buy a set of gauges and a vacuum pump so you can at least do the work yourself.

Things you need to look at are: Does the system have pressure? Is the AC compressor clutch cycling with the AC on? What are the pressures with it running?

 

[Young Buck]

I am not interested in salvaging the old system. I would like all new quality components that will provide the best performance. I have the factory parts manuals for the truck but it is my understanding the original equipment in 83-92 does not accommodate 134a as well as other components. Looking for maximum performance and reliability

 

[Randy Bush]

I am not interested in salvaging the old system. I would like all new quality components that will provide the best performance. I have the factory parts manuals for the truck but it is my understanding the original equipment in 83-92 does not accommodate 134a as well as other components. Looking for maximum performance and reliability

I would disagree with this . I have a 90 IDI with 134a, all factory system, in it. Puts out very cold air even in 90 + temps.

 

[saburai]

I am not interested in salvaging the old system. I would like all new quality components that will provide the best performance. I have the factory parts manuals for the truck but it is my understanding the original equipment in 83-92 does not accommodate 134a as well as other components. Looking for maximum performance and reliability

To me at least, it seems that these days finding new and quality parts is increasingly difficult. So much is manufactured in China and the quality is hit-or-miss at best...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

To me at least, it seems that these days finding new and quality parts is increasingly difficult. So much is manufactured in China and the quality is hit-or-miss at best...

Sad but true.

 

[BBB]

Go to techs choice ac parts. I have used for many years never had a issue very good prices.

Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk

 

[SuperDave]

I recently replaced the entire system on my idi swapped 88 bronco, I got everything from rock auto relatively cheap and I replaced everything. I did spring for the four seasons new compressor, it came as a kit with a dryer and an orfice tube plus the oil and a new set of orings but the condenser, evaporator and hoses I just got the cheapest they had. A/c is pretty cold now and definitely worth the cash to not have to sweat to death in traffic

 

[BrianX128]

I have a 1983 f350 with a v-belt 7.3 idi That has already been converted to 134a but does not blow cold. Truck is in excellent shape and I am looking to have the coldest most relatable ac system possible. I would like to redo the entire system with a budget of $2,000. I’m ready to order parts however I’m having a hard time figuring out what parts will work best. There seems to be a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks for the help,
Jack

Every idi I've messed with that had the "cool but not cold" symptoms could be fixed for 50$. The orifice tube was clogged, high side pressure was too high, and after replacing that, recharging the system, making sure the re-circulation door operates, and putting ball valves in to re-route the coolant away from the heater core it's frigid. For another 50$ you can toss a helper "push" fan onto the condenser in front of the radiator, they fit behind the grill and there are holes you can easily mount the fan to and run a relay to the low pressure switch on the evaporator to have the fan only run when the compressor is on.

 

[SuperDave]

Every idi I've messed with that had the "cool but not cold" symptoms could be fixed for 50$. The orifice tube was clogged, high side pressure was too high, and after replacing that, recharging the system, making sure the re-circulation door operates, and putting ball valves in to re-route the coolant away from the heater core it's frigid. For another 50$ you can toss a helper "push" fan onto the condenser in front of the radiator, they fit behind the grill and there are holes you can easily mount the fan to and run a relay to the low pressure switch on the evaporator to have the fan only run when the compressor is on.

I wish there was a way to have a place for a 4 pin high side pressure switch so an add on condenser fan could be controlled by the pressure reaching a certain level and could be wired to the compressor circuit should the pressure reach a dangerous level it would shut off instead of damaging something else.

 

[BrianX128]

It doesn't hurt anything for a push fan to run all of the time though. I use mine off a toggle switch when towing just for extra air flow through the radiator. Pushes more heat at the fan clutch in town to keep it locked up so temps don't spike in stop and go traffic.

 

[Dirtleg]

I wish there was a way to have a place for a 4 pin high side pressure switch so an add on condenser fan could be controlled by the pressure reaching a certain level and could be wired to the compressor circuit should the pressure reach a dangerous level it would shut off instead of damaging something else.

If you have the serp belt system compressor you can get the hoses and evaporator off a 94. The hoses have the port for a high pressure switch and will mount to the compressor just fine but require the newer evaporator as the connection point is different.

Or you can add a high pressure switch to your high side gauge port and put it in series with the clutch solenoid.

 

[square1]

Don't know about "best" but when I redid mine NAPA was the only helpful local source.