argve
Resident Fruitcake
Ok here is the deal...
Here at work start truck up, cranks a little slow but starts just fine. Actually was not cranking that slow just a smidgen slower than it should. Drive home nets a hair over 14 volts on the dash gauge (can I trust it - don't know).
Pull in garage shut key off go inside come back out 15 mins later hit key - NOTHING, just a half hearted 1/4 rev. Dang... jump in wife's trusty steed to run Sherman to school. Come back check batt voltage via dash gauge - 8-9 volts - not good.
Open hood hook up fancy dancy charger (has voltage gauge built in, along with microprocessor to test condition of batts) charger says 12 volts - humm.... so throw on manual 20 amps scale for 10 mins - pulling 17.8~15.3 amps - eek! must have been low.
Flip on 275 amp boost and hit starter fires right up with authority. Unhook charger system - grab Fluke meter (just been calibrated at work so I know it's good)... Shows 14.5 volts at the terminals, run over to second batt (main batt - reading should be same because they are in parallal but figured what the ford give it a shot) 12 volts
Wait a cotton picking minute is what I'm thinking... So stab from batt neg post to batt positive post = 12v
Stab from neg post to positive terminal = 14.5v
Stab from pos post to pos term = 1.5v
Ahha must be corrosion, so go to dig out battery terminal cleaner brush - can't find that thing to same my sweet butt for nothing... so truck currently sits in garage waiting on me. I think the corrosion has gotten me. Because as soon as you shut the engine off and cycle the key back to the on position the dash gauge shows 8~9 volts...
Just thought I would throw this up incase someone else thinks that dirty connections can not cause you headaches... My connections actually look good from the outside, must be some stuff at the clamping point it's self.
Here at work start truck up, cranks a little slow but starts just fine. Actually was not cranking that slow just a smidgen slower than it should. Drive home nets a hair over 14 volts on the dash gauge (can I trust it - don't know).
Pull in garage shut key off go inside come back out 15 mins later hit key - NOTHING, just a half hearted 1/4 rev. Dang... jump in wife's trusty steed to run Sherman to school. Come back check batt voltage via dash gauge - 8-9 volts - not good.
Open hood hook up fancy dancy charger (has voltage gauge built in, along with microprocessor to test condition of batts) charger says 12 volts - humm.... so throw on manual 20 amps scale for 10 mins - pulling 17.8~15.3 amps - eek! must have been low.
Flip on 275 amp boost and hit starter fires right up with authority. Unhook charger system - grab Fluke meter (just been calibrated at work so I know it's good)... Shows 14.5 volts at the terminals, run over to second batt (main batt - reading should be same because they are in parallal but figured what the ford give it a shot) 12 volts
Wait a cotton picking minute is what I'm thinking... So stab from batt neg post to batt positive post = 12v
Stab from neg post to positive terminal = 14.5v
Stab from pos post to pos term = 1.5v
Ahha must be corrosion, so go to dig out battery terminal cleaner brush - can't find that thing to same my sweet butt for nothing... so truck currently sits in garage waiting on me. I think the corrosion has gotten me. Because as soon as you shut the engine off and cycle the key back to the on position the dash gauge shows 8~9 volts...
Just thought I would throw this up incase someone else thinks that dirty connections can not cause you headaches... My connections actually look good from the outside, must be some stuff at the clamping point it's self.