Battery grounds

kc0stp

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I know the grounds for the battery go to the engine however Im planning on relocating my batteries to the bed (mainly because a co-worker gave me 3 group 31 optima yellows and clean up the engine bay some) so was wondering if instead of running the cables straight to the engine if I could ground them to the frame and then run a ground from the frame to the engine on either side? Failing that anything wrong with just running 1 ground cable from the batteries to a engine ground then running a cable from there to the other ground(s)?
 

ocnorb

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Either way should work, but if you use the frame as the ground conduit you double your chances of failure with the extra connections.

What about coming out of the bed and grounding to one of the bellhousing bolts, then running a ground from there to the frame?
 

riotwarrior

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First, damn fine score!

Second, why not frame mount those puppies down under the pass side of cab? Fab up some sweet bracket and you keep your bed space, you can run shorter cables and make the ground to the block as normal.

Third, are you planning on relocation of the solenoid too? If so you will need to address the charge lead from the alternator as well.

Fourth...Did I mention wicked good score....and ya what you say would/could work, IMHO better to frame mount them..that's my goal eventually...
 

kc0stp

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First, damn fine score!

Second, why not frame mount those puppies down under the pass side of cab? Fab up some sweet bracket and you keep your bed space, you can run shorter cables and make the ground to the block as normal.

Third, are you planning on relocation of the solenoid too? If so you will need to address the charge lead from the alternator as well.

Fourth...Did I mention wicked good score....and ya what you say would/could work, IMHO better to frame mount them..that's my goal eventually...

Main reasson their going in the bed is that my fab skills/access to metal is limited (okay at welding but lacking in the metal department..heck Im semi struggling to find metal to make brackets for the trans cooler) and also want to eventully get this as it would make the longer tows to the races easier (especially if I eventully go to W85) and gives me a watertight place to store tools/parts/J.I.C. recovery & first aid/batteries :)

Ill be honest and admit I havnt looked to closly at the positive cables yet, but figure besides the batteries Ill probbly leave everything in the engine bay, just trying to limit how much/long 4/0 cable Im running (debating 4/0 vs 3/0 but with a minimal price diffrence leading towards 4/0)
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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The methods already described will work, so long as BIG CABLE GROUND is making it to the starter.

The BIG HOT cable(s) connects directly to the starter and it also requires just as much GROUND, whether via the block being GROUNDed or the starter itself.

I have remote-mounted multiple batteries in several of our trucks.

I recommend you first just get your's up and running, and then you can piece-by-expensive-piece upgrade the system to perfection.

I won't go into all the details; but, on my truck, I have THREE Group-31Ss; TWO of these batteries power the starter and ONLY the starter; the third battery handles EVERYTHING ELSE.

On the two frame-mounted starter batteries, I have a 4-position Cole-Hersee battery switch; OFF, BATT-1, BATT-2, BOTH.

Instead of my big very-long expensive HOT cable being in direct connection to either of the batteries, where it is subject to get eaten up by corrosion or turn all green and cruddy inside, I have the big main HOT cable terminated at the Cole-Hersee switch and, then, two separate much shorter cables from the switch to the batteries.

Thus, the short easily replaced cables take any corrosion or arc damage, leaving the long main cable clean as a whistle.

I handled the GROUNDs the same way.

I tapped/threaded a 3/8 bolt through a cross-member of the steel flat, using plenty of anti-sieze to keep things electrically healthy.

Short GROUND cables connect the batteries to this bolt, with the long, harder-to-replace, GROUND cables being also attached to the bolt, away from the corrosive effects of the battery.

This bolt is also a good place to route various other GROUND wires.

I like a direct cable GROUND to the engine-block, although I have some trucks that have a short cable from battery to frame and a short cable from frame to block and these trucks have no more problems than the preferred method.


The Cole-Hersee switch allows me to easily completely turn OFF the batteries, accomplishing the same effect as removing the cables, plus the OFF position is a good theft/tampering deterent.

Also, I can switch to either battery for testing purposes, and also to isolate a battery that may have a dead cell or such, all with me not having a wrench in my hand and not even dirtying my Sunday-go-to-meeting britches.


One learns these little conveniences as they get older. :)
 

riotwarrior

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That is a talent I have not as yet mastered.

If I ever get the first picture figured out, I will plaster these sites with them. :)

First get an account at photobucket....upload your images there....

Then when you want to add a picture here...go to your photo bucket PB account...move mouse over the pic...a box below pic comes up...click on the line that says "direct link" it should say copied for a moment when you do...

Then come back here add this
You must be registered for see images
tag on the end and voila done!
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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First get an account at photobucket....upload your images there....

Then when you want to add a picture here...go to your photo bucket PB account...move mouse over the pic...a box below pic comes up...click on the line that says "direct link" it should say copied for a moment when you do...

Then come back here add this
You must be registered for see images
tag on the end and voila done!




You make it sound easy.

Thanks.
 
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