Axle locker options?

[u2slow]

My Detroit Locker experiences are the same as as Diesel-brad's.

The reason I chose the Detroit was because I had the LSD already.... you need the open diff for the Lockright. I went with a Lockright in the front because of the price and ease of install. Both are holding up great. Truck gets driven about 90% on pavement.

IMO, it kind of sucks driving unlocked trucks now.

 

[Jbevs]

Of course, you are correct about not having different size tires with any type of non-open diff. Just to be clear, my example was about slight differences -- from different wear and tire rotation.

I just want to make sure someone reading this doesn't get the wrong idea thinking they could use 2 different sized tire for whatever reason and the axle will function fine with a locker. I understand the same nominally sized tire that have a reasonable amount of wear making them 'different' sizes being used though.

 

[argve]

I have used a Lock Right Locker in my dodge and loved it. I would get the ratcheting sound and she would buck a little if I came into a tight corner in a parking lot but pressing in on the clutch would end that quickly. I never had a problem in the ice and snow with the back end breaking loose and kicking sideways unless I wanted a problem. Both would grab traction and made my 2wd feel like a 4wd because with an open diff you only have one leg kicking and it's amazing how much more forward motion you gain by having both churning back there. I went with the lock right because of price and ease of install over the air locked unit and I'll do it again in the future on my Fords.

 

[Black dawg]

a locker in the rear of a long fullsize will be really mild. a locker in the front is asking for broken stuff.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Mine would lock one side, and not necessarily the other if that tire couldn't slip a bit. I remember going around a corner, the outside wheel is unlocked (going faster then the inside) and the inside is providing all the torque. After the turn, it was a roll of the dice if it engaged both sides. Another scenario - one tire is slightly larger then the other. Since the larger tire wants to rotate faster, it becomes disengaged and all the torque is on the other tire.

Anyway, found this page on Detroit Lockers. They describe some of the same bad habits I experienced years ago, but they also have a softer lock version now (maybe what you have).

Typically the INSIDE tire would disengage on a turn, not the outside

 

[FordGuy100]

I've always wanted a locker. I have a Dana 70 though and looking they list like 5 different versions, I have no idea which one I have.

 

[MR.T]

Typically the INSIDE tire would disengage on a turn, not the outside

Well Brad, you're testing my memory of 24 years ago . Here's a quote from the Eaton Detroit Locker manual:

When negotiating a turn (outside wheel disengaged), the inside wheel under conditions of poor traction may receive excessive torque, which could cause it to break traction momentarily until its speed is equal to the outside wheel. This will result in re-engagement of the outside wheel thus allowing both wheels to be driven. This condition is most noticeable with
lightly loaded axles.

 

[u2slow]

It depends if you are under power on the turn or not. Under power its easier for the truck to 'overdrive' the inside tire than to drag the outside.

This is why your driving style tends to change once you have a locker for while. I tend to steer through turns either coasting or on deceleration. And slow speed turning (i.e. parking lots) becomes short events of engaging the clutch. That's gives you a shot of momentum and immediately releases the locker so you can turn without any scrub.

This is what I like about the Detroit/Lockright types - it is always there, and you control it by how you drive.

 

[riotwarrior]

I've always wanted a locker. I have a Dana 70 though and looking they list like 5 different versions, I have no idea which one I have.

Is the underside of your diff completely smooth? if so it's likely a 70U

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Which is what I believe this one to be.

 

[MR.T]

It depends if you are under power on the turn or not. Under power its easier for the truck to 'overdrive' the inside tire than to drag the outside.

This is why your driving style tends to change once you have a locker for while. I tend to steer through turns either coasting or on deceleration. And slow speed turning (i.e. parking lots) becomes short events of engaging the clutch. That's gives you a shot of momentum and immediately releases the locker so you can turn without any scrub.

This is what I like about the Detroit/Lockright types - it is always there, and you control it by how you drive.

That's bringing back fond memories of my old truck. You're spot on, that's how I drove it too. It sort of teaches you. On icy highways though, that torque transfer (from one wheel to the other) would pucker me up. Anyway, mine was a 24+ years ago version on a short wheel base. Wish I still had it...

 

[BrandonMag]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm leaning towards a True Trac for the front. The Detroit Locker seems a bit too aggressive for my driving style. I may go with a True Trac for the rear as well.

 

[NMB2]

one tire is slightly larger then the other. Since the larger tire wants to rotate faster, it becomes disengaged and all the torque is on the other tire

actually the smaller tire will want to rotate faster, to keep up with the bigger tire.

 

[RLDSL]

I've got a couple of Volvos that came from the factory with Dana 30 rear ends with eaton auto lockers in them Those Swedes flat know how to make a vehicle that will track on snow. If you put a set of studded snow tires on the thing it's unstoppable, I don't care how icy, with rain pouring down on it. The only time that locker can feel a bit squirrily is when the snow gets so deep that it is higher than the floorpan and your tires really aren';t getting any where near hitting anything solid, then the tail end can kick out but you just feather the throttle a bit to unlock the wheels and intermittantly and keep it pointed where you want it to go

If you are going to have a locker and drive on snow and ice, don't run highway tires, or yes, you are going to do spinouts. Get either studded snow tires or non studded friction snow tires, but DO NOT attempt to drive a locker on ice and snow with tires marked M+S. Any tire that doesn't have a rib tread can call itself a mud and snow tire, but does not qualify as a true winter tire unless it is bearing the little mountain snowflake stamp on the side. Ironically these tires don't always have as aggressive a tread as the M+S tires, but they usually aside from studs have things like glass fibers or silica or carbide or other nifty grabby things imbeded into the rubber compounds so they grip the ice better
I run Nokians that are made in Finland on my snow cars. I figure if you want to try to drive on snow and ice, buy tires from folks who live in the stuff the better part of the year ( check out their test track... a frozen lake in Finnish Lapland that's been expanded to a larger testing ground to include climbing 20% ice covered grades, heck, that's hard enough without the ice. With traction like that you REALLY don't need to worry about a locker giving you trouble on ice THese would be the ones for our trucks for average use

 

[argve]

I ranBF Goodrich Commercial TA's on my dodge with a locker and didn't have a problem in the ice and snow unless I wanted to have a problem But they were commercial grade tires so

 

[JackSpeed]

I have had nearly every version of product listed here and the only one I would stay clear of is the Lock Right. They may work in 4 cyl Toyotas but they can not withstand the forces excerted from heavier trucks. I have broken 3 Lock Rights and One Detroit EZ locker that were in my 84 and 74 Broncos.

One thing to consider about lockers in general is that they usually will have about 30 degrees of rotation at the pinion before they engage. This gives the feel of extreme drivetrain slop when installed in the rear axle and is even more noticeable with a manual transmission.

Living in Washington I would recommend an ARB for the front as the first step. In the open position driving on ice wil be unaffected. If you put a locker or even a stiff posi in the front ice driving will require a different driving style- think rally car style drifting to keep the front from sliding sideways unintentionally.

I run a Detroit in the rear and an OX in the front of my Bronco. The selectable front locker is the best investment I have ever made. Selectable lockers pay for themselves, especially when you consider the total cost involved of installing any type of locker it's only a few hundred bucks more. Then you can keep the diff unlocked for ice or high speed sand/desert and lock it in for mud, snow, and rocks.

The Dana 50 will not have compatible parts with a Dana 60. Think of the Dana 50 as a beefed up Dana 44. If you have never hurt the Dana 50 you probably won't. Keep in mind that a locker will put more stress on the axle (especially u-joints) so you do have to be a little bit careful with the throttle while turning tightly.