Axle locker options?

[BrandonMag]

I've been using the eff two fiddy for some hunting lately and I've realized how much open diffs suck.

So I've decided that I need to do some upgrades to the Sterling 10.25 and Dana 50.

Here's where I'm at so far:

Unquestionably, ARB lockers are the best way to go. But that's going to cost over $2K just for parts. That's more than I want to spend.

Options for the Sterling 10.25: I'm considering a Detroit Locker. From what I've read, the Locker is fairly aggressive and leads to noticeably increased tire wear. I drive my truck about 95% of the time on pavement. Would the Detroit Locker be too aggressive? If so, what would be a better option? Keep in mind, I'm not looking to build a killer off-road machine, and when I do take the truck off-road, I'm not beating on it. Just getting through some muddy and snowy areas where traction is less than ideal.

Options for the Dana 50: I'm considering a Detroit True Trac. From what I've read, they're a superior alternative to a limited slip-type setup because of the gear design. I've got a friend that had one in a Jeep CJ and said it was awesome (and the CJ is his mud toy).
While I'm not keen on getting an ARB locker because of the price, I recall reading somewhere that the ARB locker for the Dana 50 also works in the Dana 60. Is this true? The reason I ask is because I may do a Dana 60 upgrade at some point in the future and it would be nice to be able to pull out whatever I end up putting in the Dana 50 in the 60.

 

[Jbevs]

I would go with a lockrite in the back. I had one and really liked it. The biggest plus IMO of the lockrite over a detroit is installation price. With a lockrite there is no setting up of the gears or anything. Install is a couple of hours TOPS.

 

[freebird01]

just put the tru-trac in the front and leave the rear open...then when you know your gunna be offroad just lock your hubs and leave it in 2wd...when you get stuck pull the lever into 4x4...

you will be surprised just what a front locker will do. and with the weight of that big diesel over the front axle it will pull like a freight train

 

[Diesel_brad]

I have a detroit in my pulling truck. And while i do NOT do alot of on road driving, the on road driving i have done was quite enjoyable. I have yet to hear it clunk, bang, or ratchet around corners(i was told these were all common things that would happen)

I am going to put a detroit in my 86 if the limited slip is worn out when i finally ever get that axle in

 

[hesutton]

I have Detroit Tru-Trac diff. in the rear of my F250. It is a great option for me. It certainly does a better job than standard clutch/cone type LS diffs that I'll used in the past. And, it doesn't kill the tires or chirp like a Standard Detroit locker. It doesn't need any "friction modifier" in the gear oil like clutch/cone LS do. It is simple, sturdy, and just plain work. I've been very satified with it.

Heath

 

[freebird01]

I have a detroit in my pulling truck. And while i do NOT do alot of on road driving, the on road driving i have done was quite enjoyable. I have yet to hear it clunk, bang, or ratchet around corners(i was told these were all common things that would happen)

I am going to put a detroit in my 86 if the limited slip is worn out when i finally ever get that axle in

part of that has to do with the setup and the vehicle weight. I have one in the back of my samurai and it sounds like a gun shot going off sometimes on tight parking lot turns and chirps and carry's on

 

[Diesel_brad]

part of that has to do with the setup and the vehicle weight. I have one in the back of my samurai and it sounds like a gun shot going off sometimes on tight parking lot turns and chirps and carry's on

The OP is talking about the locker going in a fullsize pick up, right?

 

[freebird01]

The OP is talking about the locker going in a fullsize pick up, right?

yes but i was just commenting on your post... with a locked rear you will see more tire wear if its 95% on the street.

i've wheeled with just a front locker and i've wheeled with just a rear locker.... personally i like the front locker better. With the weight of the engine over the wheels it tends to pull you along better then the rear locker will push you.

also for a street driven rig it makes more sense because then in 2wd is acts normal and there is no worry if it will act up or not.

your results could most deffinitly be based on the setup as well. depending on what shims are used and how tight the locker was assembled will effect how it acts by quite a bit...a locker thats assembled more loosely will tend to make more noise while one thats tight will just keep the tires locked when on the pavement and will act more like a spool until a lot of pressure is exerted to unlock it.

 

[MR.T]

I've got a standard Ford LS in the rear of this rig, but I put Detroit Lockers in a previous truck -- both front and rear. I hated the locker on pavement, and icy pavement was dangerous.

Unless they've changed, a Detroit Locker only drives one wheel on hard pavement. It's like having a ratchet on each axel, whichever one engages first has all the torque. This was a short-bed truck and it was always pushing to one side or the other while accelerating. It was great off-road and in snow, terrible everywhere else.

 

[Diesel_brad]

I've got a standard Ford LS in the rear of this rig, but I put Detroit Lockers in a previous truck -- both front and rear. I hated the locker on pavement, and icy pavement was dangerous.

Unless they've changed, a Detroit Locker only drives one wheel on hard pavement. It's like having a ratchet on each axel, whichever one engages first has all the torque. This was a short-bed truck and it was always pushing to one side or the other while accelerating. It was great off-road and in snow, terrible everywhere else.

Both of my tires were locked all the time untill you put enough force on one or the other(hard turns on pavement) to disengage one

 

[MR.T]

Both of my tires were locked all the time untill you put enough force on one or the other(hard turns on pavement) to disengage one

I don't understand why we have different experiences, mine was about 24 years ago - so perhaps yours is more recent and there's been improvements?

 

[Diesel_brad]

I don't understand why we have different experiences, mine was about 24 years ago - so perhaps yours is more recent and there's been improvements?

Got me. Mine is about 4 years old.

But what i dont get is why your was not engaged all the time. that is suppose to be how they work, unlike a limited slip that is basickly an open rear till you start spinning one tire then the clutches grab

 

[MR.T]

Got me. Mine is about 4 years old.

But what i dont get is why your was not engaged all the time. that is suppose to be how they work, unlike a limited slip that is basickly an open rear till you start spinning one tire then the clutches grab

Mine would lock one side, and not necessarily the other if that tire couldn't slip a bit. I remember going around a corner, the outside wheel is unlocked (going faster then the inside) and the inside is providing all the torque. After the turn, it was a roll of the dice if it engaged both sides. Another scenario - one tire is slightly larger then the other. Since the larger tire wants to rotate faster, it becomes disengaged and all the torque is on the other tire.

Anyway, found this page on Detroit Lockers. They describe some of the same bad habits I experienced years ago, but they also have a softer lock version now (maybe what you have).

 

[Jbevs]

You do NOT want to use two different sized tires with a locker or LS. I have seen some terrible carnage pics from a guy using a smaller spare with a lincoln locked axle. On a LS I would assume you would just burn up the clutches in a hurry. It's possible on a lunchbox locker you would shear the pins in a lockrite or whatever other shear pins the locker you're discussing uses.

 

[MR.T]

You do NOT want to use two different sized tires with a locker or LS. I have seen some terrible carnage pics from a guy using a smaller spare with a lincoln locked axle. On a LS I would assume you would just burn up the clutches in a hurry. It's possible on a lunchbox locker you would shear the pins in a lockrite or whatever other shear pins the locker you're discussing uses.

Of course, you are correct about not having different size tires with any type of non-open diff. Just to be clear, my example was about slight differences -- from different wear and tire rotation.