awww what the hell///

[sle2115]

I don't think the probe depth matters, as long as it is deep enough to be in the hot air stream, but that's just my opinion. The more contact it has with the hot air the better.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

how deep should i have the probe in?

So long as the tip of the probe is somewhere in the exhaust stream, it is fine.

Being "deeper in" or less will have little bearing on how it reads.

It looks like you have one of those complicated electronic gauges.


My old 25-year-old FULLY MECHANICAL ISSPRO has no marking below 300*F; the maximum reading is 1600*.

It stays at or below 300*when at an idle, or immediately when I let off the throttle; the response is immediate.

When cruising at a steady speed, with boost at around 5- to 7-PSI, it will read somewhere around 700*-ish.

On a grade, no trailer, steady speed, it will climb to about 1050* and level off until the grade is crested.

Add a trailer on the same grade and it will go on up to 1250*.


Steepen the hill or lay on the fuel and I back off when it gets past 1300*.

I am certain that, were I to keep pouring on the coal, it would peg the needle, providing the pistons didn't melt through.

Dropping a gear, thus increasing engine RPM will drop EGT a couple hundred degrees.

As soon as I release the throttle, the EGTs fall dramatically.

 

[dave186]

I would try a different probe. my next step would be to send the autometer back to whoever you got it from and tell them to get bent. I havent had an autometer gauge that worked worth a crap and sure as hell wont waste my money on another one. I have Isspro gauges in my diesel and they work flawlessly. I got a Stewart Warner boost/vac gauge in my gas rig to replace the autometer that never worked right and its also working fine.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

i see alot of guys putting there pyro in the manifold and yeah thats all fine and dandy but why not make it easy on yourself and put it in the down pipe it reads just as accurate and you can get the gauges from banks and know you have a quality gauge ...

Thermo-couples, or "probes", are installed either PRE-TURBO or POST-TURBO.

A post-turbo probe will read a more constant temperature and read "~about~" 300* lower than a pre-turbo probe.

One is merely guessing that the post-turbo reading is actually 300* below the actual pre-turbo reading; when, in actual practice, it could be as much as six-hundred degrees lower at times.

A pre-turbo probe yields a more instantaneous and realistic reading of actual internal cylinder temperatures.


Big truck manufacturers can get away with providing post-turbo probes on account of them having already tested the pre-turbo temperatures and knowing exactly what post-turbo differential to expect; thus, they can then post the maximum allowable pyrometer readings FOR THAT ENGINE/TURBO combination somewhere on the dash-panel or on the visor.

Most big trucks with post-turbo probes will post maximum allowable pyrometer reading at 900*.


For those of us who are tinkering with fuel-screws, intakes,exhausts, and turbos, a post-turbo reading could get us in big trouble real fast.

 

[RedHotNRollin]

mine doesnt do that it moves VERY slow... what do i do with the hole in my manifold then?

 

[RustyBolts]

I'd say just get a pipe plug or a bolt with the same thread size and pitch.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

mine doesnt do that it moves VERY slow... what do i do with the hole in my manifold then?

You should have tapped that hole either 1/4-NPT or 1/8-NPT; a common pipe-plug of the correct size will plug the hole.


If you return the gauge, make certain that the next one is MECHANICAL.

For what it's worth, regardless of manufacturer, all "type K" probes are interchangeable between gauges of one make or another; the only difference being some are 1/4-NPT, while others are 1/8-NPT; common pipe adapters can be used to make them fit either way.

It is not un-common for a probe to die of old age, usually from a hole eventually burning through it, in which case, only the thermo-couple need be replaced = about forty-bucks at a truck supply store.

 

[82F100SWB]

Sure sounds like you have a bad guage or probe, or possibly a bad spot/short in the wires to the probe. I've got an electronic Autometer(sport comp II) in my Dodge, it's coming up on 2 years old, and I haven't had an issue with it. I'd prefer to have a non electronic Pyro in there, but, this one stays until it gives me issues.
I can peg it, but, that has nothing to do with the guage...
If I was you, I'd try giving Autometer a call, they may be able to help you.