At the end of my wits... Help!!!

[icanfixall]

If the dash fuel light flickers.... That means you have a partial vacuum on the outlet side of the filter. This can mean bad filter. Line restriction (like in partially blocked changeover valve) Or failed lift pump.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Howdy guys!

Well, I got called in to work Sat and today... Just got home a little while ago...
No work tomorrow, so you know what that means... Just hope I can get it all done in one day... Should be able to...

Icanfixall, I suspect the fuel filter light is coming on like that on account of a blocked line... It is the reason truck stalls out when I switch to the front tank... Hope to fix that tomorrow...

In preparation for the new return caps and o rings, I took some 200 sandpaper and smoothed the edge of the lip of the cap, that is, the part where the o ring makes first contact... It was too sharp of an edge for my tastes, so what the heck, why not make it easier to slide the cap over the o rings.

It doesn't start with a square edge into the insides of the caps, instead there is a slight bevel the first 50 thousandths of the cap wall... Right at the top edge where the bevel starts, it was like an abrupt turn towards the bevel... I thought it would be better safe than sorry to lightly sand that abrupt turn to make it easier for the o rings to start...

Anyway, here is a picture of one of the caps that has been deburred... the one on the left is the deburred one... Of course I used compressed air to clean them up...

Further reports coming tomorrow...

 

[icanfixall]

That is exactly what I refer to about the flash area. I use an exacto knife to clean up this area for a smooth o ring penetration with plenty of lube...

 

[DaytonaBill]

Thank you Icanfixall for the confirmation.

The whole time, I thought you were referring to further in where the step sits... Past the return hole in the sides of the caps...

That was a good time for an epic facepalm...

 

[92LongBed]

iF you do take the FSV apart, drill out the rivets on the swedged side just enough to clear it, then punch out the rivet. use a#6 self tapping screw to put it back together.

hey old bull, i'm dealing with an air intrusion issue on my 92 f350 idi and I took my FSV off and it appears to have a bit of liquid inside the part where the motor operates. is this normal? i'm wanting to take it apart per your walk through but wanted to try and discuss a bit with you first. thanks

 

[hacked89]

hey old bull, i'm dealing with an air intrusion issue on my 92 f350 idi and I took my FSV off and it appears to have a bit of liquid inside the part where the motor operates. is this normal? i'm wanting to take it apart per your walk through but wanted to try and discuss a bit with you first. thanks

He’s been gone 4+ years

 

[92LongBed]

He’s been gone 4+ years

damn thank u for letting me know

 

[Old Goat]

There should not be liquid inside where the motor is. I assume Diesel?
There is the Chicom Electric motor and 2 printed Circuit boards as I remember.
The side that has the pipe nipp-le`s is the valve 1/2 of the FSV. maybe there is an "O" Ring leaking?

Most likely need a new FSV?

Goat