ARP stud install and engine tear down

[Jimmy Stewart]

Just wondering if they only go in hand tight and a Allen wrench can screw them in, why couldn't you put the heads on then the studs?

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Because there is not enough room with the motor in the truck to slide the heads over the studs. You’ll be licky if you can get one or 2 in to hold gaskets in place. It’s a PIA

 

[Randy Bush]

Because there is not enough room with the motor in the truck to slide the heads over the studs. You’ll be licky if you can get one or 2 in to hold gaskets in place. It’s a PIA

So you had to leave the head bolts in the head until you got it off? I have only pulled the drivers side one and that was not to bad.

 

[IDIoit]

Because there is not enough room with the motor in the truck to slide the heads over the studs. You’ll be licky if you can get one or 2 in to hold gaskets in place. It’s a PIA

that's what the centering pins are for

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

So you had to leave the head bolts in the head until you got it off? I have only pulled the drivers side one and that was not to bad.

I was able to get all the head bolts out when I pulled the heads.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Just wondering if they only go in hand tight and a Allen wrench can screw them in, why couldn't you put the heads on then the studs?

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There won't be enough roomto get the studs in the holes after the heads are on (a little bit different than

I was able to get all the head bolts out when I pulled the heads.

Yep. Without the heater box in the way you could.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

There won't be enough roomto get the studs in the holes after the heads are on (a little bit different than

Yep. Without the heater box in the way you could.

I was able to get all my original head bolts out with the heater box installed.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

WOW. Maybe I was thinking about push rods. It does seem like there were some models that you couldn't get all of the head bolts out with the heater box in place though.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

WOW. Maybe I was thinking about push rods. It does seem like there were some models that you couldn't get all of the head bolts out with the heater box in place though.

Ya, the head bolts came out but obviously the studs was a totally different story

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

So I’ve now got the driver side head studs torqued down to 80 ft/lbs. My question is if I plan on turbocharging this engine, what is my max torque I can apply to these studs/heads?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't know for sure, but I'd guess that you'd be ok at 100. The studs that I put in my 7.3 came from Justin. His instructions said to torque to factory specs so I did.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

Is factory 80 or 100? I’ve read so many different opinions that I have no clue. My directions from ARP say 80 but guys with turbos say up to 110...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Factory 6.9 final torque spec is 80. You can torque the studs higher, because they're much higher strength than the head bolts.

 

[DrCharles]

Is it possible to swap out head bolts for studs, one at a time? (rather than pull the heads in the truck, or even pull the engine)?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It's been discussed before in different threads. I wouldn't recommend it at all. 1.) I don't see how you would possibly clean all of the crud out of your bolt holes with the heads on. Trust me,there is A LOT of crud in there. 2.) It just makes sense, to me, to put new head gaskets while you're at it. I can't remember if you did pulled your heads off or not DrCharles.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

Ya I would think after all that work you would want to do head gaskets as well. It only makes sense to me. Plus as idibronco mentioned, there is a lot of #### in those holes.