Arduino Glow-plug Controller, Build & Walk-through

[divemaster5734]

They over engineered things because they were....well...engineers.

First rule of field engineering KISS.. Keep It Simple Stupid... While the more complex the system the easier it is to troubleshoot, as each component has a more specific job, but added complexity only creates more headaches.
I agree with your statement 100%, that said, I used a load test for the GP's, and was able to locate a bad one in seconds.

 

[franklin2]

If he wanted to measure the current draw, he could use the same piece the factory used. The z-bar piece of flat metal is their shunt. They measure the voltage drop across the z-bar and calculate the current draw from that. But as we all know, that doesn't work very well if you have wiring or GP problems. But if he used that in addition to the temp of the engine, he could use the temp of the engine as the priority for glow time. That might overcome the problems the factory unit has.

 

[CarbonHero]

I just came to this forum looking for solutions to my stuck DB2 IP pump plungers and stumbled upon this post..

I've done a few Arduino home projects using various sensors and relays with ESP32 and ESP8266 boards. Most of my projects were based on the online "Nerd" tutorials with some minor code modifications and customizations. The hardest thing for me was trying to get those little optocoupler relays to work switching DC loads. First, I made the mistake of trying to trigger one with a 3.3v logic-level ESP32/8266 board when in actuality they needed a minimum of 4.4v. (I just assumed because the board ran Arduino it should work!) Later, I also made the mistake of trying to use an IR520 Mosfet module, which is designed to switch AC circuits, not DC.

Also keep in mind break downs and part availability, Amazon is a week plus wait for me so a silly temp sensor failing isn’t as easy as walking into a parts store and getting a common temp sensor and most of the arduino stuff on Amazon/ebay/aliexpress is very cheap junk that barely works in your house never mind -40 to +200f temperature swings and harsh automotive environments.

Haha. This is so true. A perfect example are those cheap programmable LED timer-relay modules which are a proverbial crapshoot at best. There are some notable exceptions tho to the "cheap==unreliable" rule, like the Arduino DHT22 temperature/humidity sensor which I've used successfully for years and have proven to be very reliable and accurate (probably not quite to +200F, tho!). BTW, I use the cheap base shields (w/PS and pin breakout) for most of my projects. These have a built-in DC regulator that can (supposedly) tolerate up to 30v, but obviously aren't designed to dissipate the amount of power needed to safeguard this application.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the updates and thanks for all the great info so far! Back to my stuck IP plungers for now...

 

[TheHappyHacker]

I just came to this forum looking for solutions to my stuck DB2 IP pump plungers and stumbled upon this post..

I've done a few Arduino home projects using various sensors and relays with ESP32 and ESP8266 boards. Most of my projects were based on the online "Nerd" tutorials with some minor code modifications and customizations. The hardest thing for me was trying to get those little optocoupler relays to work switching DC loads. First, I made the mistake of trying to trigger one with a 3.3v logic-level ESP32/8266 board when in actuality they needed a minimum of 4.4v. (I just assumed because the board ran Arduino it should work!) Later, I also made the mistake of trying to use an IR520 Mosfet module, which is designed to switch AC circuits, not DC.

After reading some of the other feedback I decided to use the INA226 to measure current draw over the glow-plug circuit. Once I'm done breadboarding the circuit, it will be integrated into a pcb along with the power delivery, and breakouts for sensor input. also added a mosfet to trigger the gp solenoid, along with flyback diodes and caps mixed in to condition the power. Most of the basic schematics are complete, and will be pushed to the github page later today (finally....) I'll be reworking these into a pcb design in KiCAD for those who are allergic to soldering-irons.

Really glad that I made a private test-repo, as some of the bugs have been spectacular to say the least lmao
Huge thank-you to my buddy /BadCodes for jumping on board. (He's not on this forum yet to my knowledge, but will be soon)

The shematics, along with some generalized flow-charts, will be published to the public github page later this evening. We have also created a Youtube channel, and started working on an introduction video for the project. Working away on this as much as I can in my spare time, but am also pretty tied up meeting with buyers as I'm trying to sell my Trans-am. Once it sells, I will have ample time to dedicate to this, as well as fewer budget constraints.

Thanks again everyone, and I'll have more to share soon.

 

[ifrythings]

Just FYI, your going to smoke that INA226 on first power up, if you want to try a Hall effect sensor at least look at ACS772ECB-200, you’ll still be out of range on it but it won’t melt in front of your eyes.

 

[asmith]

Just FYI, your going to smoke that INA226 on first power up, if you want to try a Hall effect sensor at least look at ACS772ECB-200, you’ll still be out of range on it but it won’t melt in front of your eyes.

Dont tell him that.

@TheHappyHacker go ahead try it just make sure you have the camera rolling when you turn it on.


For clarification I have no idea what any of this means or what any of theses parts are, but it sounds cool and I cant wait to see how it works out. I also would just like to see it melt before my eyes.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Dont tell him that.

@TheHappyHacker go ahead try it just make sure you have the camera rolling when you turn it on.


For clarification I have no idea what any of this means or what any of theses parts are, but it sounds cool and I cant wait to see how it works out. I also would just like to see it melt before my eyes.

This post expresses my sentiment exactly. The real obstacle that hasn't came up yet, surprisingly, is this: where will he buy quality glow plugs to be operated by the contraption? As far as I know from several other threads, quality glow plugs are as hard to find as Bigfoot..... and I don't mean the Ford truck version.

So, why not engineer a glow plug that works, lasts, and doesn't swell?

Anyway, carry on, were all stoked for the "new way" of making a diesel engine fire. I personally pop the hood with the provided cable and lever, spay a shot of ether on the air filter, get in the truck and turn the key lock cylinder for a second or so until it roars to life, but I'm pretty primitive.

 

[david85]

So, why not engineer a glow plug that works, lasts, and doesn't swell?

I realize this is still blasphemy, but I am running Autolite 1115 glow plugs, which are self regulating (bough from rockauto). Same set for nearly 2 years and no issues. Tested each plug for 60 seconds before putting them in the truck. Typically glow for 5 seconds in the summer and 20 seconds in the winter. I think Bosch also makes one that fits the GM 6.5/6.5 series but I don't think it's quite a direct fit of our IDIs.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I realize this is still blasphemy, but I am running Autolite 1115 glow plugs, which are self regulating (bough from rockauto). Same set for nearly 2 years and no issues. Tested each plug for 60 seconds before putting them in the truck. Typically glow for 5 seconds in the summer and 20 seconds in the winter. I think Bosch also makes one that fits the GM 6.5/6.5 series but I don't think it's quite a direct fit of our IDIs.

You might have bought the only set every made on a Wednesday, lolol. But yeah, I gave up on them.

And hey, I believe Bigfoot is out there too. Probably hoarding good glow plugs.

 

[david85]

Huh, looks like rockauto only had three 1115's left. Just bought them all.

EDIT: although I do see listings on Amazon and other online suppliers. Never tried buying them local so I don't know how common they would be at you're typical NAPA or AutoZone.

 

[CarbonHero]

I'm getting confused now by the talk of melting components and z-bar shunts. I'll just have to wait for the schematic (which will probably make me more confused!

At least I'm getting a rough idea of how my inductive clamp-meter (ammeter) works from this discussion...which heretofore I'd never given much thought.

 

[franklin2]

I'm getting confused now by the talk of melting components and z-bar shunts. I'll just have to wait for the schematic (which will probably make me more confused!

At least I'm getting a rough idea of how my inductive clamp-meter (ammeter) works from this discussion...which heretofore I'd never given much thought.

Hard to see in this picture, but there is a flat shiny piece of metal going from the large stud to the point where the green "glowplug" connection is shown. This is the shunt. It's a calibrated resistance in the glowplug circuit. Of course it's resistance is very very low, but it is enough to cause a low voltage to build up across it. This voltage will vary depending on how much current is flowing through the shunt. The amount of current flowing through depends on how much current is flowing to the glowplugs.

The internal circuit of the controller reads the very small voltage across this shunt, and that is how it determines glow time for the plugs. Works great until you get a bad glowplug or a bad wiring connection in the glowplug circuit.

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[CarbonHero]

@ franklin2 - Much thanks for the clarifying this!!

It kinda looks L-shaped to me in the pic. BTW, this is the same exact pic I was looking at in another thread after doing some searching around here on Friday! (I have GM 6.2L/6.5L controller/relay, so this type is foreign to me.) Heretofore, my concept of shunts was that they were placed *parallel* to the load to be measured, but that obviously wouldn't work on a varying load (calibrated or not), which is the whole point.

The internal circuit of the controller reads the very small voltage across this shunt, and that is how it determines glow time for the plugs. Works great until you get a bad glowplug or a bad wiring connection in the glowplug circuit.

This interesting as it is clearly not just a "dumb timer" then that just activates a switch for a set amount of time before cycling off (like I would've assumed) but is actually checking for correct operation by measuring the current drain indirectly.. Definitely makes more sense!

 

[franklin2]

@ franklin2 - Much thanks for the clarifying this!!

It kinda looks L-shaped to me in the pic. BTW, this is the same exact pic I was looking at in another thread after doing some searching around here on Friday! (I have GM 6.2L/6.5L controller/relay, so this type is foreign to me.) Heretofore, my concept of shunts was that they were placed *parallel* to the load to be measured, but that obviously wouldn't work on a varying load (calibrated or not), which is the whole point.


This interesting as it is clearly not just a "dumb timer" then that just activates a switch for a set amount of time before cycling off (like I would've assumed) but is actually checking for correct operation by measuring the current drain indirectly.. Definitely makes more sense!

A dumb timer would actually be more reliable, but it would not have a way to compensate for a warm engine. I have a manual button and I am the "dumb operator" who decides how long to glow the plugs. Basically unless it's very cold, I do not glow the plugs at all if the engine has been running within a hour or two.

On many of the older Fords, 1986-dwn with a ammeter in the dash, they have shunts also, gas or diesel. In the wiring out near the alternator they have a shunt that can measure the current going to the battery and leaving the battery. They have a small wire on either side of the shunt and that goes into the ammeter in the dash, which is really a very sensitive voltmeter. Sad to say most of them do not give a useful reading, but there are some out there which actually work. Those are the guage that have "D" and "C" on either side.

 

[CarbonHero]

I pulled out my old "Haynes GM and Ford "Diesel Engine Repair Manual (2000)" which covers late '70s through the PCM controlled systems of the 90's. I didn't realize there were so many differences between not only makes/models, but also the design and operation through the years.

My '93 GM 6.2L controller doesn't appear have any means of sensing or measuring the current draw through the relay by way of a shunt, or otherwise. Oddly enough, there is just a direct feedback input on the controller which is directly connected to the main relay output terminal. It is interrupted by a temp switch which tells the controller that the engine is warm -such is the case when voltage isn't detected after a certain amount of time after switching on the relay internally. Haynes manual describes something about an internal op-amp pulling the relay output to ground under this condition. Sounds kinda goofy.

The Ford section describes the '94 system as incorporating a baro sensor in addition to a temp sensor to control GP operation. I can see adding a baro sensor to control timing/advance of the injection pump on electronic systems, but glow plug operation??